9 things you need to know about anti-ageing skincare – from the experts

Chloe Burcham

30 January 2025 at 9:53 am·8-min read

al fresco dining — Anti-ageing skincare: 9 things you need to know Flashpop - Getty Images

When it comes to skincare, few topics spark as much interest as that of 'anti-ageing'. And while here at Women’s Health we prefer to move away from the term – after all, skin ageing is completely natural and nothing to be ‘anti’ – it remains one of the most Googled skincare concerns every year.

Rewind just five years, and the beauty industry was flooded with anti-ageing creams claiming to ‘erase wrinkles’ and ‘turn back the clock’. Thankfully, though, attitudes seem to be shifting. Skin ageing is a natural biological process that happens to all of us, and embracing it is just as valid as seeking out ways to support your skin’s health and vitality. At the end of the day, skincare is skincare – and it’s entirely your choice how you approach it. If minimising the appearance of fine lines or boosting your skin’s resilience is important to you, then you do you.

To help you navigate this ever-evolving space, we spoke to two of the UK’s top aesthetic experts – dermatologist Dr Nyla Raja and aesthetic practitioner Alice Henshaw – to answer your most pressing anti-ageing skincare questions. Whether you’re looking to optimise your skincare routine or explore in-clinic treatments, their expert insights have you covered.

Meet the experts: Dr Nyla Raja MBCHB (Hons), MRCGP (Dist), DFFP, DPDermatology, BACD, is one of the UK’s top aesthetic doctors. While aesthetic practitioner Alice Henshaw is the founder and medical director of Harley Street Injectables, the largest clinic on Harley Street exclusively dedicated to non-surgical aesthetic treatments.

When does ageing start?

It goes without saying that every single second of the day, our skin is ageing. But at what point do we really start to notice the effects of ageing skin? ‘Skin ageing begins as early as our mid-20s, when collagen production starts to decline by about 1% per year,’ explains Alice, owner of Harley Street Injectables and Skincycles.

‘In our 30s, we start seeing more visible signs, such as fine lines and slower cell turnover. External factors like UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle choices can also accelerate this process.’ If you're wanting to slow down the look of skin ageing, prevention is often thought to be better than cure – so ensuring you have a thorough skincare routine at a younger age helps to keep your skin looking healthy for longer.

Can ageing be reversed?

‘Ageing is a natural biological process, and while we can’t reverse it, we can absolutely influence the way our skin ages,’ says Alice. ‘The main ways to do this are by supporting collagen production, maintaining hydration, and protecting against oxidative stress.’

Dr Nyla adds that the following preventative measures are key:

Sunscreen: ‘Sunscreen's importance cannot be emphasised enough – and should be in everyone's skincare routine to protect from accelerated ageing. UV rays are one of the biggest contributors to skin ageing, causing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots.’

Hydration: ‘Moisturised skin is less prone to showing signs of ageing, so drinking water and using hydrating skincare products is key.’

Healthy lifestyle: ‘A balanced diet, quality sleep, and regular exercise can all help maintain skin health.’

Avoid smoking and limit alcohol: ‘These can cause premature ageing by breaking down collagen and elastin in the skin.’

Alice adds: 'Clinical interventions, such as targeted skincare, in-clinic treatments, and lifestyle modifications, can also significantly improve the appearance and resilience of the skin, making it look and function in a more youthful way.'

How does sleep impact skin ageing?

Skin undergoes repair and regeneration during sleep, with collagen production peaking overnight. ‘During sleep, our skin repairs itself and accelerates skin regeneration,’ explains Dr Nyla. ‘Growth hormones are released during sleep that help repair tissue and to promote collagen production – which are both important in maintaining skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles.’

Not only this, but lack of sleep can lead to dull, tired-looking skin. ‘You may also notice more wrinkles when you haven't had good sleep, as this is due to decreased collagen production activity. Sleep deprivation can also lead to inflammation, triggering skin issues like breakouts or eczema.’

Does stress accelerate skin ageing?

‘Chronic stress has a significant impact on the skin's health,’ explains Dr Nyla. ‘Stress releases the hormone cortisol, which can cause excess oil being produced – leading to clogged pores and acne. Prolonged periods of high cortisol levels also break down collagen and elastin, which may trigger skin condition flare-ups and delay skin healing.’

Is there an anti-ageing diet?

