Advertisement

Where to have a really wild holiday on British shores

Mar Lodge - alamy
Mar Lodge - alamy

‘It’s known as the ecology of fear,” Our guide, Laurie, grins. “The sense something might leap out from behind a tree and eat you.” In truth, I’m not expecting a lion or a leopard to leap out in front of me, but I am enjoying the frisson of walking through an emerging wilderness that just 20 years ago was a monoculture of grain fields and dairy herds.

Inspired by the explosion of wildlife in the British countryside during lockdown, I have joined a group of 10 rewilding enthusiasts on a walking safari at the Knepp Estate on the River Adur in deepest, darkest West Sussex. The brainchild of owners Charlie Burrell and Isabella Tree, Knepp is one of the largest rewilding projects in lowland Europe, a byword for the magic that can happen when humans take their hands off the tiller and let nature decide what course to steer.

During the Second World War, Knepp played an important part in the “Dig for Victory” campaign when huge swathes of southern Britain were given over to food production. But when Charlie inherited the estate in the early 1980s, the post-war intensive farming model had only resulted in spiralling debt.

During our three-hour walk, we see groups of red, fallow, and roe deer as well as solo stags sporting gigantic antlers, battle-ready for the forthcoming rutting season. In the deep blue skies above, buzzards and peregrine falcons circle in thermals as the giant wings of four white storks whirr over our heads, their beaks making a distinctive clacking sound as they land in the surrounding trees.

Making their way through the “bush” – the comparison with the ­African savannah seems increasingly apt – we encounter English longhorn cattle and Tamworth pigs with their piglets cooling off in a muddy pond. In Wilding, her book about Knepp, Isabella explains how the animals that have been introduced are proxies for the free-roaming animals that lived here years ago.

Knepp
Knepp

The now-extinct auroch, for example, was a giant species of long-horned cattle. Today, Exmoor ponies have replaced the ancient tarpan and the Tamworth pigs, wild boar. The behaviours of these modern-day inhabitants of Knepp are similar to those of their forebears. They are grazers and browsers, “heavy-hitting disturbers” as Isabella calls them, which open up niches for other life, resulting in an explosion of biodiversity. “Let these free-roaming animals disturb, trample, rootle, snap branches,” she says.

Chief among the rare or endangered species that are now flourishing at Knepp are the turtle doves of The Twelve Days of Christmas fame, nightingales, cuckoos, the exotic purple emperor butterfly and 13 out of the 18 species of UK bats. In spring, Laurie conducts a bird survey for 10 days in succession starting at 4.30am, and she tells us the dawn chorus is deafening.

This autumn, after a licence was granted by Natural England, an exciting new chapter in Knepp’s evolution will begin when two pairs of beavers will be released into the Adur for the first time in 400 years. Beavers are hugely effective at creating water-systems that are able to purify water, store it, and protect against devastating floods. They are known as a “keystone species” due to the hugely beneficial effect they have on their surrounding ecosystem and the biodiversity they help to create and maintain.

Knepp
Knepp

Their ability to stimulate nature’s creativity has been well-documented in another rewilding success story in Devon, where the Devon Wildlife Trust and the University of Exeter studied the effect of a colony of beavers on the River Otter’s ecosystem. Beavers create habitats that allow hundreds of other species to return and flourish.

The study found the local fish population increased while flooding was reduced, resulting in the Government’s recent decision to allow the beavers to colonise other rivers in Devon.

Amplified by the claustrophobia of lockdown, the call of the wild is being answered all over Britain with staycationers seeking out revitalised wildernesses. High-profile rewilding projects include the Alladale Estate in Scotland where philanthropist owner, Paul Lister, known locally as “The Wolf Man”, has experimented with bringing back elk, buffalo and wild boar. He dreams of reintroducing wolves and lynx to the 23,000-acre estate, which is also an ­active participant in the recovery of the threatened Scottish wildcat.

 English longhorn cattle
English longhorn cattle

Scotland is also home to the Glenfeshie Estate, 30 miles south of Inverness, where Edwin Landseer painted his famous The Monarch of the Glen in 1851. Ironically, as recorded by the Romans, it was the high density of deer eating every tree seedling that all but destroyed the ancient Caledonian forest. But since an initially controversial culling process began in 2004, the woodland has begun to regenerate with Scots pine, birch and juniper, which now carpet the glen. These ­provide the perfect habitat for hares and many other native species to recolonise. As well as the option of ­staying at the estate itself, walkers can stay free of charge at the traditional mountain bothy, which has recently been refurbished.

In Wales, volunteers and school groups can visit the Cambrian Wildwood, a community woodland and habitat restoration project in the Cambrian Mountains in West Wales. Here the team are restoring native woodland and other natural habitats and plan to reintroduce some of the missing native species. Following the introduction of wild horses, the number of bird species is also increasing. Last year, skylarks returned to the moorland and snipe are now regulars, alongside merlin (a small falcon not much bigger than a blackbird), and the increasingly rare grasshopper warbler.

Britain's rare species
Britain's rare species

In a world where a degraded natural environment has increasingly become the norm, rewilding offers real hope for the future – not only of the planet, but the human spirit.

Britain rewilded

Alladale Wilderness Reserve, Highlands

Located in dramatic highland landscape, Alladale Wilderness Reserve is now home to otters, red squirrels and mountain hares, while wildcats are being bred for eventual release. Birds of prey include golden and white-tailed eagles, ospreys, buzzards and peregrine falcons. Alladale has three fully catered lodges for groups of between two and 30 guests.

