Exactly how to do a DIY facial, according to top aestheticians
Professional facials are truly my favourite. I find them deeply relaxing and, because I'm prone to clogged pores and hyperpigmentation, I rely on them to keep my skin clear and bright. The problem is that pro facials can be both pricey and hard to fit into my schedule, which means I don't get treatments as often as I'd like. So to keep my skin glowing in between pro facial appointments, I do a weekly at-home facial with steps and product recs inspired by four of my favourite and most trusted aestheticians: Danuta Mieloch, Sofie Pavitt, Edyta Jarosz, and Shani Darden.
Keep scrolling for a breakdown on how to DIY the perfect at-home facial. Plus, info on how often you should do an at-home facial, if you should or shouldn't try extractions in a facial, and the best products to use during a treatment.
How often should I do an at-home facial?
All the aestheticians I chatted with for this piece said it's best to do an at-home facial once a week. "Maintaining a consistent at-home routine is essential for good skin," says Mieloch. But remember: At-home facials shouldn't replace professional facials entirely. Mieloch, Jarosz, Pavitt, and Darden all say it's ideal to get a professional facial every four to six weeks to keep your skin on track. "If that's not possible and you’re on a budget, I’d say once every quarter is the minimum to get a facial," adds Pavitt. "My motto is 'protect in summer and correct in the winter’ so we may do deep cleans and hydrating treatments in the summer, and more aggressive things like laser, peels etc. in the winter," she explains.
Should you do extractions in an at-home facial?
The general consensus among experts here is no. "While it may be tempting to perform extractions yourself during an at-home facial, I strongly recommend leaving this step to a professional aesthetician," says Jarosz. "Extractions require precision, proper technique, and sterile tools to avoid causing damage to the skin," she says, adding that "improper extractions can lead to scarring and infection."
Now if you're one of those stubborn people who is absolutely going to do your own extractions, despite being told no, there are three things to keep in mind so you don't totally destroy your skin:
Never use your bare hands. "Make sure your skin is thoroughly cleansed and softened, then squeeze the zit with a tissue, and immediately disinfect the area afterwards," says Mieloch.
Follow the three squeeze rule. "I give permission to pop if the pimple has a juicy whitehead. You can extract after a warm shower and use cotton buds to press around the spot three times at three different angles. If it doesn't pop after three gentle presses, it's not ready," explains Pavitt.
Leave cystic spots alone. "They rarely come to a head, so your best bet is to alternate between icing the area and applying hot compresses," says Pavitt.
How do I do my own facial at home?
My everyday skincare routine is pretty minimal (face wash, antioxidant serum, moisturiser, and SPF—that's it), so I try to set aside 45 minutes or so on Sunday nights to reset my skin before the week ahead. And while the time of day you give yourself a facial is totally personal preference, I like to do mine before bed so I 1.) don't have to apply SPF or makeup on top of my cleansed and moisturised skin and 2.) wake up super glowing in the morning.
Here's a step-by-step guide to how I DIY my own facial at home, with tips and product recs from the pros:
Step 1: Double Cleanse
If you wear waterproof sunscreen or heavy makeup, chances are a single cleanse with your regular face wash won't be enough to get your skin fully clean. Hence why all of the aestheticians I chatted with for this piece recommend starting your at-home facial with a double cleanse, which entails using a balm or oil cleanser or micellar water (this is Pavitt's preference for her acne-prone clients) followed by a gel, cream, or foaming face wash. The oil cleanser or micellar water will effectively dissolve makeup and oil on the skin, so that your regular face wash can really get in there and clean out your pores.
And if you're double cleansing with an oil or balm, don't rush that step! Take a full 60-seconds with to really work the formula into your skin using small, circular motions. Not only is the mini face massage more ~relaxing~, but it also makes sure that there's no buildup left behind on your face.