‘Nutrient-dense foods rich in antioxidants, omega fatty acids, and collagen-supporting vitamins (like C & E) can protect and nourish the skin,’ says Alice. ‘Excess sugar and processed foods contribute to glycation, which accelerates skin ageing.’

How does vaping impact skin ageing?

‘Smoking cigarettes or vapes are incredibly damaging to the skin in several ways,’ explains Dr Nyla. ‘Both smoking and vaping reduce blood flow to the skin, depriving it of oxygen and essential nutrients, leading to the breakdown of collagen. Free radical damage is also caused, causing oxidative stress that can accelerate ageing and more the skin more prone to damage. Smoking also reduces the skin's natural moisture, creating a more dull, ashy complexion.’

Do glucose spikes impact skin ageing?

‘Fluctuating blood sugar levels contribute to inflammation and glycation,’ explains Alice, ‘which weakens collagen and leads to premature ageing signs such as loss of firmness and uneven skin tone.’

What’s the best skincare approach as skin ages?

‘For improving signs of skin ageing, treatments like retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, and dermatological procedures such as laser, microneedling, or wrinkle-relaxing injections can help stimulate collagen and improve skin texture,’ says Dr Nyla.

Key anti-ageing ingredients to look for:

Vitamin C: Brightens the skin and stimulates collagen production.

Peptides: Support collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

Hyaluronic acid: Hydrates and plumps the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines.

Sunscreen: Essential for preventing accelerated skin ageing caused by UV exposure.

Popular anti-ageing treatments include:

Microneedling: Stimulates collagen, reducing fine lines and improving skin texture.

Laser treatments: Target deep skin layers to resurface and boost collagen.

Botox and fillers: Reduce dynamic wrinkles and restore volume loss for a refreshed look.

Is retinol anti-ageing?

Retinoids are widely regarded as the gold standard of ingredients for skin renewal. ‘They speed up cell turnover, reduce pigmentation, and improve fine lines,’ says Dr Nyla. Over-the-counter retinol is milder than prescription-strength tretinoin, but both require careful introduction to avoid irritation. It works to rapidly speed up cell turnover, alongside boosting collagen production and improving skin cell turnover for a brighter, smoother complexion.

Which vitamins help ageing skin?

Vitamin C: A powerful antioxidant that protects against free radical damage.

Vitamin E: Helps neutralise free radicals and maintain skin’s moisture balance.

Vitamin A (retinoids): Boosts cell turnover and improves skin texture.

Omega-3 fatty acids: Reduce inflammation and support hydration.

Collagen supplements: Help maintain skin structure and elasticity.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3): Reduces redness, strengthens the skin barrier, and evens skin tone.

These are the best skincare routines for every decade

Best anti-ageing skincare for 30s – Prevention and protection

‘Prevention is key in your 30s,’ says Dr Nyla. ‘There may not be significant visible signs of ageing yet, but ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) should all be considered as protective measures whilst the skin is still young and beginning to change. Collagen depletion begins to drop at 1.5% each year, so now is the time to build a solid routine that supports long-term skin health.’

Best anti-ageing skincare for 40s – Strengthening and repair

‘In your 40s, repair and boost the skin’s collagen, as pronounced fine lines and loss of volume become more noticeable,’ explains Dr Nyla. ‘Continue using retinoids and consider epidermal growth factors found in serums or creams, which promote cell regeneration and repair. Combining hyaluronic acid and ceramides will help restore the skin barrier and lock in moisture, as the skin tends to dry out as we age. SPF of 50 or higher is recommended now as the skin becomes thinner and less resilient, meaning there is more risk of hyperpigmentation and increased wrinkles.’

Midnight Elixir Regenerative EGF & Multi-Peptide Night Serum

£165.00 at sephora.co.uk

Retinol Youth Serum

$197.00 at skincycles.com

Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Eye Cream

$32.00 at drjart.co.uk

Flawless Daily Sunscreen SPF 50

£31.00 at drsambunting.com

Best anti-ageing skincare for 50s – Hormonal skin changes and regeneration

‘In your 50s and beyond, restoring and firming the skin is often the focus,’ says Dr Nyla. ‘The skin can be more prone to sagging, so promoting elasticity, firmness, and hydration is key. Continue using retinoids, hyaluronic acid, growth factors, and peptides, but also consider AHAs to brighten the complexion and smooth fine lines and age spots. Richer creams, oils, and balms will help combat dryness, while adding masks or firming serums can create a firmer appearance.’