The expert guide to microneedling: From fading scars to boosting collagen
While a thorough skincare routine can work wonders for brightening and smoothing your complexion, when it comes to faster results – reclining in the doctors hair and undergoing a treatment will probably serve you better in the long run.
From profhilo and fillers to mesotherapy and there are no shortage of treatments, but one that is currently have a major moment is microneedling. An aesthetic tweakment that has been around for two decades, it ddresses issues from loss of firmness to smoothing acne scars and even reducing cellulite.
If you are considering microneedling, it's important you do thorough research and ensure you're visiting a practitioner that's experienced and trusted in their field. Below, we quizzed three leading doctors in the aesthetics space for your need-to-know guide on microneedling.
Meet the experts
Dr Anita Sturnham, aesthetic doctor and Founder and Clinical Director of Nuriss and Decree Skincare.
Dr Catherine Fairris- aesthetic doctor and founder of Wessex Skin Clinic and President of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine.
Dr Jessica Halliley, MBCHB(HONS) MRCGP PGDIPAES Aesthetics Doctor and GP
based in Nottingham and London. See her via Get Harley.
What is Microneedling?
Microneedling is a minimally invasive collagen induction treatment. It uses a device [or roller] containing many tiny sterile needles, that glides over the skin creating microchannels of intentional trauma. The depth of penetration is controlled by the practitioner and can be varied depending on the area being treated,' explains Dr Halliley.
'When the needles pierce the skin, signals are sent to your skin’s immune cells to tell them to activate their wound healing pathways. This results in the skin cells acting to ‘repair’ the injury and cells such as fibroblasts are activated to produce new collagen and connective tissue,' adds Dr Sturnham.
How do microneedling work?
'The microscopic needles used during the treatment stimulate the surface of the skin and depending on the level of your practitioner’s medical expertise, microneedling can also be used to penetrate into the deeper dermal layers. This encourages natural collagen regeneration and elastin formation by creating a controlled wound within the skin. The skin cells respond to this wound by recruiting cells called fibroblasts to repair the injury and this results in new collagen production. We call this type of treatment "collagen induction therapy:, which results in improved skin quality, tone and elasticity,' reveals Dr Sturnham.
'Studies show that microneedling can be as effective as laser resurfacing and chemical peels at stimulating collagen production. It is effective at firming the skin and as such is also effective at improving the appearance of stretch marks and cellulite, adds Dr Fairris.
What are the benefits of micrconeedling?
'The aim of treatment is to stimulate collagen and elastin within the skin,' reveals Dr Fairris.
'This results in overall improvement in the appearance of scars (surgical and acne), lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Studies show that microneedling can be as effective as laser resurfacing and chemical peels at stimulating collagen production. Microneedling is effective at firming the skin and as such is also effective at improving the appearance of stretch marks and cellulite.'
It can also be effective when combined with other treatments, such as exosomes. 'At my clinic we often combine microneedling with other energy based devices, such as Morpheus8, which combines needling and radiofrequency and we also use PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) which delivers growth factors extracted from your own blood, for enhanced results,' reveals Dr Sturnham.
How long does microneedling last?
Treatment results will vary according to the age of the patient, the health of their skin and lifestyle factors.
'I recommend that my patients have an initial course of 3-6 microneedling treatments to get a good initial visible result and then a maintenance programme of one treatment every 4-6 months or less depending on the original problem. Results will last longer when combined with other treatments and good quality skincare and sun avoidance,' says Dr Fairris.
How long can it take to results of microneedling?
If you're in a rush, then this might not be the treatment for you. Dr Sturnham explains; 'It can take several weeks to see visible results on the skin as the regeneration and repair. If your skin is actively inflamed or you are prone to pigmentation microneedling may not be suitable and your practitioner may need to prescribe products to ‘prepare your skin’ for needling.'
Is microneedling better than botox?
Whilst both microneedling and anti wrinkle injections are both used to rejuvenate the skin, they work through entirely different mechanisms of action.
Dr Sturnham explains; 'The former uses needling to stimulate collagen remodelling. This is a slow process and can take up to 12 weeks from each appointment to see the end results. Anti-wrinkle injections use a neurotoxin to stop muscle contraction, working in 5-14 days to reduce movement. The results are temporary and last around 12 weeks.'
'There is no collagen stimulation seen with botox, simply reduced muscle movement, which gives the appearance of reduced lines and wrinkles. Many of my patients like the ‘quick fix’ element of botox but I always advise them to combine injectables with methods that also work to boost collagen stores and repair damage,' adds Dr Sturnham.
Is microneedling safe?
As a rule yes. 'When performed by a trained medical professional in a clinical setting, microneedling is generally considered safe. However, when done in the wrong hands microneedling can leave you with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and worsening breakouts,' says Dr Sturnham.
'Immediately after your microneedling treatment, you may experience redness and sensitivity and your skin may look like it has mild sunburn. However, these side effects will normally subside within 24 hours of each session.You may also experience bruising after this treatment,' she adds.
There is a risk of skin infection from microneedling, therefore it is essential that the practitioner follows strict infection control protocols when delivering the treatment,' adds Dr Fairris.
What is the difference between at-home microneedling vs clinic-based microneedling?
At-home microneedling devices typically have shorter needles and are less invasive compared to professional clinic-based treatments.
'I am not a fan of home microneedling and advise my patients to steer clear and leave this treatment to the experts,' says Dr Sturnham.
Dr Halliley agrees adding that, ' their safety profile is not consistent and generally the devices are of poor quality. In-clinic microneedling is safe, as practitioners undergo specific training and are aware of how to alter the depth of the needles over different areas of the skin. The needles are also longer, so you get better results overall.'
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