The 8 best retinoid formulas for sensitive skin, and expert advice on how to use them
When it comes to high-performance skincare, dermatologists and skin experts are unanimous in rating retinol; it is one of the most widely researched, tested and clinically proven ingredients available to combat signs of ageing. Alongside vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, professionals have long used retinol in a clinical capacity and it is now commonly found in the beauty-product aisles.
Bazaar's informative guide to using retinol covers everything you need to know about this skincare powerhouse (in addition to our advice for what to do when your skin 'purges') but in short, retinol is part of the retinoid family and is derived from vitamin A. It's used to promote cell turnover for smoother, clearer and brighter skin.
"Retinoic acid, the active form of retinol, works to encourage the shedding of dead skin cells and stimulate the growth of new ones," explains the skin expert Kate Somerville. "This process not only helps to rejuvenate the skin but also enhances the effectiveness of other ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. When used correctly, retinol can be a game-changer for various skin concerns, from mild acne to sun damage, offering a versatile solution for a range of skin types and issues."
For all its benefits, however, retinol is also notorious for its downsides. "Retinol works by speeding up the skin's natural exfoliation process, which can lead to redness, dryness, peeling and increased sensitivity," says Somerville. So can those with sensitive skin really reap its benefits?
Yes, is the short answer. The newest generation of retinoid formulas claims to be safe for delicate skin, so we went straight to the experts to find out how to navigate this ingredient family if you have sensitivities.
Can sensitive skin types actually use retinoids?
In general, yes, but it matters how you use them. CeraVe consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite recommends exercising caution when embarking on your retinoid journey. "Start at a lower percentage formulation, gradually building up frequency," she tells Bazaar.
Somerville seconds this, adding: "Apply it just once or twice a week and use it in combination with hydrating and soothing products. Avoid using it with other harsh ingredients in the same routine, like exfoliants or vitamin C, to minimise irritation."
How to find the right retinoid formula for sensitive skin
According to Dr Granite, retinal esters are the least potent form of retinoids, followed by retinol, then retinaldehyde. Specific delivery systems can also help.
"Having a time-released or encapsulated retinol is great for sensitive skin. As some retinoids can be harsh, I developed all of my retinol and retinal products to be time-released and/or formulated with hydrating properties, to deliver the benefits of retinoids without irritating or drying skin," says Somerville.
Additional ingredients such as ceramides will bolster the natural skin barrier, while nourishing hydrators such as squalane, plant butters and hyaluronic acid can help cushion the drying side effects. Panthenol and cica will help with soothing irritation.
How to use retinoids for sensitive skin
Go slow. "I recommend starting every other night or even twice a week, for example on Monday and Friday, and then building up gradually from there over four-to-six weeks," suggests Dr Granite, who also recommends the 'sandwiching' technique of applying your moisturiser first, followed by the retinoid, and then re-applying the moisturiser.
During the early days, keep the rest of your routine streamlined. "Avoid combining retinoids with other strong ingredients, like vitamin C serums or exfoliating acids, in the same routine, as this can increase the risk of irritation and compromise your skin barrier," says Somerville. Try it for a week, and then try alternating your active ingredients on different nights.
"Once your skin has adjusted to retinoid use, you can start gradually increasing it to nightly (or as tolerated) and then layering in additional products such as an antioxidant or niacinamide serum for the morning," advises Dr Granite. "Sensitive skin types may also want to layer an additional hydrating product like a hyaluronic acid serum after retinoids and before moisturiser to help reduce the potential for dryness and irritation."
Can you build retinoid tolerance in sensitive skin?
It is possible, says Dr Granite, and dryness often subsides after a while. That said, like everything else in skincare, retinoids aren't for everyone. If your skin continues to worsen and feel irritated, do stop use and seek advice from a dermatologist.
There are plenty of retinol alternatives that can help with brightening and skin rejuvenation. Dr Granite recommends peptides, azelaic acid, bakuchiol and botanicals such as rambutan leaf extract. Meder Myo Fix, Base Skincare Super Youth Serum and Naturium Azelaic Acid 10% are all excellent options, too.
