All aboard the Venice-Simplon Orient Express – from Vienna to Paris
Stepping aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond train, is like entering a bygone era; one where bellhops greet you wearing immaculately pressed uniforms, where guests dress for dinner, and where cocktails are served to the soundtrack of a live jazz singer. It's unashamedly, indulgently glamorous – and even more so if you join one of the special Veuve Clicquot trips, which include champagne pairings with every meal.
The historic champagne house has partnered with the legendary train on a series of Solaire Journeys in celebration of its 250th anniversary, 'chasing the sun' from East to West across the globe (the sun having long been a core influence of the brand, reflected in its sunshine-yellow label). The first of these journey travelled from Singapore to Malaysia, while the second – which I joined – took guests from Vienna to Paris via Reims. A third, five-night South American adventure journeys from Cusco to Arequipa – via one of the seven wonders of the world, the ancient city of Machu Picchu – and departs on 21 October 2024.
So much more than a simple train trip, each of the Solaire Journeys also features experiences and outings that allow guests to explore the regions they're passing through. My itinerary, for example, included a gala dinner in a historic Viennese palace the night before boarding, plus a horse-drawn carriage tour of the city, and an exclusive four-hands lunch at the Veuve Clicquot cellars once we arrived in Reims. The forthcoming South America trip includes dinner in a converted monastery in Cusco; a stop at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge amid the breathtaking scenery of Machu Picchu; a sunrise visit to the world's highest navigable lake, Titicaca; and overnight stays on two unique Belmond trains.
Below, I recount my 24 hours aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express – an experience quite like no other.
Day one: midday
Ticket in hand, I'm directed by a uniformed assistant to the correct platform at Vienna station – not that there's any mistaking which one it should be. The handsome midnight-blue train, with its golden lettering, immediately stands out, flanked by conductors and porters in smart matching uniforms. I'm escorted to my Art Deco cabin, named Le Lac (or The Lake, after its blue interiors), where my bags are already waiting. A quick tour reveals an en-suite bathroom, with a compact but luxurious shower; a discreet wardrobe complete with robe and slippers; a velvet sofa (that will later transform into a bed); and a table, on which sits a selection of welcome canapés and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label.
Day one: 1:30pm
Lunch is served in one of the dining carts, with a three-course set menu — prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients — devised by the chef Jean Imbert, who is responsible for all the food served on the train. The meal is accompanied by Veuve Clicquot and views of the Austrian countryside as we speed through.
Day one: 4pm
Guests assemble in Bar Car ‘3674’ (known as 'the beating heart' of the train) for an aperitif and optional parlour games, including a quiz – the winner of which receives a magnum of champagne.
Day one: 7pm
After heading back to our cabins to change, we gathered for a black-tie dinner curated by Jean Imbert, served in one of the exquisitely decorated 1920s dining cars. Each course of the menu — from American-style lobster to Bresse chicken with morel mushrooms — is paired with the finest Veuve Clicquot cuvées, including vintages dating back to 1985, guided by the house's Cellar Master, Didier Mariotti.
Day one: 10pm
After dinner, we return to the bar car for the evening entertainment, courtesy of the resident pianist, a singer performing vintage classics, and feather-clad dancers – plus excellent cocktails (or, should you wish, more champagne). During dinner, our cabin has been swiftly transformed into a cosy bedroom, with a comfortable double bed – ready to fall into after a night of drinking and dancing – and silk eye masks on each pillow.
Day two: 8am
We wake up to breakfast of eggs and caviar in our cabin, which is served at a time of your choosing (for those so inclined, a sunrise serving is available – and no judgement if you order a Mimosa). We spend the morning relaxing in the cabin, enjoying the view of the Alps as we enter France.
Day two: 10am
There's spare time to enjoy a cup of tea and a read of The Clicquot Gazette, nestled in one of the sumptuous velvet chairs in the lounge car, as we speed through the French countryside and enter the Champagne region.
Day two: 12 noon
Upon arriving in Reims, we disembark the train and head to the home of Veuve Clicquot for a fascinating tour of the Unesco-listed chalk quarries, followed by a unique culinary experience: a four-hands dinner crafted by the Michelin-starred chefs Mory Sacko and Jean Imbert (with both chefs devising their own dish based on the same core ingredients for each course). Naturally, each course is paired with the finest cuvées of the house.
Day two: 3pm
It's back onto the train for the final stretch of the journey to Paris. The bar car plays host to a farewell cocktail hour, with drinks and snacks, including delicious meat and vegetarian sliders, served to a lively soundtrack courtesy of the house DJ. It's here that guests take the opportunity to exchange contact details (Instagram handles for the Millennials, email addresses for Gen X and Boomers), all keen to keep in touch with new friends made on this extraordinary adventure.
For more information and to sign up to the final Veuve Clicquot Solaire Journey in South America, visit here.
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