The 1970s fabric making a comeback this autumn – and how to wear it
Wool, leather and shearling are all mainstays of our autumn and winter wardrobes thanks to their warmth and durability. After all, we need pieces that will not only keep us cosy, but will also withstand a sudden downpour.
Yet the style set has decreed that another fabric is essential this season. Suede has been spotted on the front rows at the recent merry-go-round of fashion weeks, as well as on the runways themselves for AW24, courtesy of Gucci, Ralph Lauren and Miu Miu. The 1970s staple is back in a big way, via skirts, dresses and jackets.
“Aside from its soft and tactile appearance I love the versatility of suede,” says suede fan and vintage expert Clare Lewis, founder of Retold Vintage. “It can so easily be dressed down with denim or elevated for a more luxe look teamed with tailoring. As a naturally breathable fabric this also makes it a much lighter alternative to leather meaning it’s a beautiful transitional piece in your wardrobe.”
Alongside the designer versions, there is also a lot of suede on the high street at the moment, with a plethora of blazers and cropped jackets at Zara, Massimo Dutti and John Lewis. Sezane’s Will Jacket, an oversized shirt that is available in mustard, camel and khaki suede, has been a bestseller for the brand, worn by everyone from Sofia Richie to the Princess of Wales’s sister-in-law, Alizee Thevenet.
Suede blazer, £229, Zara
Suede skirt, £199, John Lewis; Suede skirt, £299, Massimo Dutti
Meanwhile Rixo has a suede jacket in its new season offering, featuring a collar and daisy appliqués. “Suede has a softer, more feminine feel than leather, and Rixo leans to that aesthetic every season,” explains Orlagh McCloskey, Co-Founder and Creative Director. “It’s such a good transitional staple, and the brown hues of suede are our go-to for layering from winter all the way through to summer.”
If you don’t want to take the plunge with a jacket or coat, then another option is a suede skirt or pinafore dress, layered over an embroidered blouse or polo neck.
Suede applique jacket, £350, Rixo
“A way of adding suede into your wardrobe without fully committing to a jacket, a skirt or dress can give life to pieces you already own,” advises stylist Julia Brennard. “A suede midi skirt can be an autumn staple. Wear with a t-shirt and kitten heels for warmer days or a chunky jumper and knee high boots for colder weather.
“Jacquemus has an amazing bold red one with a matching jacket for the more daring. If you’re opting for suede pinafore dress then I would say layer it over a polo neck and pair with loafers. Both these go well with the transitional trench coat which by now you should have in your wardrobe - just watch the length, too short could feel out of proportion.”
As suede is such a heavy-duty fabric, it has a remarkably long shelf life, if looked after correctly. That means that as well as the high street and designer versions, there are also loads of great preloved suede pieces out there too, as many have clearly noted. eBay searches for “suede jacket” have increased by over 260% since July.
“There is so much suede still out there waiting to be found,” says Lewis. “Definitely explore your local charity shop, vintage store or online reseller for options.”
Despite its relative heaviness, suede is renowned for staining, making it a tricky item to integrate into your wardrobe at this time of year. So are there any ways to mitigate any damage?
“Investing in a good suede brush is a good place to start - it’s great at removing light dust and dirt as well as maintaining your suede’s lustre and soft texture,” explains Lewis.
“Preempt any wear and tear with a spray protector and for serious marks and stains I would use a specialist dry cleaner who will be able to advise and rectify the situation without causing further damage. If you have a suede piece that has got holes or tears I can highly recommend The Seam and Sojo who have a broad range of skilled makers on hand to help.”
It could also be worth investigating suedette options too, which are often more affordable and prolific on the high street. As a synthetic alternative to true suede, it is stain and water resistant, and can therefore be thrown on and worn more easily throughout the winter – though it is lighter and not as warm.
Suedette pinafore dress, £70, Monsoon
Another problem is colour fade, so avoid storing suede in direct sunlight for long periods of time. “We store our vintage suede hanging in breathable dust bags and we keep away from direct sunlight to avoid colour fade,” says Lewis.
And a further word of caution: suede can rub off easily, so don’t layer a terracotta hued jacket over a white shirt if you don’t want to end up with orange marks all over it.
