Why Italian older men’s style is as potent as a doppio espresso

As a card carrying Italophile, I hold my hands up; I’m entirely biased about the country’s particular USPs. Whether it’s the spellbinding magic of her landscapes, from undulating Tuscan hillsides to Puglian trulli dotting olive groves, the simple perfection of her cuisine, the lyricism of the language or the generosity of its people, it’s known as La Bel Paese for a reason.

And then there’s the style Italiano, which on the streets of glacial Firenze last week was on full, splendid display. This is Pitti Uomo, a men’s fashion fair that began in the 1950s as a fabric trade show and has blossomed into a bi-annual showcase of the power and prowess of Made in Italy. Not for nothing has a whole breed of sartorial showmen proliferated; the so-called ‘Pitti Peacocks’ who posture and preen for the cameras in their co-ordinated suits, polished monkstrap shoes and trilbies tilted just so. It’s all a tad silly but, oh, it’s a joy to watch unfold.

But what Firenze and her stylish citizens do so well is demonstrating how deftly older men of a certain vintage can negotiate their wardrobes. As an early 40s man, it’s encouraging, as the designers and industry denizens who frequent Pitti - away from those showboating dandies mentioned above - are masterclasses in how men can look assured, elegant and immaculate without seeming overly done.

As potent as a doppio espresso, and as inviting as the soft glow and warm bonhomie of Florentine institution Alla Vecchio Bettola (the vodka penne pasta is the stuff of sorcery), it’s a way of dressing into your 50s/60s/70s and beyond that neither shouts in the style of Gen Z – all those rimless 90s shades, bucket hats and cult trainers – nor is invisible, when British men of a certain vintage tend to fade into the background. So how to age gracefully in the manner of an Italian sprezzatura-style uomo?

Keep things smart

Perhaps the best advert for stylish men over 70 is Brunello Cucinelli, the reigning grand doge of Pitti Uomo who last year marked the milestone in a grand celebration at his Umbrian home. Cucinelli launched his autumn/winter 2025 collection in Florence, and his own style is something for men in older years to take note of; smart but comfortable.

Yes, his jackets are crafted in the best cashmere money can buy, but it’s the message rather than the price point; a relaxed blazer with perhaps a denim shirt of a classic starched variety feels a bit ‘office’, or worn with knitwear.

Older fellows don’t tend to want to frighten the fashion horses, but this is a mode of dressing that’s upright without the seriousness of dressing in a corporate way. Soft smart, if you will, for men who’ve reached an age where they don’t want to feel trussed-up.

Express yourself in small ways

At Pitti, it’s not so much the flamboyant showboating that’s stylish – no matter how entertaining – but the men who wear classic clothes but add a touch of their own personality. A herringbone coat in standard grey, for example, but with a characterful Borsalino fedora.

Or a scarf, but with a point of difference – a jolt of print, or swaddling and oversized in blanket form. Add a pair of gloves, but perhaps tuck them into your chest pocket for a hint of sprezzatura flair.

Use heritage patterns to make a point

“I’m 44 now, and while I occasionally wish I was 35 again, your clothing changes with you and I believe men now want clothing to last,” says Alessio Piastrelli, one of the board directors of Brunello Cucinelli.

Italian men care about the small details of silhouette and construction, and the power of the materials themselves to do the talking rather than wearing shouty ‘trends’. It’s an appreciation that’s classically British too; both countries have a rich history in the fabric industry and produce the best. So older Italian men appreciate and wear heritage with aplomb; shaggy mohair jackets, tweed suits. They also aren’t afraid of the bold motifs and weaves that are so distinctive; herringbone, Donegal tweed, houndstooth, Prince of Wales checks. The patterns are a subtle way to make an impact, as an older guy who might not want to wear the most hifalutin’ Loewe, while remaining classic.

Consider cut too. There’s an ease and looseness to Italian clothing that’s particularly pertinent for an older chap who may have amassed some fine timber over the decades. Coats with soft shoulders and more gentle proportions are a lot kinder.

Don’t fade to black

The colourways of Pitti Uomo, and of Florence in general with her buttery and sepia toned buildings, is to stick to shades of Italian coffee e biscotti; espresso and cappuccino shades, touches of nutmeg, fawn, cinnamon and stone. For older men, it’s much kinder and softer than severe black, which can be draining and ageing, especially against grey hair.

Stick to the affogato end of the scale for a warmer effect that’s much more harmonious with a chap’s stately sweep of silver.

Italians of every generation do it better.