How to apply your skincare in the correct order, according to the experts
Between serums, oils, masks and moisturisers, working out what order you should apply skincare in can feel like a daunting task – especially when the seasons change. And sure, when you just want to layer it all on and wind down for the evening, hitting up Google to ascertain whether retinol goes before or after your eye cream is a little bit of an ask.
But, trust – this is one area in which it pays to get educated. Why? Well, rubbing your lotions into your face haphazardly means that some of them simply won’t penetrate your skin properly, rendering them ineffective. Worse yet, excessive skincare or products used in the wrong order can exacerbate your skin, causing the likes of dryness, acne and eczema.
This is why WH has teamed up with the best skincare pros who can reveal how to use your product in an orderly fashion, meaning you get real results and maximum bang for your skincare buck. Consider this your skincare layering 101.
Why is it important to layer your skincare correctly?
As mentioned, an overzealous attitude to application can render your skincare products ineffective. There are also certain skincare acids and ingredients that don't work in tandem and need to be used with caution. Use a vitamin C (morning) and retinol (night) at the right time and your skin will reap the rewards; use them at the wrong time, or in the wrong order, and you may well disrupt your skin barrier – or stratum corneum.
Your what? Made of lipids (fats), the skin barrier (or outermost layer of skin) helps defend against daily aggressors (UV rays, infection and pollution). ‘When overusing active ingredients or constantly changing formulas, your epidermal barrier function becomes impaired and too much water evaporates from the skin, causing a lowered water content in the stratum corneum,’ explains Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist for CeraVe. ' When you layer your skincare correctly, the products can penetrate the skin effective and you can fortify and protect the precious skin barrier instead.
The correct order to apply your skincare in the morning
Step 1: Cleanser
‘Your first step in the AM should be cleansing, to remove any remnants of last night’s skincare as well as sweat. Always cleanse with a cloth to create a clean canvas for the rest of your products. With this step completed, they’ll be able to work much more effectively,’ says Liz Earle Ambassador, Sarah Carr.
As for products, Skin Rocks founder and author of Skincare, Caroline Hirons, adds that 'any non-foaming cleanser is fine – milk, balm, gel – as long as it doesn't turn your face into a foam bath, carry on. Yes, you can absolutely use the same product in the morning that you use in the evening if you want to, but you're only cleansing once.'
Step 2: Exfoliating Toner
‘Toners can balance skin pH, hydrate and even out porosity of the skin for better smoothing on of your serums and moisturisers. Always apply after cleansing,’ says Candice Gardner, Education Manager at Dermalogica.
‘You can apply ones containing either AHA (such as glycolic or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid)’ reveals Paula Beogoun, of Paula’s Choice skincare.
Facialist Debbie Thomas adds: ‘There are a lot of products out there and while there will always be some exceptions, the golden rule is to apply your products according to consistency after cleansing.’ So, remember to always start with light and finish with heavy.
Step 3: Hydration Mist
'I love this step,' says Hirons. 'It's the start of the hydrating process and it wakes me up. Use whatever hydrating flower mist or water you like. Any spray should have glycerin or hyaluronic acid in there somewhere, but something like good quality rosewater is fine,' she adds.
Step 4: Eye Cream
'Don't apply this last' says Hirons. 'It's like putting your knickers over your trousers.'
‘The skin around the eyes is thinner and more delicate, which means it is extra susceptible to skin damage caused by environmental assaults. A top tip is to apply eye treatments before serums and moisturisers to avoid highly active products causing eye irritation by incidental application,’ adds Gardner.
Always apply your eye cream with your fourth finger in a tapping motion, as this is the weakest finger so you won’t tug or pull the delicate skin.
Step 5: Serum
‘Serums are great for tackling dehydrated skin and for targeting specific concerns, as they are made up of smaller molecules that can travel deeper into the skin than other products. For dehydrated skin, look for serums that contain Hyaluronic Acid to help retain and boost moisture,’ says Facialist Lisa Franklin.
