Every Man Should Try Make-Up At Least Once – Here's Why
Scroll through your social feed and it won’t be more than a few swipes before you see a guy in make-up – even if you don’t know it. Yet, not long ago, a man stepping out in foundation might have raised an eyebrow or two. But the explosion in men’s grooming in the past decade has meant the days of guys (secretly) pilfering their WAGS concealer to hide a breakout are largely dead and buried with the metrosexual.
Now, in our brave new world of male expression, the likes of Pharrell, Little Naz X, BTS and those totems of modern masculinity, David Beckham and Harry Styles, are leading the way for Gen-Zers who care less about the label and more about the bottle (and specifically, what its contents can do for you).
And it’s not just rockers, K-poppers and red-carpet regulars that are painting their faces. In our time poor, stress-inducing age of more work, less play, late nights and air travel, the average Joe is realising that sometimes, you need a helping hand to look your best self.
'I used to fly a lot for work and had this stress redness thing going on. I wore my tired appearance like a badge of honour. One day, I saw my female co-worker after she came out of the bathroom at Heathrow and she looked like she’d been sleeping for five nights. I was like, "Why isn’t this available for me?",' says Lajjo Strand, co-founder of OBAYATY, a recently launched men’s make-up brand that uses highly engineered, fuss-free formulas for a clean, undetectable look and refillable metal packaging, that’s more like vintage lighters and mic amps than make-up bottles.
'The majority of men who use make-up want to achieve a natural, undetectable finish instead of more dramatic looks'
While some guys wear make-up looking to stand out, many are just looking to tidy up – because, as anyone who puts in the hours at the bench press knows, with self-improvement comes self-confidence.
'Like the majority of today’s men who use make-up, I have a more understated approach. I want to achieve a natural, undetectable finish while covering blemishes, instead of more dramatic looks. Today’s products are easy to get on with and not scary for guys to adopt as part of a daily routine,' explains Jake Xu, who co-founded SHAKEUP with his brother Shane, wanting to tackle the rosacea and breakouts that knocked their confidence as young men.
But if you’re new to wielding a concealer pen or contour brush, it can feel intimidating. Who do you ask for advice? How to you apply guyliner? Will I look like belong in a bordello? Being decent chaps here at Men’s Health (who do wear the stuff), we thought we’d help you brush up your skills.
Getting Started
If you’ve ever done a spot of DIY painting, you’ll be familiar with primer. It serves the same purpose in make-up, but instead of helping your emulsion cling to the wall in uniform fashion, it provides a base to help everything stay put.
'It’s not a must, but you want to use it if you start early in the morning and want your make-up to stay fixed for longer,' explains Karla Quiñonez León, a leading make-up artist and male groomer who has worked with rappers Skepta, Unknown T and Central Cee. 'It also covers pores and imperfections for a blurring effect,' she adds.
'After using serums and moisturisers, blot the more oil-prone areas with a clean tissue. Then, apply the primer with your fingertips, working from the centre of the face outward,' advises Jamie Coombes, Dior Makeup International Pro Artist, who has worked with Leonardo DiCaprio, Lucien Laviscount and Bill Murray.
You can also use BB cream – basically tinted moisturiser – to prime.
Laying The Groundwork
Foundation is fundamental to a men’s make-up armoury. This viscous, tinted liquid hides imperfections, creating a blank canvas of even, smooth skin. Choosing exactly the right shade is key, otherwise you’ll risk looking like you’ve been Tango-ed.
'The right shade should disappear into your skin. Test a few shades on your jawline and blend them in. Consider seasonal changes – in summer you might need a slightly darker shade if you tan, and a lighter one in winter,' explains Marco Antonio, make-up artist at Chanel, who counts Kit Connor, Jon Kortajarena and Rafferty Law as clients.
Foundation can be applied with either a sponge, brush or your fingers, which helps warm and activate the product. 'Remember that a little goes a long way. Start with minimal product and build gradually. Focus on areas that need attention, like concealing blemishes or dark circles,' advises Jake Xu of SHAKEUP. If you have facial shrubbery, steer clear of it to prevent claggy build up.
The Finer Details
Most guys' first foray into make-up stems from a need to hide nicks or erupting pimples. As the name suggests, concealer is your go-to tool for masking the under-eye fatigue of a late night, or a blemish that you’d rather not take into the office or out on date night.
'I’m a father of a four-year-old and I also run Horace, so sometimes dark circles show up. A concealer works wonders when I need to hide it,' says Marc Briant-Terlet, co-founder of Horace, which makes concealer for men in seven different shades. 'You need to go for a lighter shade than your skin, in order to cover the dark circle or blemish,' he explains.
'The back of your hand makes a great palette for managing how much you’re applying. If you apply it directly, you don’t know how it’s going to come up,' says Karla Quiñonez León, who also advises that if you’re of a darker complexion, to seek out black-owned or Asian brands like Shiseido, which cater to a wider range of skin tones. Apply beneath your eye and tap it lightly with a finger until it is absorbed.
Visual Assets
If eyes truly are the windows to our soul, then pepping up your peepers is sure to work to your advantage. Eyeliner for men when done well can emphasise your visual assets. Jason Mamoa, Johnny Depp and Zayn Malik all know this. Get it right and you’ll look smouldering and mysterious, get it wrong and you’ll look like a clown college castoff.
'If you’re using a classic black kohl eyeliner, apply it directly to the lower lash waterline then lightly smudge it with your ring finger,' says Jamie Coombes of DIOR. Eyeliner can also be smudged across the lid with a finger or brush for a shadowy, smoky eye, while eyebrow gels and pens can tame unruly caterpillars and darken them to frame your face.
And if you’re no shrinking violet, you might want to consider mascara. Clear varieties plump and lengthen the lashes, while coloured mascaras make a statement.
To apply, start at the root of the lashes and work up, wiggling the brush slightly as you go, to coat like a pro.
Buff Touch
The likes of Harry Styles, Bad Bunny and Tyler the Creator might get the credit today for kick-starting the trend for guys painting their nails, but Chinese emperors and Egyptian Pharaohs were dressing up their finger tips long before. What’s changed though, is that it’s not confined to royalty (pop, rock or actual) – it’s gone mainstream. What colour and finish to choose – whether it’s matt, gloss or metallic – is entirely up to you. It’s just another way to complement your overall look.
'I was one of the guys that was least expected to do it. One day, I just thought it would be cool to paint my nails green to match my suit. All my friends thought it was so cool – and it opened up a license for the rest of the guys to do it. It’s the same as matching your watch to your tailoring,' says Lajjo Strand of OBAYATY.
Brushing Up
A bad workman quarrels with his tools, but if you don’t have the right ones to hand, that’s understandable. While your fingers are among the most effective application tools you have, sometimes you need some additional kit to achieve the best results - especially when it comes to using powders or runny formulas. Application brushes and sponges can help distribute for more even coverage, while setting mists help everything stay put.
And taking off your make-up is just as important as how you put it on. Going to bed with a full face on can clog pores and cause breakouts, so invest in a gentle make-up remover and cleanser to dissolve waterproof eyeliner and foundation before you hit the hay.
You Might Also Like
