This cruise is the perfect antidote to Christmas chaos

Once the bell towers of the Rhine Valley chime in the New Year, the frenzied celebrations of the festive season evaporate into the chill night air and a serene aura descends.

The mellow morning-after-the-night-before feeling which consequently envelops this region is one of the key reasons why river cruises have never traditionally sailed at this time of year.

Companies routinely mothball their ships during the quiet months of January and February, bringing them back into service as the new season dawns in late March, but the winds of change have started to blow along this European waterway since German-based niche line Viva Cruises introduced winter departures in January 2022.

The industry watched with interest and Viking Cruises, which dominates Europe’s waterways with a fleet of more than 70 river ships, followed suit earlier this year, offering new sailings between Amsterdam and the Swiss city of Basel that kicked off in early January.

With Viva repeating its sailings, and rivals AmaWaterways and A-Rosa having brought forward the start of their seasons from March to February, it seems this new trend could be catching on.

I’ve cruised Europe’s waterways at all other times of year – last sailing on the Rhine in the summer heatwave of 2022 when water levels dropped to historically low levels – so I was interested to see how this out-of-season alternative compared.

I confess, I wasn’t relishing the prospect. I imagined dull and dreary visits to riverside towns and cities bereft of atmosphere, lacking the warmth of Christmas markets that always brings cheer to the most dismal days.

Initial signs weren’t encouraging as I boarded Viking longship Viking Tialfi in Amsterdam, just a few days into the new year last January – under dark skies and incessant rain – for our sailing to Basel. It was miserable. But after a few hours, the downpour dried up and upon walking into the city, its vibrant buzz lifted my spirits.

During the nine-night voyage, I was surprised and relieved at how little the weather conditions (which had been my biggest fear) negatively impacted my enjoyment.

Upon sailing through the Unesco-protected Rhine Gorge – one of the highlights of Rhine sailings, with precipitous slopes crowned by a succession of craggy castles – it even started snowing, which added an ethereal touch to the dramatic landscape.

As the week progressed the clouds were chased away by dazzling blue skies and frost-filled days that beautifully showcased the medieval grandeur of Cologne, along with historic Heidelberg and Speyer.

Admittedly, in such icy temperatures, walking tours could be particularly glacial, making thick coats, gloves and hats essential. I rued not bringing hand and foot warming pouches too, so indulged in restorative hot chocolates that proved to be an ideal antidote to the cold – especially as the coffee shops were so peaceful and uncrowded.

It was, in fact, this very absence of tourists – and the inevitable queues – that proved to be the holy grail of this out-of-season sailing. We revelled in the rare luxury of empty streets, transformed from the hectic summer peak and Christmas market rush into tranquil havens. Gradually, my fellow passengers and I were transformed too, slowly softening, shaking off the frantic festive season just gone as we strolled in these peaceful places.

“You’re lucky to be here now, it was crazy a few weeks ago,” said one of the staff in Heidelberg’s deserted Christmas shop (normally so jam-packed it has to implement a one-way system).

Everywhere we went, it seemed we were the only tourists, even in lovely Cologne and Strasbourg – as sleepy as I’ve ever seen it, the winding streets through its historic Petite France district wonderfully deserted.

It was as though the city had slipped into a sort of hibernation – and yet, most shops and attractions were open as usual, with locals going about their daily business, giving an authentic flavour of everyday life that normally vanishes under the weight of the crowds.

There was barely a queue to enter the city’s Notre-Dame Cathedral and when, on a whim, I decided to watch the daily midday show about its renowned astronomical clock, there was plenty of space to take pole position.

It was a similar story at the absorbing Second World War Freedom Museum near the Dutch city of Nijmegen, where there wasn’t just a distinct lack of queues, but almost no other visitors full-stop.

In the main tourist hotspots a welcome – and unexpected – side-effect of the empty streets was an absence of pickpockets, who last year were particularly troublesome in Strasbourg. Without a mass of potential victims to target in early January, they stayed away.

Being the only ship in town meant Viking Tialfi was able to take prime position when it came to most docking spots, and also ruled out the growing curse of double-docking (when vessels moor up alongside each other, and you find your riverside view abruptly obscured by someone else’s cabin).

Cruising at such a traditionally quiet time of year also brings the related bonus of greater availability of air seats and hotel rooms, and at lower prices too – a key draw for many of the Americans on-board who accounted for the lion’s share of guests, though there was a sprinkling of Brits, Canadians and Aussies. And somehow, our ship felt even more welcoming than usual each time we returned from our shoreside sojourns – especially when the crew greeted us with warming drinks.

I returned feeling that I had discovered the real character of each place we’d visited – the removal of the crowds somehow like the pulling back of a veil. What a wonderful thing it is that more cruise companies are discovering this long-neglected season: I will be using my new remedy for the chaos of Christmas to full effect once again this year, and you should, too.

Essentials

Sara Macefield was a guest of Viking (0800 319 6660) which offers nine-night Treasures of the Rhine sailings between Amsterdam and Basel, with prices from £1,995pp, departing on January 4, 13 and 22, 2025.