SkinCeuticals Educational Manager, Charlotte Pitts adds: ‘Serums with antioxidants (such as vitamin C) are key because they help to prevent free radical damage and promote a radiant, healthier-looking complexion. Apply directly to the face and pat in with fingers.’
Heads up. Serums tend to pricey, but if you shop from a cosmeceutical brand then you can be sure that the cost is down to covering clinical trials and it’s formulated to super-high standards. Plus, you can totally save by opting for cheaper cleansers or moisturisers.
Step 5: Moisturiser
‘Once the serum has been applied, those with normal, sensitive or dry skin types will benefit from a moisturiser to help smooth out the surface appearance of the skin, prevent water loss from the skin surface, and improve the barrier function of the skin,’ explains Dr Anjali Mahto.
Step 6: SPF
‘SPF is where it gets a little trickier’ reveals Thomas. If using a mineral SPF this can sit on top of other products and always goes on last.
However, a chemical SPF needs to have contact with the skin to activate. Therefore, apply your serum 15-20 mins before applying your chemical SPF but also ensure this goes one 20 mins before sun exposure.
‘Sounds tricky, but once you get into a habit, it's easy. I apply my serum as soon as I jump out of the shower, where I have cleansed my face already, then I get dressed and do the rest of my morning routine (teeth, hair etc) then apply SPF wait 5 mins and do makeup,’ adds Thomas.
The correct order to apply your skincare in the evening
Step 1: Double Cleanse
‘The first part of your nighttime skincare routine should be to remove make-up and sunscreen. I find the easiest way to do this is with micellar water,’ says Dr Mahto.
‘After make-up has been removed then I would suggest using a facial cleanser, similar to the morning format. Oily skins may prefer a foaming cleanser where dry skin types may want to opt for a cream cleanser instead. The second cleanse will remove any dirt, sweat, bacteria or grime the skin has come into contact with during the day as well as residual skincare products,’ adds Dr Mahto.
Step 2: Toner
This step is the same as the morning one. However, if you plan to use retinol at night, you may want to skip using acid toners because these enhance the potency of retinol. Instead, stick to a balancing toner.
Step 3: Retinol
‘In the evening I would recommend using retinol. Retinols exfoliate the skin by increasing cellular turnover and help to stimulate collagen production revealing healthy fresh skin underneath. They also reduce pigmentation, fight free radicals and thicken the deeper layers of the skin reducing wrinkle formation', reveals dermatologist Dr Paris Acharya, Leading Aesthetics and Skincare Expert and Co-Founder of The Ardour Clinic.
If you don’t want to try a retinol, opt for a serum with acid. However, make sure you’re not overloading the skin by using too many acids in your morning and night time regime. Sunday Riley Good Genes is a glycolic acid serum that's mega potent.
Step 4: Eye cream
'As per the morning routine, if you typically wake up with puffy eyes, move to a lighter texture and use a serum or gel. Avoid rich creams,' advises Hirons.
Step 4: Spot treatment
You always apply spot treatments at night because that's when your body's working hardest to repair itself. However, if you've already used an acid to wage war on acne or are planning on using retinol then skip a spot treatment so you don't irritate your skin.
Always make sure to dab on a spot treatment prior to your moisturiser, so it can really penetrate your skin and work their magic without having another barrier to penetrate.
Step 6: Night Cream / Serum / Facial Oil
'This is where you can really go to town,' says Hirons. 'Treatment products should be your main expense skincare wise. Try to have at least three products you can use, depending on your skin's needs,' she adds.
Night creams are formulated to work with your skin's overnight repair process so will do so much more for your skin compared to a moisturiser.
Prefer a facial oil over a heavy cream? You do you. Just remember the golden rule we banged on about earlier. Facial oils come last because they are heavier in terms of their consistency.
1-2 times a week: Masks
'One of the main benefits of overnight masks is that they work on our skin while it’s already naturally rejuvenating. It’s preferable to use a specially formulated overnight mask, instead of a thicker layer of your normal night cream, as the ingredients are likely to be slightly more gentle so the skin can tolerate them overnight,' adds Franklin.
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