The best pub in every English county
It used to be easy to make yourself unpopular wherever you went in England. Suggest the local football team was congenitally incompetent or cast aspersions on the abilities of the region’s fish friers, say, and hackles would be raised. Pronounce the local pubs rubbish, from the ale to the atmosphere, though, and you’d be absolutely guaranteed a barney.
The world has changed, but this is still a pretty reliable way to start a row in all four corners of the realm. It might be considered risky, then, to compile a list of the best pubs in each of England’s 48 ceremonial counties, but this selection is based on years’ of assiduous research – and some local intel, where needed. That said, sorry if I’ve missed your much-loved local – please share it in the comments below.
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North
Cumbria: The Black Bull Inn, Coniston
This 400-year-old coaching inn is the perfect base from which to tackle the old Man of Coniston, the Cumbrian mountain which towers over the village. It’s also handy for its proximity to Coniston Water, the lake where British daredevil Donald Campbell broke the world water speed record before dying in a crash in 1967. Campbell is commemorated by The Black Bull Inn’s most famous beer, Bluebird, which is named after his boat.
1 Yewdale Rd, Coniston LA21 8DU
Lancashire: Black Horse, Preston
Located in the heart of Preston, The Black Horse is grand in the best tradition of late 19th-century pubs, boasting not just a curved ceramic bar but also mosaic floors, etched glass, and an extravagant U-shaped, stained-glass decorated seating area known as ‘The Hall of Mirrors’. The atmosphere reflects the exuberance of the decoration.
166 Friargate, Preston PR1 2EJ
Greater Manchester: The Britons Protection
Come for the tiled corridor, with its vivid images of the Peterloo Massacre, stay for the atmosphere. In a city with more than its fair share of excellent places for a pint, The Britons Protection gets the nod because the back room, with its padded bench seating, is one of my favourites. Manchester has changed a lot in recent years, but happily The Britons Protection hasn’t - yet.
50 Great Bridgewater St, Manchester M1 5LE
Merseyside: The Roscoe Head, Liverpool
Landlady Carol Ross fought for ten years to buy this pub and save it from potential closure, and we should all be grateful. The Roscoe is small but wonderful, with four rooms, good beer and pies, and, invariably, excellent conversation. There are more physically arresting pubs nearby - Liverpool is blessed in that regard - but none of them beats The Roscoe Head.
24 Roscoe St, Liverpool L1 2SX
Cheshire: The Castle, Macclesfield
The Castle had reached a state of semi-dereliction when business partners Paul Harrison and Tim Broster took it on a few years’ back, but a huge amount of hard work has returned it to its former glory. Reopened in 2021, this is one of the cosiest pubs in England: the Taproom at the front, for example, has space for about eight customers.
29 Church St, Macclesfield SK11 6LB
Northumberland: The Ship Inn, Low Newton
Christine Forsyth has been running The Ship, which overlooks the beach at Low Newton, for 25 years. In that time she’s moulded it into the sort of place that appeals to everyone. Good food, local beer, regular events, a cosy and welcoming environment - it’s not brain surgery, but it does take a lot of hard work.
Low Newton-by-the-Sea, Alnwick NE66 3EL
Tyne and Wear: Free Trade Inn, Newcastle
Boasting a tremendous view along the Tyne towards Newcastle’s city centre, The Free Trade inn is already one-up on most pubs - but there’s a lot more to it than that. Or rather, less. Simplicity is the key here, with great atmosphere, good beer and some creative graffiti in the loos adding up to a perfect pub experience.
12 St. Lawrence Rd, Newcastle upon Tyne NE6 1AP
County Durham: Grey Horse, Consett
Even by local standards, the Grey Horse is a welcoming place, and a must for anyone visiting this old steel town (such as those taking the coast-to-coast cycle route, which passes nearby). Beers are brewed on-site by Consett Ale Works and there’s a choice of cosy rooms in which to enjoy them.
115 Sherburn Terrace, Consett DH8 6NE
North Yorkshire: Blue Bell, York
You know where you are at the Blue Bell. All the beer comes from Yorkshire, and there’s a (not very long) list of rules to abide by, the most important of which is not to turn up in a big group, because the pub’s very small. York has plenty more good pubs, though, if you do find you don’t fit in.
53 Fossgate, York YO1 9TF
West Yorkshire: The Corn Dolly, Bradford
With Bradford City memorabilia on the walls, a blood-red carpet and Tim Taylor beer, the Corn Dolly is very West Yorkshire. The Corn Dolly was once The Wharf, a reference to the nearby (and now long-gone) Bradford Canal. Whatever the name, it’s an excellent pub.