The best retinoid formulas for sensitive skin
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1
Unsure of where to start with active ingredients? Bazaar editors often turn to Medik8. The British brand's retinoid range is excellent and also extensive, covering varying strengths and needs. Crystal Retinal 1 is perfect for sensitive skin types as it uses a lower dosage of the more stable and tolerated retinal, and contains additional vitamin E to provide protective benefits alongside hydrating glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Type: Serum
Texture: Cream
Supporting ingredients: Vitamin E, glycerin, hyaluronic acid
Allies of Skin Retinal 0.05% & Peptides Repair Night Cream
Streamline your evening routine without compromising on high-performance formulas with this retinal-infused night cream. It features soothing ingredients such as cica and tea extracts, alongside barrier-fortifying ceramides and plumping peptides. There is also a 1.0% retinal version but for those prone to sensitivity, start here. The creamy texture feels nourishing on parched complexions, too.
Type: Moisturiser
Texture: Cream
Supporting ingredients: Ceramides, peptides, antioxidants
Kate Somerville Mega-A Skin Transforming Serum
This creamy serum is so pleasant to use, you wonder if it is actually doing anything – but Bazaar editors have noticed a marked improvement in general skin texture and uneven skin tone. The smart formula uses retinal to kickstart cell renewal while generous amounts of hydrating squalane keep the skin moisturised. Meanwhile, dual-weight hyaluronic acid guarantees skin stays plump, so you can expect little to no signs of peeling or dryness.
Type: Serum
Texture: Cream-liquid
Supporting ingredients: Squalane, hyaluronic acid, panthenol
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
CeraVe is well-loved for its gentle, no-frills formulas that promise to keep the skin barrier strong and healthy, so it stands to reason that its retinol product is equally great for sensitive skin types and those new to retinol. Ceramides help to fortify the skin's natural barrier while niacinamide ensures hydration and rebalances excess oil production.
Type: Serum
Texture: Gel-liquid
Supporting ingredients: Ceramides, niacinamide
Lancaster Crème Princière Yeux
The Crème Princière line was a favourite of Grace Kelly back in the '60s, and now Lancaster has revived it for modern day by using patented technology. The 'cationic liposomal' retinol is essentially a delivery system that brings the ingredient exactly to where it's needed most, while the patented enzymes promise to promote skin repair. All this means plumper, fresher, brighter under-eyes without any dreaded irritation.
Type: Eye treatment
Texture: Cream
Supporting ingredients: Probiotics, gingko extracts, niacinamide
Elizabeth Arden Retinol and HPR Ceramide Rapid Skin Renewing Water Cream
This plush, airy moisturiser feels incredibly hydrating and refreshing, but the addition of two forms of retinoid helps to smooth out fine lines as they encourage cell renewal. Ever a trailblazer when it comes to skincare for mature skin, Elizabeth Arden also uses peptides to lift slack skin and phytoceramides to maintain a strong skin barrier.
Type: Moisturiser
Texture: Water cream
Supporting ingredients: Phytoceramides, peptides
Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
As the name suggests, each pump deposits the perfect amount (we suggest sticking to the recommended one pump) of product to deliver all the line-smoothing, skin-refining benefits with minimal discomfort. Peptides provide further plumping prowess, while ceramides ensure your skin stays strong and healthy. The brand does suggest using it daily, but do exercise caution and introduce it slowly into your routine.
Type: Serum
Texture: Cream-serum
Supporting ingredients: Ceramides, peptides, niacinamide
The Inkey List Retinol Serum
This starter retinol uses 'slow-release' retinyl acetate, which essentially means it's much gentler for those with delicate skin. Padded with nourishing squalane, this silky serum also contains granactive retinoid (a vitamin A derivative often used for its less sensitising properties) to help even out pigmentation and soften the appearance of fine lines.
Type: Serum
Texture: Silky
Supporting ingredients: Glycerin, squalane
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