The 12 Best Watches Headed to Auction in N.Y.C. This Fall
The fall watch auctions in New York are reliably highlighted by the usual rare Patek Philippe references, including reference 1518 (there’s at least one every auction season now) and coveted Rolexes–Paul Newman Daytonas anyone? But a deeper dig through the catalogs of the upcoming Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s sales reveal a treasure trove of oddities and lesser-known collectibles worth a second look. From singing birds and grails that lived in flowerpots to pop-art grand feu dials and an ultra-thin Richard Mille, the fall watch auctions in New York have something to sate every collector’s appetite for whimsy. Here are 12 watches from the three auction houses that lead the sales.
The Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo New York Watch Auction XI is December 7-8. Sotheby’s Important Watches is December 6. Christie’s Important Watches is December 9.
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Rolex Submariners With “Titanic” Pedigree
Sotheby’s is selling a pair of Rolexes with “Titanic” significance. One is a steel Submariner reference 1680 (estimate $20,000-$40,000) owned by underwater cinematographer Al Giddings during several dives to the wreck of the Titanic. The other, also owned by Giddings, is a yellow-gold reference 1680 Submariner worn by actor Bill Paxton in the movie Titanic, which Giddings co-produced.
The one shown here was a gift from Rolex to thank Giddings for the use of his photographs of Rolex ambassador Sylvia Earle, a marine biologist second only to Jacques Cousteau in fame.
Sotheby’s ($30,000 – 60,000)
Rolex “John Player” Daytona reference 6238
I have a thing for the Rolex Daytona Reference 6238 Daytona John Player Special–something about the black dial with yellow gold frame and Paul Newman-style hash marks. This one is extra special: its owner tucked it away in a flowerpot in his basement for some reason, unaware of the watch’s significance, until a chance encounter on a recent cruise where they attended a presentation on Rolex watches and learned of its potential value.
Sotheby’s ($500,000 – $1,500,000)
Heuer Reference 1133B Monaco Owned by Steve Mcqueen
Americans love “screenworn” watches, and among those, this Heuer reference 1133B Monaco is a watch like no other. It was owned by actor Steve McQueen, who wore it in the 1970 film Le Mans. Made circa 1969, it was the one McQueen chose to wear for the film. Six references of the 1133B models that were delivered to the set by Heuer to be worn by McQueen in the film and for photo shoots. Once filming wrapped, two of the watches went to McQueen. This one was acquired by mechanic Bevan Weston after the film wrapped.
Sotheby’s ($500,000 – $1 million)
Necessaire a Broderie Singing Bird Watch
Sotheby’s brings not one but a handful of birdboxes to its December sale. Among the highlights is a singing bird necessaire by Frères Rochat (est. $600,000 – 800,000), made circa 1815. Aside from being one of the world’s most admired mechanical singing birds, it is also a receptacle for a needle holder, needle case, retractable pencil holder, a thimble, a scent bottle, and a bodkin (a sewing tool). The enamel scene on the necessaire is based on an engraving by William Walker, after Charles Monnet’s depiction of Telemachus the mythical son of Odysseus and Penelope—embodying the era’s fascination with heroic quests and mythological themes.
Sotheby’s ($600,000 – $800,000)
Philippe Dufour Grande Petite Sonnerie
Celebrated independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour’s magnum opus, a one-of-a-kind Grande & Petite Sonnere wristwatch, made in 1992. It was the world’s first grande & petite sonnerie wristwatch: A sonnerie complication chimes the hours and quarters automatically, and in the grand sonnerie mode at each quarter-hour, and only on the hour in the petite sonnerie mode. It combines and intricate hinged hunter case on the back, with a sapphire crystal showing the open dial, offering a view into the movement through the case front—a first and the only configuration of its kind.
Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo ($250,000 – $500,000)
Biver Reference PRF-12248 Piece Unique
TimeForArt held its first sale of donated watches last year, raising $1.2 million for the Swiss Institute, which supports artists and education in the realm of contemporary art, including a year-round platform for exchange between horological and visual arts. Its second auction, conducted by Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo, is scheduled for December 7 in New York. Among the 25 unique watches made for and donated to the sale is this steel Biver ref. PRF-12248, a carillon tourbillon with a hand-engraved dial by Swiss artist Guillaume Ehinger and a minute repeater.
Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo ($60,000 – $120,000), no reserve.
Chanel Boy-Friend TimeforArt Piece Unique
This unique Chanel Boy-Friend watch is also part of the TimeForArt sale, with a unique case made of blackened steel. It stands as a great example of the growing influence of pop culture and pop art on watchmaking. This dial features an illustration of brand founder, Gabrielle Chanel, rendered in grand feu enamel, with her iconic strands of pearls, cuff sleeves and red lipstick. Powered by a manual-wound movement.
Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo (70,000 – $140,000) no reserve.
Patek Phillipe Reference 1518 in Pink Gold with Italian Calendar
A landmark Patek Philippe reference 1518, the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced in series. Patek only made 281 examples, the majority of which are yellow gold, with pink gold specimens just a small fraction of the total production (believed to be 55). This one, made circa 1948, has an Italian calendar—only eight examples of the reference 1518 in pink gold were made with an Italian calendar.
Phillips in Association With Bacs & Russo ($800,000 – $1.6 million)
Richard Mille RM-UP-01 Ferrari
The draw with this Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari ulra-flat titanium is that it’s so out of character for Mille, which notoriously produces some of the biggest, boldest timepieces ever made. The goal here was to make the thinnest wristwatch possible that was practical to use everyday. With a movement thinness of 1.18 mm and an overall thinness of an equally incredible 1.75 mm, the watch was 6,000 hours in development and testing, over several years. The movement was made in collaboration with Audemars Piguet. It is numbered 37 of 150.
Christie’s ($1 million – $2 million)
Patek Philippe Reference 1252 Chameleon
This rarity from Patek Philippe is a ladies’ watch made in 1940. The reference 1252 Chameleon is a hinged bangle bracelet watch in 18k pink and yellow gold, with a pink (or salmon) dial. Only three examples are known publicly. The two other are both made entirely in yellow gold, and one of those two resides in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.
Christie’s ($50,000 – $100,000)
F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain
No auction these days is without at least one lot from star independent watchmaker F.P. Journe, whose pieces have been consistently topping the charts at every sale in the past three or four years. This one is a Tourbillon Souverain made in 1999, a platinum version with a rare rhodium-plated brass movement, a defining feature of Journe’s early series of this model. The watch, from the highly sought after Reference T series and an example of the third generation of the model, was F. P. Journe’s first series production watch following on from the success of the initial group of 20 Souscription watches.
Christie’s ($250,000 – $450,000)
Cartier London Crash 1986
The Cartier Crash is still enjoying a moment. This one, from the London workshop circa 1986, is a rarity. It’s one of three known models in yellow gold with a domed caseback rather than the more typical flat caseback. Christie’s believes only 20 examples of the Crash were made in yellow gold at the London boutique.
Christie’s ($400,000 – $800,000)
