Everything To Know About Invisible Locs, According To Stylists
Invisible locs are among many of the most popular hair trends to make a comeback this year. This fun, protective hairstyle is perfect for summer, as many people prefer short bobs to stay cool. But if you prefer longer locs, don't worry: This style can be done in different lengths, too. If you're unfamiliar with invisible locs, you're probably asking yourself what they are and how are they different from standard faux locs.
In short, invisible locs are made to mimic natural locs by using a flat twist at the root. With standard faux locs, the hair is crocheted in a way that's clearly visible, but the hair used for invisible locs is almost tucked away and worked into the rest of the hair. "Invisible locs are also done with Marley or Cuban twist hair, which is more coarse-textured to mimic the natural lock look," says Jada Pada, a faux loc stylist based in Brooklyn, New York.
Standard faux locs are heavier and cause more tension on the hair. They're best described as a single rope, whereas invisible locs are more like two ropes intertwined together, says Brittany Traore, owner and loc stylist at African Braiding Center in Washington D.C.
Meet the experts: Brittany Traore is the owner and loc stylist at African Braiding Center in Washington D.C. Jada Pada is a faux loc stylist based in Brooklyn, New York.
How are invisible locs installed?
Before getting your locs installed, your stylist may ask you to come with your hair washed with no product in it. Alternatively, some salons may be willing to do it for you for an additional cost. "I prefer my clients to come in washed with no oils in their hair for this specific style because some clients may oversaturate their hair with too much oil, and the oil and gel used for the look don't mix well together," says Pada.
From there, your braider will either box part or free part your hair. Once the hair is parted, the braider starts to flat twist it at the base by applying a conditioning gel. "Sometimes we like to add a little bit of extension to the flat twist to hold it together," says Traore. "So once we're finished twisting it in, we'll fold it up to make it look like a barrel at the end and secure it by burning it or putting on a rubber band."
After the locs are installed, your braider may apply moose or hairspray. They might also have you sit under a dryer for five to 10 minutes and add oil at the end. If done correctly, this look should last up to two months, depending on the texture of your hair. "If your hair texture is more on the looser side, it might get messy quicker as opposed to somebody with more of a kinky texture hair," says Pada.
As for timing, the whole process can take anywhere from three to five hours, depending on how thick your hair is and the length you want. That said, Pada recommends bringing some snacks, a book, and a fully charged phone with you to keep yourself occupied.
What are the pros and cons of a style like invisible locs?
As with any hair style, there are a few pros and cons to keep in mind before committing to the look. Luckily, there are far more upsides: For starters, the installation and maintenance process doesn't require a lot of product, meaning you won't have to worry about itchiness from buildup. It's also ideal for those who live an on-the-go lifestyle and don't want to style their hair all the time.
"It's very versatile," says Pada. "You can add curls in it to give it that boho effect, and you can get it in different lengths." Just keep in mind that while you may want longer locs, some stylists prefer to only do shorter bobs, so make sure you're in agreement on the final look beforehand.
And if you want to try natural locs someday, invisible locs are a great way to test them out. "They're perfect for anyone who is tender-headed because it doesn't pull on your hair," says Pada. "[These locs] have two twists at the top, and then the hair is added in underneath the flat twist, as opposed to regular faux locks, where you start wrapping at the root—there's no pulling with this."
As for the cons, Traore calls out that it may not be the best option for those with thinning hair. "Invisible locs already give a scalpy look because the flat twists are on the scalp," she says. Instead, she suggests trying regular faux locs so long as you're working with an experienced braider. When it comes to invisible locs, the ends of your hair can also slip out the bottom if it's not sealed correctly.
How to maintain invisible locs.
It's important to have an experienced braider do your hair, but how you maintain it can affect the longevity of the style just as much. That's why Pada suggests tying the hair up with a silk head tie and using a silk bonnet to keep the roots flat and neat. Once your roots start to puff up, you should either see your stylist for a touchup, or do them on your own at home.
"Some stylists don't do touch ups to avoid causing buildup, but moose and hairspray helps with flyaways," says Pada. Traore adds that you should also avoid getting your hair wet, as you may end up rinsing out the gel, causing your roots to poof up. Overall though, if you're unsatisfied with how you hair looks after a few weeks, it may be time to get them redone altogether.
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