Skirts over trousers, the Wild West, and Victorian-era femininity are all over runways worldwide. With New York Fashion Week around the corner, we can expect the aforementioned amped up alongside fresh presentations, street style moments, and buzz-worthy parties.
This season, fashion lovers eagerly await the return of Helmut Lang under recently anointed creative director Peter Do, Tommy Hilfiger with its precedent for splashy shows, and Thom Browne's closing Valentine's Day show. Cult-loved, it-girl brands like Private Policy, Collina Strada, and Sandy Liang too have netizens buzzing.
There's also an impressive roster of debuting and emerging designers showcasing this NYFW. Increasingly diverse, these designers center storytelling on the runway, with many citing their heritage and hometowns as creative inspirations.
Uncover the must-know emerging designers from this Fall/Winter 2024 season below. In other news, check out our roundup of emerging designers from Copenhagen Fashion Week FW24.
Ironically, Jane Wade's designs are inspired by dress codes. Or rather, her desire to manipulate them.
Originally from Portland, Oregon, Wade grew up seeing utilitarian garments everywhere. Whether it was the bulky snowsuits people wore to the slopes or her parents' uniforms for work, Wade was aggravated by how dress codes suppressed personal expression. Yet, there was a small part of her that still admired the way dress codes served the people adhering to them. This mix of admiration and aversion informs Wade's brand. She uses her designs to bring a combination of femininity and utility to life, while telling those stories on the runway.
Founder Edvin Thompson describes Theophilio as his living, breathing autobiography. With past collections like "Air Jamaica" and "Migration," Thompson's Jamaican heritage and immigrant identity proudly drive his craft. Although not showcasing this season, Theophilio is a brand to watch and we expect to see opulent pieces, bright colors, and valuable learnings embedded within the newest collection.
Dauphinette comes from the french word dauphin, which means heir to the throne, with the feminine suffix, -ette, subversively added. The label originally started as a vintage store in Paris, but as founder Olivia Cheng progressed in her fashion design journey, she started to craft and upcycle dopamine inducing pieces. While Cheng's mission is to create the happiest outerwear on Earth, the brand also dabbles in dresses and accessories like earrings, chokers and purses.
With avant-garde draping and eccentric fabrics, Onsirin's eponymous label is an ode to carefree glamor and edgy femininity. The Thailand born and raised designer finds her roots in real estate, but after studying at Parsons and working with popular houses like Sem Sem and Anna Sui, was inspired to start Onsirin in late 2023. This NYFW will mark the brand's debut.
With gender neutral dressing all the rage, Tanner Fletcher pleases the masses. Inspired by vintage decor and interior design, its pieces blend masculine and feminine and have been spotted on the likes of Bad Bunny and Troye Sivan.
Much like the Midwest that is her muse, Velez and her brand exude grit and authenticity.
Last May, in a gripping New York Times article, Velez disclosed the grim financial reality and turbulence of being a designer. This candid quality and her midwestern roots are a running theme across her designs that portray a deconstructed femininity. By collaborating with local metalsmith artisans and using site-specific materials, she aims to highlight the Rust Belt and its traditional craftsmanship.
Previously known as Black Boy Knits, the cult-loved label that explores queer, immigrant, and Black stories is relaunching this NYFW as Agobobly. The rebranding comes from the founder, Jacques Agbobly, desire to branch out from knit work and to pay homage to their identity, Togolese culture and familial history. With a keen eye for wholesale, the designer hopes this collection will capture their self-reflection journey.