Copenhagen and Berlin rub shoulder pads with the big four fashion weeks

In a former multistorey car park, models in elegant tailoring walk the catwalk soundtracked by Kate Bush. It looks and sounds like one of the four most famous fashion weeks: London, Paris, New York or Milan.

But this is a cloudy February night in Berlin. The brand, GmbH, showed its designs in Paris this time last year, but it has come back to Berlin for a second season, the headline act for a home crowd.

While the big four fashion weeks remain the undisputed champions, a host of other European cities are vying for a spot on the industry’s calendar. Foremost among them is the Danish capital, Copenhagen, which kicked off its own event late last month, after the menswear and couture shows in Milan and Paris.

What began as the merging of two small Danish trade fairs in 2006 is now regularly referred to as the “fifth fashion week”, due to its influence in the industry and beyond. It attracts buyers from leading global luxury chains, fashion directors from global publications such as Vogue and a string of influencers.

Berlin fashion week, which finishes on Monday, might not be there yet, but it’s growing. Fashion Council Germany (FCG) took the reins in 2023 and, in the words of CEO Scott Lipinski “decided to reset”, successfully rebranding from its earlier incarnation as the more corporate Mercedes-Benz fashion week. Venues such as churches, train depots and the hallowed halls of world-famous nightclub Berghain have all been commandeered for shows.

GmbH’s return to Berlin was, according to one of its two designers, Benjamin Huseby, for “pragmatic reasons” – the FCG offered support and a grant to put on a show in the city. But it was also a welcome chance, as a Berlin-brand, to “connect with our community”.

Alberto Calabrese is a contributing writer for Vogue Italia who has travelled to fashion weeks in Prague, Helsinki, Kyiv, Lisbon, Porto and Budapest. There is, he thinks, a logic: “Showcasing in a place that is intimately linked with your culture, heritage and upbringing is crucial to let these creatives present something that feels really authentic.”

Another Berlin-based brand, Richert Beil, is a case in point. It’s founder, Michele Beil, said: “You can see the roots in our collection.” Their leather and latex clothes fall squarely within the city’s aesthetic; the political message felt apt, too.

For the headliners, these alternative fashion weeks offer a chance to be bigger fish in a smaller pond. In Paris, said Huseby: “You’re up against all these huge conglomerates, fighting for attention in a very packed schedule.” According to Beil: “Berlin fashion week is kind of defining itself at the moment. [It’s] super nice to be here … it opens new doors to be creative and stand for something.”

Unlike many of the globally famous brands that dominate the big four and are often owned by large conglomerates, some of the smaller, independent designers at alternative weeks can use their platforms to speak without boardroom constraints. In Copenhagen, Alectra Rothschild, founder of Masculina, used hers to highlight anti-trans violence. Rothschild, who is a trans woman, opened the show with a recording of Donald Trump declaring an executive order allowing “only two genders, male and female, in the US”.

The GmbH show took place hours after a protest against the rise of the far-right, anti-immigrant Alternative für Deutschland party had taken place in the city. While not explicitly political in the way of some of the brand’s past shows, it was, according to the designers backstage, “a collection of mourning” in troubled times. Jumpers read “Refuse to trade with the enemy” and models carried prayer beads. Earlier in the day, Melisa Minca gave guests a revolutionary pamphlet at its part-rally, part-party, part-fashion show. At the Lueder show, a “Men are so back” vest got a guffaw from the usually poker-faced front row.

Some of these smaller fashion weeks also place sustainability at the heart of what they do in a way the big four do not. Since 2023, Copenhagen has insisted that 60% of collections must be made from certified materials or deadstock fabrics; banned fur and feathers; and required proof that supply chains provide fair and safe working conditions. Cecilie Thorsmark, the CEO of Copenhagen fashion week, used this year’s opening ceremony to highlight the US’s withdrawal from the Paris climate agreement, saying: “Change is not optional. It’s essential.”

Thora Valdimarsdottir, co-founder of Rotate, one of Denmark’s hottest labels, says Copenhagen’s focus on “sustainability, innovation and inclusivity … really sets them apart”.

This season has also seen Berlin fashion week begin to implement the same sustainability requirements as Copenhagen in a pilot. From next year, only those meeting the standards will be eligible. But already several brands, such as Palm Wine Ice Cream and PLNGNS, create with sustainable practices in mind.

There are benefits at a city level, too. According to Lipinski: “We can see the impact in Berlin with the rise of new brands … It’s a barometer indicating that Berlin and the fashion week are gaining more economic value.” In social terms, it can also be a boon. Speaking at the opening dinner and referencing the current political climate, Franziska Giffey, Berlin state senator for economy, energy and enterprise said that for her, the week is a marker “of a tolerant society”.

Of course these alternative fashion weeks are not always going to win over the big four. Last year, Copenhagen lost one of its star brands when Ganni decided to show in Paris. It followed Cecilie Bahnsen, which decamped to the French capital in 2022. Both are a loss to Denmark, but homegrown brands making it in Paris or Milan proves Copenhagen’s success in nurturing designers. Ditte Reffstrup, creative director at Ganni, said the brand “wouldn’t be what we are today without Copenhagen fashion week”.

While Huseby doesn’t discount showing in Paris again, he believes the most important thing for the likes of Copenhagen and Berlin is that they don’t try to emulate the other fashion weeks. “These cities have a unique character and a long history,” he said. “You have to harness what’s really unique about that place.”