Why Antwerp is the perfect winter city break
Stepping off the train under the soaring dome of the central train station is a fitting welcome to a weekend in Antwerp.
The imposing mass of marble, glass and gilt is an unexpectedly breathtaking first sight, where trains sweep into platforms across three Belle Epoque levels.
This is the first surprise of many. Belgium’s second city still flies under the radar of most city-breakers – but it’s a dreamy mix of magnificent architecture, cafe-lined cobbled streets, fantastic food and chic shopping.
And with a timetable of festive events and a Christmas market that springs up around the city centre, Antwerp is particularly enticing in winter.
What to do
A weekend visit wouldn’t be complete without a leisurely wander round the Groenplaats, the postcard-perfect medieval square in the centre of town.
On one side the Gothic Cathedral of our Lady looms at 123 metres. Peer up at the splendid steeple from the square before entering the hushed interior, packed full of artworks including a number by Rubens – Antwerp’s most illustrious resident.
During winter an ice rink dominates the square. Pop on your boots to skid round the statue of Rubens in the centre, before warming up in the adjacent winter bar or in one of the many traditional bars and cafes within a few footsteps.
100 stallholders set up shop between the Groenplaats and the Grote Markt during the Christmas season, selling food, drink and gifts under the twinkling lights that illuminate the streets.
When you’ve finished perusing, head down towards the river to ride on the giant ferris wheel, where you’ll be treated to a glorious view of the city.
The historic centre sits along the Right Bank of the river Sheldt. For another magnificent view of the skyline, head underneath the water through St Anna’s tunnel and step out on the far bank for the full panorama.
And the tunnel is worth a visit in itself. Built in 1933, it’s still home to its retro wooden escalators – much beloved of professional photographers and Instagrammers alike.
Antwerp is a gift for art lovers, with galleries that will take you from the historic to the contemporary.
The Rubens House, former home and studio of the celebrated Baroque painter, was restored during the 20th century, and is home to fourteen Rubens paintings, displayed within flamboyant Baroque interiors.
The MAS is a 10-storey art gallery as well as an architectural gem in its own right.
After taking in the exhibitions, head up the external escalators right to the top and wander round the roof terrace to see the city and its port from high above.
For a fascinating insight into Antwerp’s history, head to the Red Star Line museum, which documents the journeys of the two million people who sailed from the city between 1873 and 1934, mostly heading for America.
Where to shop
It’s rather too easy to loosen your purse strings in Antwerp, what with the overflowing vintage shops, chic concept stores and fashion boutiques.
The Meir is the main shopping drag, where you’ll find all the major chains. The opulent Stadsfeestzal shopping centre feels more like a ballroom than a mall, and worth a visit even just for a coffee in the neoclassical hall.
For something more unusual head to Kammenstraat and the surrounding areas, home to antique shops, vintage emporiums and fashion boutiques.
The Recollection is a high-end concept store full of trinkets to browse, Your Premium Store is a cathedral of fashion and design, and VIER is a high-end store stocking designer and streetwear brands.
For vintage try Jutka & Riska or shop by weight at Vintage per Kilo.
Places to eat
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to eating in Antwerp.
The ultra-stylish In De Balans in housed in a former apothecary, and serves beautifully presented and delicious cuisine – a fine dining take on traditional Belgian food.
To feast your eyes alongside your feast make for RAS, a glass-sided restaurant which juts out onto the river, and serves delicious seafood.
Belgium is the home of moules frites, and the best place to try it is Maritime in the medieval centre, a traditional restaurant serving up heaving portions of tasty shellfish, alongside a menu of classic dishes.
The Supermercado food market is home to tasty street food, wine bars and cocktails in a grand former post office building.
Where to stay
Hotel FRANQ is a luxury boutique hotel minutes from the historic city centre. The former bank has a majestic vaulted lobby, sophisticated design features and delicious breakfasts.
Don’t miss
Belgian beer is famous worldwide – and for good reason. The De Koninck City Brewery offers excellent interactive tours, complete with samples, stencilling the history of brewing in the city.
Test out your knowledge by heading to a ‘brown cafe’ – Antwerp’s answer to the pub – which offer lengthy menus of beer, from the trappist and traditional to the modern craft offerings.
How to get there
The Eurostar will take you from London’s Kings Cross St Pancras to Brussels. From there it’s less than an hour on to Antwerp.
For more information go to www.VisitAntwerpen.be/en.
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