American Designers Will Light the Way Forward at NYFW for Fall 2025

Ari Stark
·4-min read

A new presidential administration, the merging of America’s two preeminent department stores, luxury’s ongoing slump, brand closures, designer moves and mass wildfires on the opposite side of the country — New York Fashion Week’s fall 2025 edition, which officially begins Thursday, comes at an uncertain moment for the industry and the world to say the least. Nonetheless, those participating are determined to light the way forward, just take a look at their inspirations shared exclusively with WWD.

A rainbow, the ultimate in optimistic symbolism, was the creative spark for Hillary Taymour’s next Collina Strada collection, while Henry Zankov titled his colorful collage resembling fireworks in the night sky a “celebration.” Elsewhere, Tory Burch found enlightenment in midcentury Jules Olitski sculpture, and designer Colleen Allen lit a candlestick to photograph through an opal, conjuring ideas of witchcraft.

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"The irreverence of the crone.” - Colleen Allen
“The irreverence of the crone.” — Colleen Allen

The buzzy Calvin Klein and The Row alum wasn’t the only one to explore folklore and mythical creatures this season. In the storybook that designer Christian Juul Nielson is writing for Aknvas, the princess plays dual roles as her own knight-in-shining-armor wearing a baroque metallic pouf dress. Meanwhile, Ukranian designer Svitlana Bevza referenced the “Mirror, mirror on the wall” line famously delivered by the Evil Queen in “Sleeping Beauty” and, true to form, Elena Velez skewed less Disney and more Brothers Grimm with her inspiration image of a skeletal mermaid.

Pamella Roland, Todd Snyder, Tibi’s Amy Smilovic and Rebecca Hassel Cohen of Loveshackfancy also found ways to escape reality, albeit in places a bit more real. They will embark on a grand tour through Europe for fall with homages to London; Paris; Antwerp, Belgium, and Venice, respectively.

"The clash of style in Paris during the early ‘80s.” - Todd Snyder
“The clash of style in Paris during the early ‘80s.” — Todd Snyder

But back in New York, freezing temperatures and a snow shower or two had some designers thinking about bundling up.

Ahead of their debut, Angelo Beato and Yamil Arbaj of unisex Caribbean-based label Leblanc Studios teased a distressed felted nylon coat. Equally cozy-looking is Lafeyette148’s sweater dress and fringed cardigan-jacket, loomed from eight different yarns.

Braving the elements was top of mind for Wes Gordon as well whose forthcoming Carolina Herrera show will be inspired by a rain-soaked stroll through Central Park. How this translates to the runway remains unclear, but as the boys from Tanner Fletcher made clear, the process of bringing a collection to life can be more rewarding than seeing the finished product. They will be putting an emphasis back on handicraft. “People often say, ‘things just aren’t made the way they used to be.’ We’re inspired to get as close to ‘what used to be’ as possible,” they explained.

“Fall 2025 celebrates the craft of textile design and the original fabric development at the heart of our Lafayette 148 collections.” - Emily Smith
“Fall 2025 celebrates the craft of textile design and the original fabric development at the heart of our Lafayette 148 collections.” — Emily Smith
"We are going back to craft. People often say, 'Things just aren't made the way they used to be.' We're inspired to get as close to ’what used to be’ as possible.'" - Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell
“We are going back to craft. People often say, ‘Things just aren’t made the way they used to be.’ We’re inspired to get as close to ’what used to be’ as possible.'” — Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell

Judging by the Tanner Fletcher designers’ wall hook shaped like a pair of scissors, with thread spindles, fabric was their chosen medium, while evening designer Nardos Imam will incorporate jewelry-making and Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, metalsmithing into their collections. Whalen likened the weight of antique silver discs, which will decorate her first CFDA-official presentation, to the strength found in “community solidarity.”

In fact, strength may just be fall’s banner message. Sally LaPointe and Thom Browne clearly think as much: the former was pondering “endurance“ as she prepares to mark 15 years in business, while the latter mentioned sparrows, birds that in many cultures are tied to themes of resilience and hope.

“…I’m only a poor little sparrow…" - Thom Browne
“…I’m only a poor little sparrow…” — Thom Browne

Elsewhere, strong women from past to present served as muses. Markarian’s Alexandra O’Neill chose Queen Elizabeth I and Anna Sui was taken with “madcap heiresses” like Peggy Guggenheim. But for Michael Kors, Lauren Hutton’s “dégagé chic” was apropos.

Each certainly cultivated her own way of asserting strength through style. And so, too, can the women of today, whether choosing something “sultry and sheer” courtesy of Hervé Léger or tailored from Adeam or Jane Wade. Their bold suit looks could close deals in the boardroom, but Jonathan Cohen took the idea of power-dressing to the ring, previewing a sketch of two floral clad boxers.

"Knockout." - Jonathan Cohen
“Knockout.” — Jonathan Cohen
"Me. I am my inspiration." - Kari Vettese
“Me. I am my inspiration.” — Kari Vettese

Still, the most self-empowered statement came from none other than NYFW newcomer Kari Vettese, who submitted a painting of herself sprawled across a couch in one of her own draped frocks. The accompanying quote reads simply: “Me. I am my inspiration.”

For these and more of the NYFW fall 2025 inspirations, see the gallery above.

Launch Gallery: New York Fashion Week Fall 2025 Designer Inspirations

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