Alladale Wilderness Reserve
Alladale Wilderness Reserve

Seven nights in September staying at ­Alladale Lodge costs £247.50pppn for groups of six to 12, inclusive of all meals, a private chef and concierge (01863 755338; alladale.com).

Cambrian Wildwood, Mid Wales

This community wildwood project run by Wales Wild Land Foundation focuses on 350 acres of moorland and ancient woodland, aiming to encourage populations of native species such as pine martens, red squirrels, wild boar, water voles and beavers. Wild horses are also being introduced to encourage more plant biodiversity.

Volunteer workdays are scheduled to take place once a month and are slated to start up again in September (cambrianwildwood.org).

Fritton Lake, East Anglia

Fritton Lake is a holiday retreat situated on a two-mile long lake on the ­Somerleyton estate in East Anglia. Working in conjunction with Rewilding Britain, a fifth of the estate (1,000 acres) has now been turned over to ­nature as part of a wider ambition – The Wild East Project (wildeast.co.uk), a pioneering scheme which is helping to return three million acres of the region into “one of the biggest, best connected, and restored nature reserves in the world.”

Fritton Lake
Fritton Lake

A cabin sleeping up to six adults for a week in September costs from £1,589 (01493 484008; fritton-lake.co.uk).

Glenfeshie, Cairngorms

At the heart of one of Scotland’s most beautiful glens, Glenfeshie is home to sea eagles and pine martens, while beavers are once again revitalising forest and loch.

A six-night nature experience with Wilderness Scotland visiting local rewilding sites of forest, peatland and wetland in the company of an expert guide costs from £1,395pp sharing, including six nights’ accommodation, all meals, transfers and guides (01479 898528; wildernessscotland.com).

Wild Ennerdale, Cumbria

The Ennerdale Valley is located in a secluded north-western corner of the Lake District National Park. Since the formation of Wild Ennerdale in 2003, native broadleaves have regenerated the forest and overgrazing by sheep has been reduced. The valley is now home to red squirrel, pied flycatcher, tree pipit, wood warbler, ring ouzel, wheatear, skylark, snipe, England’s largest population of marsh fritillary butterflies and the UK’s only migrating population of Arctic char.

Ennerdale - NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MALLEY
Ennerdale - NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MALLEY

A range of accommodation is available including a choice of B&Bs, two YHAs, a bothy, a field centre and pubs (wildennerdale.co.uk).

Cetacean & Seabird Cruise, The Minch

A cruise aboard the MV Monadhliath crosses The Minch, the channel of water between the Scottish mainland and the Isles of Lewis and Harris, recognised as one of Europe’s hot spots for seabirds and cetaceans. The latter include minke whales, four species of dolphin, porpoises, fin whales, humpbacks and orcas.

A two-night cruise in May 2021 with ­Rewilding Escapes costs from £849 ­including all meals and activities (01540 580015; scotlandbigpicture.com/rewildingescapes).

Embercombe Rewilding Retreats, Exeter

Embercombe is a 50-acre rewilding ­estate on the edge of Dartmoor that runs programmes, retreats, courses and events from equinox and solstice experience weekends to fire ceremonies, shamanic weekends, family camps, wild cooking courses and week-long yurt stays. Their courses ­include indigenous wisdom, coaching, mindfulness, community and bodywork.

Costs from £125pp for a weekend (01647 252983; embercombe.org).

Otter
Otter

Trees for life, Highlands

Trees for Life is an award-winning charity whose mission is to rewild the Scottish Highlands by restoring its ­ancient forests. The 10,000-acre Dundreggan Estate has been rewilding since 2008. A major rewilding and visitor centre with accommodation for 40 volunteers, students and researchers, has received planning permission and will open in 2022.

Conservation Weeks for paying volunteers are expected to run again in 2021 and will cost from £435 a week (01309 691292; treesforlife.org.uk).

Wicken Fen, Cambridgeshire

Made up of wet grasslands, reed beds and open water, Wicken Fen is the National Trust’s oldest nature reserve and one of Europe’s most important wetlands. Since the start of rewilding more than 20 years ago, migrating birds, short-eared owls and lapwings have returned.

Only accessible by walking or cycling, the fen has four open-fronted log shelters, each sleeping six adults or eight children with no tent required. The campsite will reopen on Sept 30. Prices from £40pp per night (01353 720274; nationaltrust.org.uk; wickenwildcamping@nationaltrust.org.uk).

Mar Lodge, Cairngorms

Mar Lodge is a 70,000-acre estate in the Cairngorms National Park made up of ancient pine forest, blanket bog, moorland and high altitude plateau including four of the five highest peaks in Scotland. It is also the home of species including golden eagle, capercaillie, dotterel, snow bunting and the pine marten.

Mar Lodge - alamy
Mar Lodge - alamy

The estate is managed by the National Trust for Scotland and is free to visit (0131 458 0200; nts.org.uk).

Naturetrek day trips

Specialists in wildlife holidays, ­Naturetrek are now running day trips to unique wildlife and rewilding ­locations all around the UK. Locations to consider include the Forest of Dean, the New Forest, Dartmoor and the Northumberland Coast among many others.

From £50pp per day (01962 733051; naturetrek.co.uk).

Rewildling: How to get involved
Rewildling: How to get involved
Details for Knepp

Half-day safaris at Knepp, focusing on individual species, cost from £40. Midweek two-night stays in a range of huts, bell-tents, yurts and treehouses cost from £200 during the high season (Jul/Aug). Three-night stays are also available (01403 713230; kneppsafaris.co.uk).

Wilding, The Return of Nature to a British Farm by Isabella Tree is published by Picador £9.99. (panmacmillan.com).