110 Bolton Road, Bradford BD1 4DE
East Riding of Yorkshire: W M Hawkes, Hull
This marvelously-named pub - which pays tribute to William Hawkes, the former gunmaker who operated from this site in Hull’s Old Town - is the perfect spot for a cosy pint of well-kept beer. It’s only been a pub since 2012, but it feels a lot older in the best possible way.
32 Scale Ln, Hull, HU1 1LF
South Yorkshire: Kelham Island Tavern, Sheffield
Sheffield is frequently described as England’s finest pub town (often, it must be said, by people from Sheffield) and I’m not going to quibble. Probably its most famous pub is the Kelham Island Tavern, which sits amidst the remnants of Sheffield’s industrial past in the north of the city centre. Always a good spot for a pint and a pie.
62 Russell Street, Sheffield S3 8RW
Midlands
Shropshire: The Rose and Crown, Ludlow
Run by Shropshire brewery Joules, The Rose and Crown is a treat even by Ludlow’s elevated standards. It’s a symphony in dark wood, with beams, oak flooring and parquet. Great claims are made for its antiquity, and it certainly feels the part. This is deepest England.
8 Church St, Ludlow SY8 1AP
Staffordshire: Tamworth Tap
Staffordshire is chockablock with great pubs, but The Tamworth Tap has won CAMRA’s pub of the year contest twice in recent years, and for good reason. Friendly staff, superb beer, a sprawling garden over which Tamworth Castle looms, plenty of cosy nooks in which to sit - and, most importantly of all, a sense that locals of all shapes and sizes regard this as the best place to drink.
29 Market Street, Tamworth B79 7LR
West Midlands: The Vine Inn, Brierley Hill
The Black Country has more high-quality pubs than pretty much any other bit of Britain. The Vine Inn wins out because it’s handsome, good value, and, most importantly, is attached to one of England’s great old breweries, Batham’s. The facade is inscribed with the Shakespearian line, ‘Blessing of your heart, you brew good ale’. Indeed.
10 Delph Road, Brierley Hill DY5 2TN
Warwickshire: Bird in Hand, Austrey
The first thing that grabs you about The Bird in Hand is the marvellous thatched roof, deliciously neat and boasting a couple of thatched animals on look-out duties at the top. The pub is just as handsome inside, with all the beams, nooks, crannies and more that makes the best English country pubs irresistible.
Main Road, Austrey, Atherstone CV9 3EB
Worcestershire: The Fleece, Bretforton
The half-timbered Fleece appears to have leapt from the pages of Shakespeare. Run by the National Trust, it’s quite happy to live up to this image, with morris dancing, folk music, various pub legends and an Asparagus festival in May.
The Cross, Bretforton, Evesham WR11 7JE
Herefordshire: The Barrels, Hereford
To drink in the Barrels on a warm summer’s evening, as boisterous customers spill out of the multi-roomed interior into the huge flag-stoned yard, is to be reminded of what pubs are for. Beers come from local favourites Wye Valley, and there are events of all sizes - including Oktoberfest - throughout the year.
69 St Owen’s Street, Hereford HR1 2JQ
Derbyshire: Barley Mow, Bonsall
Eccentricity, within reason, is a key element of a great pub - and the Barley Mow has it in spades. This is the home of the annual ‘World Championship’ Hen Races, which take place on the first Saturday in August. For the rest of the year, the Barley Mow is a classic local: good food and beer, a warm welcome, live music on a Saturday evening.
The Dale, Bonsall, Matlock DE4 2AY
Nottinghamshire: Vat and Fiddle, Nottingham
This handsome Art Deco pub is often used by sport lovers, being close to the station and on the right side of Nottingham for the city’s cricket and two football grounds. But it’s more than just a football pub: the last time I was there a large group of good-natured middle-aged punks had assembled for a gig, and Castle Rock’s excellent beers will appeal to ale fans.
12 Queensbridge Road, Nottingham NG2 1NB
Leicestershire: Woodman’s Stroke, Rothley
Known to locals as the Woodies and run by the Warner family for many years, this thatched-roofed pub is very strong on cask ale and rugby memorabilia, and it boasts a beautiful garden that runs down towards Rothley Brook. Conversation is prized, and the food is worth travelling for.
1 Church St, Rothley, Leicester LE7 7PD
Bedfordshire: Cock Inn, Broom
This down-to-earth family-run freehouse has plenty of rustic character (ales served on gravity, a Northamptonshire skittles table, a variety of cosy rooms including a front parlour with an open fire). Food is simple and if you’ve got a tent you can stay the night in an adjoining field.
23 High St, Broom, Biggleswade SG18 9NA
Northamptonshire: Alexandra Arms, Kettering
The Alexandra Arms, a street-corner local in the centre of Kettering, answers the key question for Northants pubs (Can you play Northamptonshire skittles here?) in the affirmative, and much more besides. Plenty of care goes into the beer selection - there are 14 handpumps - and the rest, too.
