Elounda Mare: a family-friendly tranquil Greek island experience

This Relais & Châteaux hotel is a traditional gem in the low-key fishing village of Elounda, Crete. One of the first to be built in the bay, it’s become synonymous with tranquility and privacy, away from the large island’s bustling capital.

A walk along Mare’s sloping sea view path down to the beach will clear your mind and make your stresses melt away. The glistening Aegean sea seems to dance below you in time with the chirping of the crickets, while the soothing smell of rosemary is carried on a gentle breeze. It is a blissful place.It’s no wonder that Elounda’s pretty harbour has long lured politicians and A-listers. Back in the 1960s, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and Greek business magnate husband Aristotle Onassis put it on the map by visiting, and now it’s loved by Lady Gaga and Cate Blanchett — whose name jumps out in Mare’s guest book. Here’s why it should be on your radar too.

Where?

Elounda Mare is about an hour from Heraklion airport, stretching over a hilly cove with views over twinkly seas to Spinalonga — the former leper’s island.

A trio of Elounda group hotels (Elounda Mare, Elounda Peninsula and Porto Elounda) dot the coastline in the sleepy village of the same name, with Elounda Mare offering the most laid-back and authentic feel of the trio. It was the first to be built in the 1980s.

Style

Modernity is eschewed here for Cretan charm. Think sculptural rosewood staircases, local antiques and artwork, and beautifully aged marble floors. It’s tasteful and comfortable with some boutique touches, as well useful tech in the rooms (iPads for room service and bluetooth speakers in the bathroom for shower singers). Though it’s not for the Architectural Digest crowd — more those looking to feel they’ve landed in a local, lesser-trodden village than a hotel (a highly manicured one though, of course).

The bungalows have charming features such as corner fireplaces with sweet sculpted chimneys adding character to their white facades, which are climbed by pretty bougainvillea. Doorsteps are flanked with enormous terracotta pots and the room numbers are hand-painted with portraits of the hotel’s patron, Princess Ariadni.

The beach area is the hotel’s crown — a sandy cove below the chilled out beach bar and sweeping Yacht Club restaurant, overlooking Mirabello Bay. It is decked out with plush chairs, striped poufs and sun loungers shaded by chic rope parasols, which extend along the peninsula and beg to be Instagrammed.

Facilities

Mare has its own mini chapel with ancient relics built into it, as well as a jewellery shop and gallery in the mini square above the beach. It also has a mini marina, where you can hire jet skis, pedalos and kayaks.

As all of the villas have their own salt water pool, the beach never feels too busy. Though swim out into the turquoise waters and you’ll catch a lovely view out over the craggy neighbouring island. There is also a communal pool outside the reception building which is good for parents to keep an eye on kids.

Navigating the resort is easy, as the path down from the reception leads straight to the beach. Though do veer off the main track for the quieter peninsula which has a ladder down to the sea and is a more secluded place to watch the ocean dance from your sun lounger. There are also some gorgeous viewing point balconies with stone benches where you can sit and devour a book.

The hotel has a small kids club, and another very cool club at sister hotel Porto Elounda can be reached by buggy. Children can also experience an introductory programme at the Six Senses Kids spa, or be enrolled on a football programme during summer.

Extracurricular

Dosing and beach chilling non-stop may be tempting, though should you long for adventure, sister hotel Elounda Peninsula, just along the bay — with its buzzier bars and restaurants — is accessible by pontoon as of last year (a thrilling ride to boot), and the impressive Six Senses spa is a buggy ride away. Ask the team at reception and you’ll promptly be whisked to its doors.

Book in to enjoy its impressive menu of wellness programmes, techy treatments and Aegean inspired massages and facials, or a signature Six Senses treatments.

I had a holistic massage which was tailored to my needs (and knots). Aromatherapy oils and deft hands brought me to a blissful state, elongated by sitting with a ginger tea in the relaxation area afterwards, where a pretty stone sculpture hangs from the ceiling. Then I ventured between steam rooms (one of which has soothing infrared lights), dipped in the plunge pool and did a few laps of the indoor-outdoor pool.

The marble Hammam with a 19th century fountain centre piece, aged brass taps and 14th century antique finishes is worth at least a peek, though if you can book in with an alchemist for the 60 minute experience, it’s not to be missed. You’ll be treated to a scrub hand-made with Greek ingredients, as well as receiving a bespoke massage and a nourishing body mask to finish.

We can’t recommend a chartered ride on the classic yacht moored at hotel Peninsula enough. It is named after the family-run hotel’s matriarch, Eliana. Ride the waves out to nearby islands, sunbathe on the deck, enjoy fresh fruit platters and snacks onboard and generally feel like an A-lister for a few hours as other sailors pap your boat.

Food & drink

There are two main restaurants at Elounda Mare. Themed food nights get busy at the Yacht Club, while The Old Mill is a fine dining experience amid manicured gardens, where a pianist provides the atmosphere as the sun sets. It offers colourful Cretan fusion dishes, with beetroot amuse bouche starters, the most tender lamb dishes and a medley of desserts on their set menu, such as a deconstructed cheese cake. The lovely sommelier will pair Greek wines with the menu for you, from the hotel’s cellar.

Breakfast is at The Deck and it’s a satisfying buffet selection with breads, cereals and salad items, or eggs and other items from the menu. The brownies in the buffet room are well worth pocketing for later.

Then if you do fancy leaving the compound for the night, the Japanese restaurant, Sumosan at Peninsula is standout. Yes, every European hotel seems to have a Japanese outlet now, but I promise this really is a good one. It has the Michelin stars to prove it, and the end of pier location to remind you its fish is fresh as it comes. Me and my companions may as well have been batting each other’s hands away to grab the last piece of salmon nigiri and beef taco. And the puddings are something to write home about — a chocolate volcano cake with pistachio crumb was devoured.

After the sun has set, stroll past Peninsula’s two beaches and head to the beach bar for a night cap. There’s a tasty spin on the Paloma and the Chillin is very refreshing, while beer is the coldest you can fathom.

Which room?

All the bungalows have a pool and sun loungers, smart marble bathrooms with double sinks and rainfall showers. 39 was mine, and I’d recommend it for the Eat, Pray, Love vibes imbued by overlooking the chapel while eating room service.

In 2023, Elounda Mare revealed three new villas, making a total of 92 accommodation options. As well as large pools they come with a terrace and breath-taking views. The four-bedroom beachfront villa, Minoan Palace has its own gym room, a Bond-style TV which descends from the ceiling, dining area and a kitchen for a private chef.

Best for...

Experiencing the laid-back side of Crete. It will suit couples and groups looking for a more tranquil Greek island experience; craggy landscapes, easy going vibes and the option of first-class wellness experiences from Six Senses. Aquaphiles will delight in sea swimming, sailing and water sport options here.

The details

Rooms start at 350 euros (£296). eloundamare.com