Exosomes are the latest buzzword in beauty – here's why you need to know about them
While it may seem like there's a new trending ingredient in skincare every week, there are few that really get beauty insiders buzzing. But that's exactly what exosomes have done since scientists discovered that what they thought was waste cell material in the skin is, in fact, beneficial. Very beneficial, actually, as experts believe that these little internal communicators have the ability to take years off our face. Don't believe us? We asked the experts.
What are exosomes?
Whether it's for acne or pigmentation, coming to our skin's aid through treatments, products and lifestyle choices has become second nature. But little did we know we also had a helper on the inside delivering important messages and information to cells throughout the body, instructing them to act. “Exosomes are tiny extracellular vesicles or sacs released by cells into their surrounding environment,” explains Dr David Jack, a cosmetic doctor and surgeon. “They play a crucial role in cell communication and carry proteins, lipids, and genetic material that instruct other cells to behave in specific ways, encouraging them to regenerate and repair through activities like increasing collagen production or inhibiting excessive melanin production in areas of hyperpigmentation.”
With efficiency rivalling platelet-rich plasma (PRP), it's the specificity of exosomes that makes them so effective. “Unlike traditional growth factor treatments that might use larger, less specific biomolecules which can only signal to the surface of cells, exosomes can merge with target cells to deliver their payload directly inside,” Dr Jack says. “This allows for more precise and efficient therapeutic effects, potentially leading to better outcomes.”
What are the benefits of exosomes?
If your goal is to look refreshed with plump and glowing skin, then exosomes could definitely be for you. But Dr Marco Nicoloso, medical director of Ouronyx is quick to add that those who are starting to notice the hands of time on their skin will see the biggest difference. “As we age, our cells struggle to produce the proteins and enzymes necessary for maintaining healthy, supple, and balanced skin,” he says. “Exosome therapy helps by generating and stimulating new proteins within the skin, restoring balance and giving it a more youthful appearance. It's also great for those who may suffer from rosacea as exosomes reduce inflammation, revitalise dull skin, and help maintain hydration.”
Although exosome treatments and products can be advantageous for anyone seeking more flawless skin, renowned aesthetics doctor and entrepreneur Dr Barbara Sturm believes that they're particularly beneficial to those who have seen signs of ageing, sun damage, loss of collagen, damage from environmental factors, inflamed skin, scarring and hyperpigmentation. “Exosome technology is amazing for anyone who wants the next level of anti-aging support and superior skincare ingredient science,” she explains. “Adding exosomes into your skincare routine will likely show more of a result when the body's natural production of exosomes has already begun to decline, which is usually in your early 30s, and your skin is showing signs of sagging, dullness and a loss of elasticity. However, they will benefit anyone looking to address the common signs of ageing.” There's also evidence to suggest that exosomes can help with hair loss conditions by promoting follicle health.
What's better: exosome treatments or products?
Exosomes are still an emerging concept in the beauty sphere therefore treatments are reserved for specialist skin settings only, such as Dr David Jack's London and Edinburgh clinics, where he offers his ExoTech Exosome Therapy. Here you can expect to have pre-made exosomes extracted from damascene rose cells spread on to the skin before a microneedling device is used to create microscopic channels in the dermis of your skin, encouraging the product to absorb deeper. With little downtime (some redness will disperse within 24 hours), you can expect to see results within 48 hours, but collagen production in the dermis will increase by up to 700 per cent over the course of several months. Yes, you read that correctly!
Both Dr Jack and Dr Nicoloso advise seeking an in-clinic treatment to reap the rewards of exosomes, with the latter warning that they are “ineffective on their own, as they cannot be absorbed into the skin without prior microneedling or laser treatments”. This step is crucial, he adds, “because, despite their nanoparticle size, exosomes cannot penetrate the skin independently”. He does, however, go on to say that they can be used topically if used in conjunction with in-clinic treatments. “If you do want to use exosomes as an addition to your skincare routine and maintenance, I suggest getting a treatment and then using the topicals as maintenance at night, after a retinoid, and before moisturising. Exosomes can also help to increase the efficacy of other active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, peptides, and antioxidants,” he says.
While arguably more potent in-clinic, Dr Sturm, who boasts several exosomes products within her skincare range, has discovered a formula to stabilise exosomes so that they can, in fact, be used at home. “I created my Exoso-Metic collection with lab synthesised growth factors which dock to skin cells, helping to boost cell communication and signalling cells to initiate renewal and repair processes,” she says. “This supports the skin’s natural rejuvenation mechanisms resulting in supercharged anti-aging benefits, including enhanced firmness, smoother skin texture, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, improved skin tone, increased radiance and reduced pigmentation and age spots.”
As exciting as new skincare technology is, all the experts stressed the importance of finding a certified doctor to perform exosome therapy as it penetrates beyond the skin barrier. Another safety factor to flag is that mammalian/human derived exosomes are not safe for cosmetic use. As aesthetics expert Dr Sophie Shotter says: “If the product is derived from human stem cells, it is illegal in this country and should not be being sold or used here.” The lack of regulation in this country unfortunately means there are such human-derived products on the UK market – but “the reason human derived exosomes are illegal is because of the chance of DNA transmission; if the donor had a disease or any DNA issues, this could be transferred to the patient”. Ergo, in Dr Shotter's opinion – and ours – this is not a risk worth taking, “especially when plant-based exosomes work so well”.
Should you want to dip your toe into the world of exosomes first with a topical product, try these picks:
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