39 Victoria St, Kettering NN16 0BU
East
Cambridgeshire: The Queen’s Head, Newton
Only five pubs have been in every edition of CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide and (you guessed it) The Queen’s Head is one of them. Run by the same family since 1962, this is a classic, old-fashioned country pub with just the right amount of quirkiness, from the soup, which comes in various shades of brown, to the decorative taxidermy.
Fowlmere Rd, Newton, Cambridge CB22 7PG
Norfolk: The Fat Cat, Norwich
How many beers is too many beers? The Fat Cat has around 30 real ales, which would normally set the alarm bells ringing. How is it possible to keep them all in good condition? Happily, The Fat Cat’s reputation as one of the best places to drink beer in England draws ale-lovers in from near and far.
49 W End St, Norwich NR2 4NA
Suffolk: White Horse, Edwardstone
How do you make a really rural pub like The White Horse a success? For landlord Tom Norton, it’s a matter of giving people plenty of reasons to make the trip. There’s a brewery, a campsite, homemade pizza and regular festivals to tempt customers out to this remote spot.
Mill Green, Edwardstone, Sudbury CO10 5PX
Essex: The Swan, Little Totham
Few pubs look the part like the cottage-like Swan, which, with its whitewashed plaster exterior and deep-red tiled roof, is as enticing as they come. Given its huge back garden and annual Summer Beer Festival, it’s one to remember for the warmer months, too.
School Rd, Little Totham, Maldon CM9 8LB
Lincolnshire: The Strugglers, Lincoln
The Strugglers doesn’t look like much, particularly compared to the nearby walls of Lincoln Castle, but inside it’s a pub’s pub. The name refers not to the struggle up the hill on which the castle sits, but the poor souls who used to meet their ends nearby courtesy of a hangman’s noose.
83 Westgate, Lincoln LN1 3BG
Rutland: The Railway, Ketton
In England’s smallest county, a cosy village pub. The winner of repeated CAMRA awards, it’s a classic local in the old-fashioned, wet-led sense: excellent drinks, chat and music but food only extends to bar snacks (although roast potatoes have been spotted on Sundays). There can’t be many pubs like this left in Rutland.
Church Road, Ketton, Stamford PE9 3RD
South West
Gloucestershire: Old Spot, Dursley
Located on the edge of the Cotswolds, the Old Spot shares the virtues of the region’s pubs without their all-too-common drawbacks. This is a pub not a restaurant, offering simple but high-quality food, excellent beer - and, crucially, a proper pub atmosphere. There are regular events, including an annual pre-Christmas visit from folk-theatre group the Waterley Bottom Mummers.
2 Hill Rd, Dursley GL11 4JQ
Bristol: King’s Head, Victoria Street
Revived by brewery Good Chemistry in 2022, The King’s Head is a pint-sized delight. Inside you’ll find a number of delightful details, including an exuberant mid-Victorian bar-back, a snug area in the shape of a tramcar and William Morris-esque wallpaper. The building dates from the 17th century but has been updated a few times since.
60 Victoria St, Redcliffe, Bristol BS1 6DE
Somerset: The Old Green Tree, Bath
The best drinking space in Bath can be found at the back of the Old Green Tree, a handsome 18th-century structure close to the centre of the city. Here you’ll find the cheerful wood-panelled, herringbone-floored smoke room, with bench seating on both sides, and much more besides. In a well-to-do city, this is a down-to-earth pub.
12 Green St, Bath BA1 2JZ
Wiltshire: The Glue Pot, Swindon
When Isambard Kingdom Brunel decided his railway works should be located in Swindon, he built a neighbourhood of cottages, The Railway Village, for the workers - and a pub, now called The Glue Pot. It’s an easygoing street-corner pub, handsome in an understated way, and as good for cider as it is beer.
5 Emlyn Square, Swindon SN1 5BP
Dorset: Square & Compass, Worth Matravers
This rustic delight offers a genuine dilemma when visited on a warm summer’s evening. Is it better to take your drink outside, with its view over rolling green fields towards the grey-blue sea, or to stay inside and experience one of the most unspoilt pub interiors in the land? Either way, you’re in luck.
Worth Matravers, Swanage BH19 3LF
Devon: Bridge Inn, Topsham
Little altered since the dying days of the 19th century, The Bridge Inn, with its idiosyncratic layout and pervasive clutter, offers a unique experience even when compared to pubs of similar antiquity. No wonder Queen Elizabeth II made it the first pub she visited, in 1998 (a picture commemorating the occasion sits on the bar).
