A weekend break in... Malaga
A guide to short breaks in Malaga, Spain, including the best bars, restaurants, hotels and things to do.
Why go now?
With a reputed 320 days of sunshine a year and a city centre packed full of historic and artistic attractions, Malaga is the perfect sunny but stimulating getaway. As the birthplace and early inspiration of Pablo Picasso, it reflects the eclectic and sometimes peculiar nature of his work; wandering around the centre’s cobbled streets can feel like a fast track degree in modern art. Malaga continues to lure creative souls, and this year welcomes three artistic attractions. A branch of The St Petersburg State Russian Museum is newly opened in a converted tobacco factory at Avenida Sor Teresa Prat 15 (00 34 951 926 150; coleccionmuseoruso.es), showcasing art from the 15th to the 20th centuries; meanwhile, the Pompidou Centre will open its first base outside France this spring, in a glamorous glass cube at Muelle Uno on the waterfront (centrepompidou.es). Completing the trio of cultural treats will be Malaga’s new Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology, re-opening later this year.
Getting there
Malaga is serviced from a wide range of UK airports. I flew with easyJet (0330 365 5000; easyjet.com), which flies from 10 UK airports. Buses from Malaga airport to the city centre leave from just outside arrivals every 30 minutes, and one-way tickets can be bought from the driver for €3.
Where to stay
Special treat
Malaga’s only five-star hotel, Vincci Posada del Patio at 7 Pasillo de Santa Isabel (0034 951 053 970; vinccihoteles.com) is positioned perfectly in the heart of the historical centre, and oozes modern luxury. Doubles from €160 (£117) including breakfast.
Check availability: Vincci Posada del Patio, Malaga
Mid-range
Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro at the corner of Camino de Gibralfaro (0034 952 221 902; parador.es) is perched on the hilltop opposite the Alcazaba and provides stunning views of Malaga and the Mediterranean. Doubles from €100 (£73), room only.
Check availability: Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro, Malaga
On a budget
Hotel Don Curro at 9 Sancha de Lara (0034 952 215 946; hoteldoncurro.com) is just a few steps from one of Malaga’s main shopping streets Calle Larios, and all of the main tourist sites are within a short walk. Doubles from €92 (£68), including breakfast.
Check availability: Hotel Don Curro, Malaga
On arrival
5pm
Twist and turn your way through archways and past towering turrets en route to the top of the Alcazaba de Malaga, found via the entrance on Calle Alcazabilla (0034 630 932 987; admission €2.20/£1.60) in time to catch the evening light. Dating back to the 11th century, this was the palace of Malaga’s former Muslim rulers.
9pm
Experience some of Malaga’s finest food and drink at the Patio de Beatas at Calle Beatas 43 (0034 952 210 350; lospatiosdebeatas.com), where British head chef Christopher Gould and sommelier Julian Sanjuan pair together regional flavours with specially selected olive oils and wines. It’s very popular, so call ahead to make a reservation.
Day One
10am
Prepare for the day with a traditional Spanish breakfast of churros (€1.50/£1.10 for six fried dough nuts) and a cup of thick hot chocolate (€2.30/£1.70) at Café Central at Plaza de la Constitución 11 (0034 952 224 972; cafecentralmalaga.com). This is one of the oldest and best-known cafés in Malaga, and is popular with locals and tourists alike.
11am
Take a short stroll over to the Mercado Central de Atarazanas, where fresh fish and exotic foods catch the eye at every turn. Tasting is encouraged by the market sellers, so get ready for plenty of unexpected stops.
12pm
Hire a bike from the cycle station at Plaza Marina and cruise east along the seafront cycle path to the small fishing village suburb of Pedregalejo. Here you’ll find tiny waves lapping against the sandy beach and fishermen pulling in the day’s catch.
1pm
Taste some of the freshest seafood in Spain at El Cabra at Paseo Marítimo El Pedregal 17 (0034 952 291 595; restauranteelcabra.es) while overlooking the glistening Mediterranean. The coquinas (cockles fried in oil and parsley) are sensational, while the cool sea breeze makes it a welcome relief from the heat of the city centre.
3.30pm
Back in the city, take your pick of some of the art on offer at either the St Petersburg State Russian Museum or the Paris Pompidou Centre (centrepompidou.es).
5pm
Then it’s time to unwind at the Hamman Al Andalus at Plaza de los Mártires 5 (0034 952 215 018; malaga.hammamalandalus.com) with a dip into the many heated baths. Originally brought to Andalusia by the Moors in the 8th century, the baths are the perfect way to freshen up. Bathing plus a 15-minute massage cost €43 (£33).
8pm
Follow in the footsteps of film stars, heads of state and Picasso himself at the nearby El Pimpi restaurant on Calle Granada (0034 952 228 990; elpimpi.com). Giant oak barrels full of sweet wine leave a fragrant aroma hanging in the air, and the seafood menu is both vast and reasonably priced.
Day 2
9am
Start your day at Europe’s largest botanical gardens (0034 951 926 180; laconcepcion.malaga.eu) and marvel at the thousands of different plant and tree species. This lost world on the edge of the city is perfect for a relaxing walk or a picnic. A metred taxi will cost you €6-8 (£4.40-5.90) to get there and admission costs €5.20. (£4)
11am
Marvel at the changing styles of prolific Pablo Picasso at the Picasso Museum at Palacio de Buenavista San Agustín 8 (0034 902 443 377;museopicassomalaga.org). Spanning everything from his well-known Cubist paintings to surreal sculptures and sketches, here you can see just how diverse, resourceful and talented Picasso really was. Admission is €6 (£4.40).
1pm
Get revved up at the city’s impressive new Automobile Museum at Avenida Sor Teresa Prat 15 (0034 951 137 001; museoautomovilmalaga.com). This celebration of car culture and history also includes fashion exhibitions and installations. Admission is €7.50 (£5.50)
A post shared by @museo_automovilistico_malaga on Mar 18, 2017 at 7:57am PDT
3pm
Finally, feast on stunning views and delicious Andalusian food at the Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro restaurant (0034 952 221 902; parador.es). The menu is packed full of Spanish dishes, and includes lots of fresh seafood. There’s also a beautiful shaded veranda that encircles the restaurant, making it the perfect place for a long and lazy lunch on a warm day.
Malaga checklist:
1. For more information, see malagaturismo.com or drop into the tourist office at Plaza de la Marina.
2. The first 30 minutes of every journey are free on Malaga’s new hire bikes. Visit malagabici.malaga.eu for more information.
3. By avoiding the central squares in favour of side streets, you can often buy coffee and churros at half the price.
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