'Challenges Along The Way Have Only Made Us Stronger': Caroline Rush On Fashion Week's Future
It feels fitting that British ELLE has marked the same milestone as London Fashion Week did last year — turning 40 is no mean feat. Both have grown up together and evolved through a rapidly shifting fashion landscape. I like to think that the challenges along the way have only made us stronger.
I, too, am marking my own personal milestone. After sixteen years helming the British Fashion Council (BFC), this season will be my final London Fashion Week as CEO before passing over the baton to the brilliant Laura Weir. Inevitably, I find myself reflecting on the incredible journey this industry has taken over the past four decades and, perhaps more importantly, where it is headed next.
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The BFC was born out of the need to host a London Fashion Week worthy of competing on the world stage. It exists to globally amplify creative talent and provide a thrilling showcase for designers as well as affirming London’s position as a crucial cultural capital.
London Fashion Week has, of course, significant impact beyond fashion — it’s an opportunity for designers to tell stories of their heritage, to bring their vision to life through collaborations with musicians and artists, as well as drive business and connections.
Our reputation for creativity, innovation and talent wouldn't exist without the amazing community behind the scenes. I'm talking about the stylists, writers, artists, photographers, business leaders, marketeers, producers, designers, assistants, makers, doers and fixers who make it all possible.
By its nature, London Fashion Week has changed. It’s still absolutely critical as a platform for brands to raise their profile, secure sales and for the industry to come together, but we must be realistic about the state of the British fashion scene. It is undeniably tough at the moment. Our community is under serious pressure and real threat.
The UK fashion industry is facing the reality of challenges and barriers including uncertain trading conditions, lack of tax-free tourist shopping, key retailers closing, the ongoing impact of Brexit and the cost-of-living crisis which has seen a significant increase in energy, material and manufacturing costs.
Having worked for years with designers, retailers, partners and the creative community at large, I can think of no better group to navigate the challenges we are facing in the UK and the global challenges for our broader industry. London, after all, is known for its innovation.
Further support from the government is crucial. I would like to see it working with the BFC further to increase access to finance to help our designers and brands to deliver on their growth promise. It’s imperative that the government reinstate tax-free shopping — this would immediately breathe confidence into the industry and that in turn will have a positive impact on our designer fashion community. It cannot be stated enough — we need this back.
For our part, we’re dedicated to making sure our designers can leverage as much as possible out of London Fashion Week. Through our International Guest Programme, we’re bringing in key buyers and tastemakers from around the world — who, essentially, bring with them significant spending power. We’ve also secured another £1 million in government support for our BFC Newgen initiative which enables incredible emerging designers to showcase at London Fashion Week next season, as well as access business mentoring. (I’m also incredibly thankful for our principal partner, 1664 Blanc, which last year supported designers Aaron Esh, Charles Jeffrey and Tolu Coker directly.)
Really excitingly, this season we are launching our very own pop up shop! And it’s very good. Curated by ex-Browns buyers, the super duo Ida Petersson and Lewis Bloyce, The London Fashion Week Shop, will host talks and workshops, and stock incredible archive pieces from favourites including (drum roll, please) 16Arlington, Ahluwalia, Bianca Saunders, Completedworks, Conner Ives, Helen Kirkum, Johanna Parv and Saul Nash.
There’s always more work to do; the future of British fashion depends on designers getting the support they need to thrive and drive their businesses forward. The industry is built on talent, resilience and innovation. We have everything we need to remain a global leader, but it won’t happen without continued support. As I step down, this is my plea: please keep supporting our incredible designers, we want to ensure that London remains the envy of the world for its fashion and creativity. But we can’t do that alone.
The London Fashion Week Shop will run from Saturday 22nd to Monday 24th February, at 245 Regent Street.
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