A derm weighs in on the 'Botox in a bottle' skincare trend
Before we get into whether 'Botox in a bottle' is legit, we need to have a quick word on the term Botox.
A presciption medicine that can only be given out by licensed practitioners, the botulinum toxin used in anti-wrinkle injections is often but wrongly, referred to as Botox. Botox is simply the tradename of one of seven forms of botulinum toxin that are available.
Confusion happened because Botox, made by leading aesthetics giant Allergan, is probably the best-known brand of botulinum toxin as it was the first on the market in 1994. And just like the word Hoover, Biro and Kleenex, the brand name has become the generic term used.
No that's out of the way, here's the nitty gritty on whether the best anti-wrinkle serums can ever be considered 'Botox in a bottle.'
Meet the expert: Dr Anjali Mahto, MBBCh, BSc, FRCP, Consultant Dermatologist & Founder of Self London
Does Botox in a bottle really work?
The “Botox in a bottle” trend, which refers to skincare products claiming to offer results similar to injectables, warrants a sceptical view,' explains Dr Mahto.
'These products often promise to reduce wrinkles and provide a smoothing effect through topical application. The main reason for my scepticism is that Botox injections work by temporarily paralysing the muscles that cause wrinkles, which simply cannot be replicated through topical application. Skincare products, despite their advanced formulations, cannot penetrate deeply enough to affect the underlying muscle activity that Botox targets.'
'That's not to say there aren't key ingredients that can help smooth the skin. Retinol is a powerhouse, and there is great research to back up the prowess of peptides, too. Ultimately, though, serums and injectables just aren't comparable
Can skincare mimic Botox?
Dr Mahto says skincare can't mimic anti-wrinkle injections because they are fundamentally different in their mechanisms and effects.
'Botox and other anti-wrinkle injections works by temporarily paralysing specific facial muscles to reduce the appearance of dynamic wrinkles, which are caused by muscle contractions. This precise muscle intervention produces visible, long-lasting results that skincare products cannot replicate. Skincare primarily works on the skin’s surface or upper layers, and their effects are limited to improving hydration, texture and minor wrinkle reduction. They do not penetrate deeply enough to alter muscle activity or address the root cause of dynamic wrinkles.'
What is the closest thing to Botox over counter?
Again, for those who are still holding out hope, there just isn't a direct over-the-counter equivalent to Botox, soz.
However Dr Mahto explains that 'incorporating a well-rounded skincare routine that includes retinoids can be a beneficial approach to anti-ageing if this is a concern. Retinoids are known for their ability to stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can help to promote cell turnover and enhance overall skin health, which can provide noticeable improvements over time.'
Don't know your retinol from retinal, check our the WH's handy guide here.
Does Argireline work like Botox?
Argireline, a peptide commonly found in some skincare products, is often touted as a “Botox in a bottle” due to its supposed ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. However, it does not work like Botox.
Dr Mahto explains that 'Botox works by blocking nerve signals to specific facial muscles, causing temporary paralysis and thereby reducing dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle contractions. In contrast, Argireline is designed to mimic the effects of Botox by targeting the proteins involved in muscle contraction. It’s supposed to work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscles to contract, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles.'
'While Argireline may offer some improvement in skin texture and the appearance of fine lines by affecting the skin's surface and underlying mechanisms, its effects are much significantly milder (to the point where I don’t think it’s fair to compare them) and temporary compared to Botox. The peptide primarily works on the skin's upper layers and does not penetrate deeply enough to achieve the same muscle-relaxing effects that Botox does.'
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