Step 2: Steam
There are sooo many benefits to heating up your skin with a little steam. It helps to soften all the gunk inside your pores, making it easier to unclog your pores. Plus, steaming your face makes your skin super-receptive to serums and moisturisers, taking your regular ol’ routine to the next level. You can use a facial steamer or you can hover your face over a bowl of hot water. Pavitt also says you can "use steam from the shower for softening the skin" if you want as well.
Step 3: Exfoliate
Next up: exfoliation (aka the secret to smooth, dewy skin). Our experts say you can't go wrong with a chemical exfoliator, like an at-home peel, pre-soaked pads, or an acid toner, that's formulated with AHAs, BHAs, and/or PHAs. These acids gently dissolve dull, dead skin cells and clear out your pores, resulting in smoother skin texture and a brighter tone.
According to Mieloch, if you're using an acid toner in the exfoliation step, the technique you use to apply it really matters. "Saturate a cotton pad with the toner and then apply it upward strokes, tapping and sweeping as you go for added lift and exfoliation." FWIW I've been doing this exact method with Biologique Recherche's p50 along my chin and jawline and have really noticed the little bumps begin to disappear.
And JSYK if you prefer to use a physical exfoliator, that's fine too. Just make sure it's not too harsh or abrasive and be mindful of using gentle pressure when massaging it into your skin. Pavitt recommends Dr. Loretta's Enzyme Polish—which I'm personally obsessed with too.
Step 4: Mask
Masking is an opportunity to target specific skin concerns, like breakouts, dullness, or dryness. "If you’re dry and irritated, you’ll want to go for a hydrating and soothing formula," says Pavitt. "Or if you’re very oily, a clay mask can be beneficial," she adds. Acne-prone skin types will want to look for a face mask with actives like benzoyl peroxide, sulphur, or salicylic acid. Just know that you may need more than one mask in your skincare arsenal, skin your skin's specific needs chance on on a daily basis due to things like weather, stress, diet, and hormones.
Step 5: Serum
Once you rinse off your mask, follow up with a serum. Because you've already exfoliated, steamed, and masked, Pavitt says it can be overkill to use a face serum with active ingredients. Her suggestion? A gentle hydrating serum to give your skin a plump, dewy glow. Look for a formula with hyaluronic acid, like the three below:
Step 6: Tools
Skincare tools and devices are having a moment in the beauty space, which means you've got plenty of solid options to choose from. Jarosz, Darden, and Mieloch all like LED masks. They're proven to minimise inflammation, fade discolouration, and stimulate collagen induction, so they're helpful for treating everything from acne and dark spots to fine lines. And unlike some other at-home skincare devices, you can't really overuse LED so it's hard to mess up and potentially damage your skin.
If you're looking to tone, tighten, and lift, Darden recommends using an at-home microcurrent device. The effects are temporary, but they're great for before a big event.
Step 7: Moisturise
Now it's time to seal in all the good stuff you just put on your face with a coat of moisturiser. "A good face moisturiser will lock in hydration and prevent water loss, leaving your skin supple and well-conditioned," explains Mieloch. You can finish off with a lightweight moisturiser or a thick, rich cream—whatever works best for your skin type and concerns.
Step 8: Eye Cream and Lip Balm
Last, but definitely not least, you'll want to tap on an eye cream and swipe on some balm. The skin around the eyes and on the lips is thinner and more delicate than the rest of the face, so keeping it conditioned with one of the picks below is a must.
Meet the experts:
Danuta Mieloch is a licensed aesthetician and founder of Rescue Spa in NYC and Philadelphia. She is also the founder of Danucera, a luxurious, high-quality skincare line for all skin types and tones.
Sofie Pavitt is a licensed aesthetician an NYC-based skincare expert aesthetician who specializes in clients with acne-prone and problematic skin. She is also the founder of skincare line Sofie Pavitt Face.
Edyta Jarosz is a licensed aesthetician at Shafer Clinic in NYC. Her customize skincare treatments that cater to individual needs have earned her a loyal following worldwide.
Shani Darden is a licensed celebrity aesthetician in LA. She is the founder of Shani Darden Skin Care and Shani Darden Studio, where she oversees an elite team of aestheticians.
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