Why all men should wear pink
Pink had loaded connotations for one of literature’s most renowned flaneurs, Mr Jay Gatsby. He can’t be “an Oxford man”, reasons Tom Buchanan, embittered husband of fashion plate Daisy; “Like hell he is! He wears a pink suit.” Skip forward a century, and the cuckold Buchanan would be horrified to discover that pink is an acceptable masculine choice in 2023.
Its latest moment in the spotlight comes courtesy of Ryan Gosling, who’s playing the veritable Prince of Pink, Ken – the boyfriend of Barbie – in Greta Gerwig’s new film about the perma-fuschia doll. Gosling’s been well-and-truly camping it up on the press junket trail in a series of pink ensembles, the latest being a rather cheap-looking pink fleece with beachy, tousled hair fresh from the Malibu surf. It follows other pink iterations; Smart Pink Ken in blush trousers and lilac blazer, and Serious Pink Ken in a black suit with bubble-gum hued shirt.
He’s not alone; over the past year Brad Pitt, Seth Rogan, Idris Elba and Donald Glover have all been gracing red carpets in rosy-hued outfits. It’s particularly pleasing that these men are steadfastly masculine in their general style, showing how outdated the tired old tropes are about pink being a “girly” colour. Because, historically, pink was never about femininity; thanks to the expense of dyes in the 18th century, to wear pink was a display of wealth and prowess, as depicted in the paintings of Gainsborough and the Renaissance painters.
It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution – with its uniforms of blacks and greys for men – that pastels became synonymous with women. We could write reams about the politics of pink – Westminster School famously fought for the right of its rowers to wear pink against Eton in the 1800s.
There have been champions of this most controversial of colours over the years: Elvis was no stranger to a magenta blazer, Robert Redford’s Gatsby seduced in a baby-pink suit, Sean Connery’s Bond even embraced a touch of flamingo-tinged flamboyance. Bowie looked debonair in salmon and David Hockney in the 1990s rocked the clashing combinations of coral and scarlet. So pink’s got form amongst men; the King is even a fan of its power to lift an outfit by way of accessories. But how best to wear it?
Be mindful of skin tone
Be brutal about that British pallor of yours. Pale skin can look good with soft shades of pink, if you pick a particularly delicate variant of the shade. But if you’re remotely rosy, pink can lend a rather gammony effect overall. Bright or darker shades can be tricky with pallid complexions, so darker skin works better with the more vibrant end of the pink spectrum. If you’re looking for an easy “in” with pink – it can be intimidating for the uninitiated – consider a pale pink scarf, which warms up older complexions and grey hair.
Keep it clean
Speaking as someone who owns a pair of pink sequinned trousers, if you want to go thoroughly all out, by all means shake your peacock feathers. But most men don’t want to go the Dame Edna (God rest her soul) route; a clean, sharp look is the best way to temper such a bold colour. For example, a sharply cut shirt, a tailored pair of trousers or even a pair of socks beneath a beige pair of chinos. And on that note…
Consider what to wear it with
Pink has some harmonious bedfellows in the colour spectrum; caramel and coffee tones look great with it, as do steely greys. For example, a stone-shaded suit with a pale pink shirt, or beige trench coat with a pink scarf. King Charles uses pink touches with grey morning suits; pocket squares and ties in blush tones to lend a softer stance to what can be a severe outfit.
The perfectly pink situation
Look, I get that you’re unlikely to chair a meeting at a City law firm in a coral suit. The wearing of pink calls for a particular setting; summer, preferably, as the perfect accompaniment to garden parties or The Chelsea Flower Show. A light pink suit against the setting sun of a continental wedding can look great, likewise a pink and blue striped rugby top against a Cornish backdrop on holiday or pair of pink cords for cheering on the Henley Regatta.
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