Zegna Men’s Spring 2025: Mads Mikkelsen Walks in an Oasi of Linen

Ermenegildo Zegna founded his wool mill in 1910, aiming to create beautiful fabrics. Fast forward more than a century and Alessandro Sartori, in his role as artistic director of the Zegna brand, would do the founder proud with his curiosity for and development of textiles.

Ahead of the Zegna show, held in an industrial space on the outskirts of Milan, the designer said the company has trademarked a linen treatment that renders the fabric crease-free — shown, for example, on a supple pantsuit in a pale corn color.

More from WWD

Linen was front-and-center in the collection, also a protagonist of the set, although the linen blades creating a winding path in the spacious location were not vegetal but made of metal, varnished in yellow, vibrating as in a breezy field — the Oasi of Linen.

Sartori feels confident that his “reformed vocabulary has been established” and that now he can adapt the clothes to the individual and each personality, also through the use of linen, characterized as very “malleable.” Accordingly, the show casting was particularly diverse, including a few women, and friend-of-the-house actor Mads Mikkelsen, who closed the show. Wearing an allover terracotta brown look — an extra-light leather “il Conte” jacket over a chocolate brown jacquard knit and Sartori’s new wide-leg pants with elongated pockets — he looked terrific and assertive. He carried two roomy totes in each hand as the designer put a focus on accessories, too, including a new suede moccasin that can be scrunched up without any damage.

In sync with the trends in Milan, and one that Sartori embraced early on, the looks were soft and easy, and there were a few short shorts, although in general the silhouette was taller.

Models strode in enveloping jackets, knitted shirts and blazers with peak lapels.

There was only one print, on polos and shorts, a pattern reminiscent of branches — most likely a reference to the thousands of trees at the Oasi Zegna.

Once again, the color palette was not an afterthought for Sartori, ranging from sand to terracotta and hydrangea blue. The star of the season, linen, was also blended with cotton, and there were other precious fabrics, mixes of mohair and silk for example, and Zegna’s signature Oasi Cashmere.

Sartori has over the seasons developed a distinctive look for Zegna and his sophisticated take for spring did not disappoint. It was entirely in sync with the codes of the brand, yet evolved and fresh, with a new perspective.

For more Milan men’s spring 2025 reviews, click here.

Launch Gallery: Zegna Spring 2025 Men's Ready-to-Wear Collection

Best of WWD