EXCLUSIVE: Viktor & Rolf Returns to Ready-to-wear for Fall 2025
PARIS — After a decade of absence, Viktor & Rolf’s ready-to-wear line is returning, starting with the fall 2025 season.
While couture is a laboratory for their artistic experiments, “a realm of ideas, of fashion as an abstraction” where they engage with the audience on the conceptual level, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren felt the moment was ripe.
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“After a hiatus of 10 years we feel the freedom to start elaborating some of the ideas as put forward in our couture collections, so that they can become a concrete part of people’s lives,” they told WWD in an email.
“It is about communication really. The visual language, of our couture, developed over a period of 30+ years speaks to a certain audience,” they continued. “With the ready to wear language we want to find new accessible ways of reformulating our ideas for an equally interested, hopefully slightly wider audience.”
The design duo decided in 2015 to curtail their women’s and men’s rtw lines to focus on couture, fragrances and special projects.
While a handful of commercial pieces have been released in recent seasons to slake the thirst of fans exclusively on the brand’s website, fall 2025 marks the formal return of a rtw offer.
Conceived as a translation of their couture playbook, the line will particularly focus on dresses, which will retail between 990 euros and 2,000 euros. In addition to the brand’s e-commerce, it will now be extended to a tight selection of multibrand retailers globally.
The duo’s move back into rtw was motivated by the attention their work garners. “We have a lot of online fans of the couture which shows us that there is an eagerness to be dressed by V&R, not just on the red carpet but in everyday life,” they declared.
Also playing a part was their experiences dressing women such as Róisín Murphy, Tori Amos and Tilda Swinton, whose style and spirit Snoeren and Horsting admire for their “creative, refined, cool, witty, authentic, confident” sensibility.
For fall, the duo pinpointed their spring 2002, fall 2003 and spring 2023 couture collections as the origins of the striking volumes, duplication effects, layering and other bows and ruffles they turned into a 17-look wardrobe spanning balloon trousers, multi-layered tank tops and denim.
Colors will span neutrals as well as dark berry, mint and sky-blue denim, while textiles include Italian silk satin and organza, Japanese tuxedo wool, silk-viscose floral jacquard and organic cotton denim. There will also be outerwear as part of a collaboration with Mackintosh.
The fall look book, shot by photographer Alessandro Furchino Capria, captures a model in the streets of Paris, in keeping with the line’s focus on everyday dressing.
Deliveries will be done twice a year, with one drop for spring and another for fall, aligned with the Paris Fashion Weeks in March and September. The brand also plans to go to market on the same rhythm.
In addition to couture and now rtw, the brand has the bridal Viktor & Rolf Mariage collection, sold at top wedding dress retailers; an eyewear collection, Viktor & Rolf Vision, made in Italy; and its fragrance business under L’Oréal.
Over the years, there were short-lived lines such as eveningwear-focused Soir and most recently advanced contemporary line Mister Mister, curtailed after the COVID-19 pandemic.
In February, the OTB Group, which owns a majority stake in the brand, renewed its collaboration with the Dutch design duo for the next five years.
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