Kate Moss x Zara’s ‘nouveau boho’ collection: The best pieces to buy (and what to avoid)

Kate Moss
Moss wearing a matching shirt and skirt from the new collection, which has been billed as ‘Studio 54 meets effortless British cool’

The benchmark to which all high-street fashion collaborations are compared is the Kate Moss for Topshop collaboration in 2007. The supermodel rarely did interviews back then, but women everywhere were familiar with her inimitable style. On the day that it launched, shoppers queued at dawn, and Moss herself made a surprise appearance in the window of the Oxford Circus flagship store. It was a sensation and sold out in a flash, with items fetching ludicrous sums on eBay. Even now, pieces from the collection remain sought-after on second-hand sites.

So when Moss’s new partywear collection for Zara launches on Saturday, the high street giant will have high hopes. If you’re experiencing a little deja vu, it’s because these are not the only high street collections that Moss has had a hand in.

In 2015, she modelled for Mango’s autumn/winter campaign with Cara Delevingne, and she modelled former French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt’s collection for Zara in 2022. But this is the first collection Moss has actually designed, and she’s done so with the help of her friend, the stylist Katy England, and Marta Ortega Pérez, the elegant chairman of Zara’s parent company Inditex.

The collection is billed as “Studio 54 meets effortless British cool”. All the pieces are inspired by Moss’s vintage “archive”, which must surely fill a warehouse. She has been keeping everything for her daughter, Lila, 22 – on the advice of fellow model Twiggy. “I couldn’t even really look, it was too overwhelming,” Moss told Vogue. “We only really did the dresses.”

It’s intended to be timeless, with broad appeal. Moss wants this collection to be treasured and kept for the next generation. “There are hand-me-downs in here, like the perfect peacoat in fake pony,” she says. “The jacket I inherited, that the design was taken from, had my friend’s initials in the lining, so we’re going to offer a customisation to sew in customer initials in theirs. Old school. You don’t want someone nicking your coat. It looks so expensive.”

At £699, it is, by anyone’s standards, expensive, but especially by Zara’s standards, where a coat usually costs around £100. A pair of python print hotpants is, inexplicably, £229.

Judging by the unscientific metric of counting my WhatsApp messages from friends this morning, there is genuine interest. What everyone wants to know is: “Is it any good?”

The answer is not straightforward. The degree to which you love it really hangs on how heavily you want to buy into the nouveau boho look that is set to dominate 2025. Then you have to imagine the clothes taken out of the context of a Mert and Marcus photoshoot, styled by Katy England and starring Kate Moss. And, of course, no campaign is a substitute for trying something on and assessing the fit on your own body.

That said, there are some winning pieces that could slot well into any wardrobe. So consider this your definitive guide to what to buy – and what to avoid.

The hits

Ivory satin blazer, £119

A party blazer is a useful thing if you feel the cold, or if you don’t like to expose your arms. It will go with most things – unless you’re rocking an extreme shoulder or sleeve – and adds an androgynous feel to an otherwise pretty look. Drape it over the shoulders, or sling it on over a sparkly minidress. This ivory shade is a great alternative to black, and just as smart.

Silver dress, £119

We all remember that picture of Moss at Glastonbury in 2005, Pete Doherty on her arm, wearing an ultra-short gold lurex minidress with a wide, low-slung belt and the muddiest of wellies. Moss has recreated that dress in silver for Zara, this time with a tie belt and a slit on one side. It’s not quite as sexy as the original, but it’s still got the potential to suit a lot of different body types. If you really want to emulate the original Glasto look, head to All Saints, which has brought back the belt that Moss wore in 2005 (£66.50, allsaints.com).

Black beaded dress, £149

This looks like 1930s vintage, with a pretty, wave-like hem – plus it’s a forgiving fit. It looks especially lovely styled over palazzo trousers, as seen in the look book pictures, although it would also look chic with sheer black tights and high-heeled sandals.

Red sandals, £169

No surprise that Moss has included a party shoe made for dancing. Although the heel is high, it offers good support, and the red will add an unexpected shot of colour to any party outfit. These look especially lovely styled with socks and sheer tights, so don’t be afraid to experiment a little – it’s an easy way to add a bit of edge to an otherwise safe look.

The miss that could have been a hit

Leopard jacket, £699

This would have been the piece to set your alarm to buy. Moss made all of us want to buy leopard jackets in the early Noughties, and this is a faithful copy of the one she used to wear with skinny jeans back in the day. The print is currently enjoying a fashion moment, so there’s no better time to invest – but, at £699, there are plenty of more affordable alternatives available at other stores. There is, however, a leopard bag for £89 if you love the look but don’t want to take out a second mortgage.

The misses

Hotpants, £229

These have “70 per cent off sale rail” written all over them. Fine in a beautifully styled ad campaign, but limited use or appeal in real life. The yellow-ish shiny snake print looks tacky, too.

Velvet lace-up flares, £79.99

My concern about these is the lace-up fly. Too tight, and the fabric will bunch up; too loose and you risk flashing your knickers. The pockets are not in the most flattering position either, right on the hips.

Floral dress, £149

Even on Kate Moss, the woman who looks good in everything, this doesn’t fill me with excitement. The ruffles at the hem and collar are lovely, but the one running down the front looks a bit awkward. The central split goes wardrobe-malfunction-high, too – is this what the hotpants are for? There are much better floral dresses out there.

Beaded, sequinned bralette, £59.99

The thing about bras is that to look good, they must fit perfectly, and anything that comes in standard dress sizing won’t fit well unless you’re an A-C cup. Anything larger and proper support is required. If you do happen to suit it though, congrats – it would look great just glimpsed under a buttoned blazer.

White draped dress, £149

In theory this is great: an elegant evening gown that doesn’t demand a particular body type to wear. And in the look book, it looks fabulous. But without the help of a stylist, it may just end up looking like you’ve repurposed your bed linen as partywear. The label Taller Marmo has done something similar in the past, but with fringing, which really elevates it.