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Why the smoky eye is the most flattering make-up look for every age

Jennifer Lopez looking smoky at the 2023 Met Gala - getty
Jennifer Lopez looking smoky at the 2023 Met Gala - getty

“Smoky eyes suit all women,” insists Linda Cantello, the make-up artist credited with inventing the beauty look that was ubiquitous at the Met Gala on Monday night. Indeed, smudgy black eyes have become as synonymous with timeless glamour as red lipstick – hence why it’s generally deemed too much to combine the two.

She’s not wrong. On the red carpet at Vogue’s annual fundraiser, there was a sea of dark, sultry eye make-up. Whether a nod to the late Karl Lagerfeld (who was perennially cloaked in black) or a sign that classic is back, we’ll never know. What’s never in doubt is the enduring power of smoky eyes to flatter anyone at any age.

The first black kohl pencil is thought to have originated in ancient Egypt to protect eyes from the sun, bacteria and evil spirits, though it’s fair to say that the ground-lead sulphide that Cleopatra is believed to have used to rim her eyes would be deemed lethal by today’s clean beauty standards.

At 73, Anna Wintour proves that the smoky eye is as diverse as it is alluring - Getty
At 73, Anna Wintour proves that the smoky eye is as diverse as it is alluring - Getty

Dark, softly smudged eye make-up began to take off in the 1920s and 1930s when Hollywood film stars accentuated their eyes for the big screen. To make hers smoky, Marlene Dietrich is said to have mixed candle soot with vaseline. Needs must.

But it is Cantello who made the smoky eye the beauty phenomenon it is today when she was hired to do the make-up for Tom Ford’s second collection for Gucci in 1997. Loosely inspired by Julie Christie’s “messed-up” black eye make-up, Cantello told The Cut in 2018 that “up until that point, the beauty looks had been very constructed. If it was a dark eye, there was a defined bit in the corner and the lid.

But we blended it all in as though she had been wearing it. It was bringing sex back.” Just over a quarter of a century later and smoky eyes continue to be the make-up look women most want to learn – arguably because the look is both sexy and classic, a powerful and elusive combination. “It’s evolved, but it’s still one of the sexiest eye looks to do,” said Cantello.

Social media has lifted the veil on the mastery behind red carpet make-up and yet smoky eyes, like “no make-up make-up”, is one of those beauty conundrums that’s as classic as steak frites; simple in theory but tricky to get right. As the Telegraph’s beauty editor at large, I’ve had some of the world’s best make-up artists show me a thing or two – these are the best smoky tips I’ve ever been told.

Panda eyes be gone

This may sound obvious but I only learned recently to apply eye make-up before concealer and powder in order to clean up any fallout from your eyeshadow at the end

21-year-old Billie EIlish in heavy eye make up at the Met Gala - Getty
21-year-old Billie EIlish in heavy eye make up at the Met Gala - Getty

Begin with a neutral shadow

Start with a skin colour eyeshadow over eyelids before you begin applying darker shades. This not only neutralises tiny veins and discolouration, it gives you something to build upon which helps to avoid patchiness. It’s sensible to invest in a smoky eye palette, one that includes a few shades that you can layer.

‘Pack on’ the colour

Once you’ve created a neutral base, go in with a deep brown eyeshadow (matte is best) at the outer corner of your eyelids and gradually move into the socket (higher than you think) keeping mainly to the outer corners, blending no more than two thirds in. Apply a little, sit back and look at your eyes open.

Then add a touch more as required. For this step it’s best to pat and press the eyeshadow into the skin gently – this is referred to as packing on the colour – then, using a “clean” tapered blending brush (we like Morphe M506 Tapered Mini Blender Brush, £8), softly meld the pigment into the skin in tiny inward circles to prevent the particles flying. The best brush for packing is a small flat-ish eyeshadow brush. NARS small eyeshadow brush, £29, is just the right size.

Lining for softness

Using a small, precise brush, line underneath the eyes with the same dark-brown eyeshadow starting from the outside corner of the lower lash line towards the middle (again, no more than two thirds in depending on your eye shape and size). Some like a sharp-angled brush for this but, as long as it’s small enough to be precise, any brush will do.

