Dispatches From Paris: Highlights From Haute Couture and Men’s Fashion Weeks
In the fashion world, 2025 has hit the ground running. Already there's been some key designer leadership shakeups (and plenty of rumors that more are imminent), designer debuts, anniversary celebrations (not just ELLE's!) — and it's still only January. The Paris shows that kicked off the new year were particularly newsworthy this season. Read on for the headlines from Paris Men's and Haute Couture Fashion Weeks.
Alessandro Michele makes his couture debut
Back in September, Michele marked a new, glamorously extroverted era for Valentino with his hotly anticipated debut show as creative director. His second show for the house, however, marked another milestone: his first ever couture collection.
As expected, Michele brought the drama on all fronts. ELLE UK’s fashion director Avril Mair described the show as ‘so much, in every sense’ — from the clothes, right down to the show format (pitch black with flashing lights in a tiered stadium seating arrangement): ‘Some of it was incredibly beautiful, some of it was historically inspired costume and all of it was entirely Alessandro Michele.’
Armani Privé celebrates 20 years
It was another season of celebrations for Giorgio Armani, who, after turning 90 last year, is now marking 20 years of Privé.
His SS25 collection, Lumières, was awash with the kind elegant gowns you expect to see on the red carpet come awards season (ICYMI Oscar-nominated Demi Moore was notably sitting front row), fusing delicate watercolour-esque prints and slinky silhouettes with intricate beading and embellishment.
Balenciaga’s Demna is honoured with France’s Order of Arts and Letters
The Balenciaga creative director was named a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters, receiving France’s most prestigious artistic medal in recognition of his significant contribution to fashion and the arts.
French Minister of Culture Rachida Dati presented Demna with the award, with actress and Balenciaga muse Isabelle Huppert giving a speech honouring the designer.
Peter Copping makes his Lanvin debut
The former Oscar de la Renta designer (who has also worked at Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton and Sonia Rykiel) showcased his first collection for French house Lanvin during Paris Fashion Week Men's AW25.
He described the co-ed show as 'deeply personal' and 'an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style', adding 'I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters.'
Glenn Martens joins Maison Margiela
News dropped that Martens has a new job: creative director at Maison Margiela. The Belgian designer, who rose to fashion fame at now-shuttered Y/Project and is also creative director of Diesel, succeeds John Galliano, who stepped down from the role in December after 10 years at the house.
Like Maison Margiela’s founder, Martin Margiela, Martens hails from Belgium and studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
Jacquemus returns to the Paris schedule
Simon Porte Jacquemus closed out Paris Fashion Week Men's with the perfect segue into haute couture week: his show, titled La Croisière, imagined a Jacquemus founded in 1950s Paris, bringing a thoroughly couture sensibility to the 15 year-old-brand's latest collection. The show also gave a sneak preview of the brand's latest tie-up with Nike.
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