15 Brands You Might’ve Missed at London Fashion Week Spring 2025
The London Fashion Week schedule was a jam-packed occasion with shows and presentations taking place across the city, as well as off-schedule showcases.
Here, some of the season’s highlights that you may have missed.
More from WWD
Mithridate
Mithridate, a Chinese label that has been showing in London for a few seasons, presented on schedule for the first time, with Charlie Rowe, Tamsin Greig, Tigerlily Taylor, Jameela Jamil, and James Blake in the audience. Stylist Harry Lambert helped the brand create a more concise point of view for a collection that celebrated the traditional arts and crafts in Yunnan.
There were many dramatic gowns adorned with metal embellishments, inspired by the silverware decorations of the mountain-dwelling Miao ethnic minority in the region, as well as more commercial looks such as silk print dresses, Qiqao-influenced jackets, and tie-dye denim.
Mowalola
Mowalola capped off London Fashion Week with a bang, her runway show equal parts clothing presentation, performance, and album teaser. Scarlet Ts and the brand’s signature Bundle Bag were stamped with “Ebony” and “Mowa” in block print, and barely-there latex skirts and furry shorts were paired with covetable thigh-high strappy boots.
Talia Byre
Oh, to be a Talia Byre girl.
This season, the designer, a favorite among London’s in-the-know fashion flock, set about solidifying who her customer is. One thing’s for sure: she’s really cool. Lipkin Connor said she was inspired by childhood cartoons, from “Dennis the Menace” to Wilma from “The Flintstones,” poppy reds and purples straight from old school CRT TVs.
Standouts included stripes streaked across slouchy jersey silhouettes, and chic shearling vests, miniskirts, and a dress.
Charlie Constantinou
Charlie Constantinou’s core tenets — “Adaptability, function and color,” as he told WWD last season — were on full display for his spring 2025 show. Constantinou’s work tackles dressing for anywhere and any weather, from the outdoors to the city and everywhere in between through a fresh, youthful lens.
This season was no different: lime green raincoats with epaulets and puffy pockets were perfect for a rainy spring day, while airy bouclé tanks came with hoods and scarves, allowing the wearer to adjust for the warmest or coldest of days.
Karoline Vitto
Karoline Vitto presented her most considered collection yet this season with the help of stylist Georgia Medley. The lineup included flowing, size-inclusive draped dresses — in black, nude, brown, white, scarlet, bright pink, and stormy blue — held together by shiny metal wires.
The softness of the fabric and the sensual way it wraps around the body form an exciting dynamic with her signature metal details, now done in collaboration with fellow Brazilian jewelry designer Carlos Penna for a sleeker and more flexible appeal.
Consistence London
BFC ambassador Hu Bing brought the Chinese label Consistence to London for a runway show on Thursday night. The brand, founded by Tien Lu and Fangfang, offered a deconstructed but accessible take on men’s wardrobe staples. A standout was the trench-inspired apron.
Pauline Dujancourt
Ten years ago, Pauline Dujancourt said she made a wish to become a fashion designer, scribbling down her wish on a little note. In a moment of kismet, the Paul Smith Foundation recipient and 2024 LVMH Prize finalist only recently rediscovered it.
This collection served as a full circle moment. Dujancourt’s textile prowess was on full display, dreamy crochet dresses adorned with flourishes of ruffles and ruched skirt sets fit for fairies.
Jawara Alleyne
Jawara Alleyne’s spring 2025 collection was a love letter to his Caymanian heritage. Eggplant, teal, and mustard jersey was torn, ripped, and cut, then draped, safety-pinned, and knotted every which way around the body; straight-leg trousers came pin-striped, and dresses slinky.
Made in collaboration with the Cayman Islands’ ministries of tourism and culture, the collection will be shown in the National Gallery of the Cayman Islands.
Lueder
Marie Lueder’s first on-calendar runway show was inspired by the magic of alchemy. She presented grungy, sports-infused outfits with a chemical transformation-inspired muted color palette that was rather accessible.
Meanwhile, a male model wearing a hooded dress and walking down the runway bearing giant metal chains struck social media gold for the Royal College of Art alum.
Phoebe English
“Hotel bedding, silks from bridal waste offcuts, surplus, faulty leftover sewing threads” — the materials Phoebe English’s press release listed read like a forager’s findings.
Therein lay the beauty of English’s presentation, an avant-garde ode to upcycling. Boxy button-downs, silky skirts, and cutout heart dresses comprised the designer’s spring 2025 collection.
AllSaints
AllSaints has turned 30, and to ring in the anniversary, the brand held a rocking runway show and launched three flirty fragrances.
A pioneer of that British brand of gritty rock ‘n’ roll fashion, the catwalk show solidified the label’s love affair with leather and lace. To match, the brand’s newly launched scent trio — “Sunset Riot Intense,” “Shoreditch Leather,” and “Ravaged Rose” — had their own leather jackets, too.
EBay
As vintage junkies know, online resale sites and secondhand shops are the places to go for the best fashion finds. EBay knows it, too: to herald London Fashion Week, both of its stores held runway shows where pre-loved clothes came down the catwalks.
In partnership with the British Fashion Council, eBay highlighted garments by iconic British designers, including John Galliano, Paul Smith, and Stella McCartney.
Tolu Coker
British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker is aware of the saying “mother knows best” only too well and this season she dedicated her show to her mother, Olapeju, with sweet colors of orange, purple, blue and more.
The designer made her own geometric shapes that were reminiscent of the wallpapers found in African households.
“The prints within the reclaimed satins were really inspired by looking at this notion of how people become part of a space in their communal gathering areas,” said Coker backstage.
Temperley London
Alice Temperley lightened up for spring with a series of romantic, draped evening dresses done in printed metallic velvet, and printed georgette with sequins. For day, she was inspired by a recent trip to Barcelona, and added a dash of the city’s swirling neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau art and architecture to the collection.
There were patterned kimonos, luscious double-knits with a new “T” logo, cotton separates, and denim. It’s a year of change for Temperley, who sold a majority stake in her company to the Dubai-based Times Square Group last November. She’s building up her design and commercial team once again, and plans to open a store on Sloane Street in November.
Philipp Dorner
The transition from youth to adulthood was on the mind for German designer Philipp Dorner.
He inspected Boy Scouts uniforms and the way they shape into fantasy by adding semi-transparent prints, velvets, briefs peeking out of trousers and a garrison cap in glittering sequins.
”The collection is a reflection of how things in life can turn out different and as much as you prepare for it, it still won’t be the same and mostly for the better,” said the designer.
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