Naomi Campbell, 52, at the 2023 Met Gala - getty
Naomi Campbell, 52, at the 2023 Met Gala - getty

Use black as an accent only

While smoky eyes appear to be all black, it’s used sparingly. Once you’ve built up from nude to deep brown, you can apply a small amount of black eyeshadow at the outer corners, mainly to create intensity, especially for evening. But it’s not necessary. Black mascara will pull everything together at the end creating a framework and definition.

Treat each eye differently

Your eyes are not symmetrical, therefore your eyeshadow application shouldn’t be either. If one eyelid is more hooded (droopy) than the other, then you can create more of a lift on that eye by packing on a tiny bit more brown or black shadow to the outer crease line on and just above the orbital bone. A general rule for hooded eyes is to take the eyeshadow higher on the crease, but not as far as the brows, to draw your eye upwards and disguise crepiness.

Lining for definition

By now you’ve created a soft eyeliner look on the lower lash line with powder eyeshadow. Now, using a soft pencil in deep brown or black, line inside the top water line (this feels strange to begin with, but is worth doing as it makes all the difference). If your eyes are wide, you can line inside the bottom waterline too but, if your goal is to open and lift, then stick to the top. Next, draw the pencil onto the top eyelid close to and in between roots of the lashes from the outside in as you’ve done on the bottom with your shadow.

Florence Pugh, 27, in striking headwear at the Met Gala - getty
Florence Pugh, 27, in striking headwear at the Met Gala - getty

Highlight

Once you’ve layered on enough intensity with your deeper shade of choice – and blended with a clean brush in between each layer – now you can pack on a shimmery (not sparkly) shade to the centre of the eyelids in a medium tone, and/or a lighter shade just beneath the brow bone and on the inner corner of the eyes. This will create depth and bounce the light. If in doubt stick to a matte finish which is generally more flattering.

Finishing touches

With a clean fluffy blending brush such as NARS Blending Brush, £26, delicately merge the colours into the skin seamlessly. Take your time here: the idea is not to move the shadow around so much as to undo the structure you’ve just created, but to make sure there’s no obvious patches.

Curl lashes if you normally do so, apply plenty of black mascara. Then check whether you need any additional touches to the outer corners in particular, which may now be obscured by your eyelashes. Apply under-eye corrector and concealer, press into the skin with a finger or the pointy end of a beauty blender, and set with a translucent powder.

Only got five minutes?

Then ignore all of the above. Apply a soft kohl pencil to the top lash line and inside the top water line. Take a finger and press and smudge into the eyelids, blending upwards until you’ve got the right amount of smokiness. Repeat as necessary. Coat lashes in mascara and off you go.

The 7 best smoky eye products for any age

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Best ageless smoky eye palette

Makeup by Mario Master Mattes Eyeshadow Palette £52

All mattes in a curated selection of neutrals, you can’t go wrong

Best eye pencil for smudging

Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal Liner in Cocoa £26 

The most recommended eye pencil, brown is a no brainer, but try the jewel tones for summer

Most longwearing mascara

Estee Lauder Double Wear Zero-Smudge Lengthening Mascara £23.80

Deeply impactful with plenty of pigment, this lengthens and separates without budging

Best brush set for hooded eyes

Morphe X Ariel Signature Eyes Eye Brush Set £48

A great value set with every brush size and shape you need to create flawless eyeshadow looks

Best undereye corrector

Jones Road Face Pencil £24

Neutralise imperfections before you apply concealer for a natural look. Generally, peachy tones work on fair skin to diffuse dark circles, deeper skin tones need a bright orange or reddish shade. Shades 6, 11, 13, and 17 are great neutralisers.

Best undereye concealer

Kosas Revealer Concealer £25 

Packed with skincare properties, this doubles as an eye cream, covers and brightens flawlessly

Best powder for setting under eyes

Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Brightening Flawless Finish Powder £38

With blurring technology, this clever under eye powder is as fine as they come while illuminating and brightening subtly


Will you join the smoky eye trend? Let us know in the comments below