Bridge Hill, Topsham, Exeter EX3 0QQ
Cornwall: The Blue Anchor, Helston
Charismatic and thatch-roofed, The Blue Anchor draws visitors from near and far for its ‘Spingo’ beer, which is made in a tiny brewery at the back. This is Britain’s oldest brewpub, with a brewing tradition that may or may not date back to the 18th century. The atmospheric interior reflects the pub’s long history.
50 Coinagehall St, Helston TR13 8EL
South East
Oxfordshire: Peyton Arms, Stoke Lyne
This part of the world is best-known for Bicester’s shopping opportunities, but the real action is happening out at Stoke Lyne. The Peyton Arms is a timepiece, a rural alehouse where beer is served straight from the barrel and it feels like Asquith has just resigned. One warning: opening hours are limited, so check before you go.
2 School Lane, Stoke Lyne, Bicester OX27 8RX
Berkshire: Nag’s Head, Reading
From the Brewers’ Tudor exterior to 12 hand pumps dispensing excellent-quality beer, this back-street pub is an old-fashioned treat. Expect to find many of Britain’s best breweries in an atmosphere that is more lively local boozer than beer-geek heaven. There’s also a sizable beer garden at the back.
5 Russell St, Reading RG1 7XD
Buckinghamshire: The White Horse, Hedgerley
With a delightful garden and regular events including beer festivals and Morris Dancing, it’s no surprise that The White Horse is such a local favourite. This is an unusually unspoilt pub for this well-to-do part of the country, with simple wooden-bench seating and a flagstone floor in the public bar. Long may it thrive.
Village Lane, Hedgerley, Slough SL2 3UY
Hertfordshire: The Mermaid, St Albans
St Albans is an excellent pub town, and it needs to be: The Campaign for Real Ale is based here, and so is legendary beer writer Roger Protz. You could pick half a dozen St Albans pubs for this slot, but The Mermaid gets the nod because it ticks so many boxes, including, inevitably, good beer.
98 Hatfield Road, St Albans AL1 3RL
Greater London: The Blythe Hill Tavern
Every Londoner will have their favourite, but I think The Blythe Hill Tavern hits the spot when it comes to the key pub virtues: welcoming to all, excellent beer, plenty of cosy spots, and a large back garden. Lovers of Irish music shouldn’t miss the Thursday-night sessions.
319 Stanstead Rd, SE6 4US
City of London: The Cockpit
It’s remarkable that a pub as unaffected as The Cockpit can survive amidst the City of London’s recent blandification, but survive it does. This street-corner pub boasts a delightfully curved black-and-gold exterior and, inside, an abundance of promotional material from the days when it was owned by the Courage brewery.
7 St Andrew’s Hill, London EC4V 5BY
Hampshire: Wonston Arms
“The Best Little Pub in Hampshire” it says on the white-washed facade of the Wonston Arms, and it’s hard to argue. Landlord Matt Todd rescued the Wonston Arms from dereliction in 2015. So much care (and, of course) money has been invested here, inside and out, since.
Wonston Lane, Wonston Road, Winchester SO21 3LS
Isle of Wight: Bonchurch Inn, Bonchurch
Cask ale and Italian food are not historically associated, but at the Bonchurch Inn they’re the key attraction. Converted from stables in the 1840s, this pub has been run by the Besozzi family since the 1980s, and offers a traditional pub experience (plus Italian grub) on an island where it’s not always easy to find.
Bonchurch Shute, Ventnor PO38 1NU
Surrey: The Crown, Horsell
You might assume Surrey is the spiritual home of the gastro boozer - and it has more than its fair share - but there are still traditional pubs here. Perhaps the best is the Crown in Woking, a two-bar local with a brewery attached and a pair of Petanque pistes in the garden at the back.
104 High Street, Horsell, Woking GU21 4ST
East Sussex: First In, Last Out, Hastings
The last time I was in this characterful place on Hastings High Street, three old geezers were discussing their health regimes in between deep swigs of the beer brewed on-site. It’s that sort of place. A little dishevelled, perhaps, but none the worse for it.
14-15 High St, Hastings TN34 3EY
West Sussex: The Royal Oak, Hooksway
Nestled in the gentle folds of the South Downs, The Royal Oak is a former ale-house that has retained at least some of that bygone flavour. Given its location, it’s very popular with walkers, who are drawn as much by the quality of beer as the physical charm of a pub with more than its fair share of stories.
B2141, Chichester PO18 9JZ
Kent: Red Lion, Snargate
Romney Marsh is one of Southern England’s most unique places, and on its northern edge sits one of England’s great pubs. The Red Lion was run for many years by Doris Jemison, who died in 2016, but it remains in the family, and her way of doing things persists. The interior, with its simple seating and marble-topped bar, reflects pubs of a different era. A real destination.
Snargate, Romney Marsh TN29 9UQ
