Activated charcoal may not reap the beauty benefits it promises

If you haven’t already heard about activated charcoal, pay attention to this.

Activated charcoal has been labeled the ‘black magic’ of the beauty world with bloggers raving about the skin and nutritional benefits, and spas all across the country giving it their stamp of approval.

The term, ‘activated charcoal’ refers to charcoal that has been reheated and oxidized – not to be confused with the charcoal you normally buy for the grill. It’s been utilized for centuries, both in Ancient Egypt and Chinese cultures, for medical and healing purposes and is still (occasionally) used in hospitals to treat poisoning or drug overdoses. Its draw comes from the absorptive nature, which causes it to act like a sponge, decreasing the toxicity.

But now the pitch-black ingredient is taking the beauty world by storm. From soaps, shampoos and face masks to supplements and detox juices, you can find the ingredient in just about anything. People are using it to treat acne, improve the condition of their skin, relieve upset stomachs and even whiten their teeth.

This month, popular skin care line Dermalogica launched a Charcoal Rescue Masque, a multi-tasking product that claims to “significantly enhance cleansing, helping remove build-up and stimulate cellular turnover, making it a go-to for healthy, glowing skin.”

With claims like that, it’s easy to understand why these products do so well.

Dermalogica charcoal rescue masque. (photo: Dermalogica)

But experts claim the public is misinformed about the benefits of using activated charcoal as a beauty product.

Dr. Lisa Kellett, a dermatologist at DLK Cosmetic Dermatology and Laser Clinic in Toronto, says consumers should understand that charcoal is a spa-based treatment, not a medical one.

“It’s unusual to use it on the skin because the skin is fairly impermeable and the molecule is quite big so it doesn’t do a lot. It basically sits on the top of the skin. It doesn’t have evidence-based medicine and has very little therapeutic effect.”

Kellett also warns the ingredient can be a potential irritant and can cause contact dermatitis, an inflammation of the skin.

(Instagram/banishacnescars)

Another problem is that there is no medical standard for activated charcoal. Unlike regulated, over the counter drugs, like acetaminophen, which is the same no matter what brand you buy, activated charcoal can vary depending on where you get it.

“There’s no standard so one spa’s activated charcoal might be completely different from another spa’s.”

Activated charcoal has also been popping up in juice cleanses, which are part of the latest detox trend. Several juice companies have created their own charcoal lines and some, including Juice Generation, say it’s one of their best-selling products. The drinks are touted as cleansing your body, improving skin and overall health.

Cara Rosenbloom, registered dietician of www.wordstoeatby.ca, says the concept that the body needs to detox has no scientific basis.

“We all have a built-in detoxification system in our kidneys, digestive system and liver – we naturally detox daily. Despite the marketing hype, there is no need to take any potions, powders or cleanses to detox the body.”

While health bloggers are praising the juice cleanse, Rosenbloom warns that there is no data that confirms consuming activated charcoal is beneficial in any way.

“There is insufficient evidence to support the use of charcoal for a host of other purported uses, such as lowering cholesterol, curing hangovers or cleansing and detoxing the body.”

(Instagram/belmonteraw)

But despite the lack of evidence, activated charcoal continues to grow in popularity.

“Activated charcoal is meant to truly detoxify the body in cases of medical emergencies such as accidental poisoning or overdose,” says Rosenbloom. “Somehow that concept became confused with daily cleansing or self-prescribed detoxing.”

“We likely have Gwyneth Paltrow to thank for that.”

While drinking a juice with activated charcoal likely won’t cause any side effects, Rosenbloom warns that larger doses can be dangerous for people taking prescription medications.

“The porous properties of activated charcoal allow it to absorb medications, decreasing their effectiveness. It can also reduce the absorption of certain vitamins and minerals, leading to nutrient deficiencies.”

Have you tried a juice or beauty product containing activated charcoal? If so, let us know what you think by tweeting to @YahooStyleCA.