How to shop for the perfect vintage wedding dress
Vintage fashion is having its moment. From archival looks on the red carpet from Zendaya, to a second-hand Gucci street style look worn by Hailey Bieber, to Princess Beatrice's reworked Norman Hartnell gown once worn by her grandmother – second-hand fashion is gaining popularity, and rightly so when it comes to looking after the planet.
As a nation, the UK buys more clothes per person than any other country in Europe and around 300,000 tonnes of used clothes are burned or buried in landfills each year according to Greenpeace, which is having a huge negative environmental impact. But choosing vintage means giving items a new lease of life and making use of what’s already available, rather than opting for something brand new and ultimately resulting in more waste.
Much like the celebrity world, shoppers are investing in the exciting world of second-hand, as the use of the search term "vintage" has more than doubled on fashion shopping app Lyst in the past year, with designer brands such as Mulger and Jean Paul Gaultier being especially popular. This trend is making its way into the bridal industry too, with interest in vintage wedding and bridal dresses jumping up 39 per cent year on year.
Brides are increasingly making greener choices when it comes to their wedding day, as not only are vintage dresses gaining popularity, but renting them too. “Bridal rentals have continued to receive significant interest on the By Rotation app,” founder Esthia Davis tells me. “Our ‘Something Borrowed’ collection includes the must-have accessories, such as Manolo Blahnik and Amina Muaddi heels, Shrimps bags, Simone Rocha hairbands and more.
“The collection has received +700 per cent views year on year, which is only to grow given the staggering number of weddings we expect. With our Marylebone pop-up store offering bridal and bridesmaid appointments, we have had many brides come in to try and ultimately rent out vintage wedding gowns and Halfpenny's exclusive bridesmaid rental collaboration with us.”
If you’re wanting to go down the vintage route for your upcoming nuptials, then follow our tips below according to the experts.
Keep in mind smaller imperfections
Part of the beauty of vintage is every piece has a previous owner and interesting story, which is even more true when it comes to a vintage wedding dress. Of course, with this comes smaller imperfections that you don’t get with off-the-rack or brand-new items. When shopping in-store at vintage boutiques, make sure to ask about the fabrics and how easy it is to clean if there’s any stains or marks on the piece. Sometimes all an item needs is a freshen up to feel brand new.
“When you have invested in a new second-hand item, start off with washing the garment,” explains Frej Lewenhaupt, CEO and co-founder of Steamery Stockholm - a care brand that works to extend the lifespan of garments.
“Always follow the instructions on the care label or, if it’s a delicate material, you might have to hand wash your new treasure. Make sure to wash the garment, remove pilling, cut off loose threads and steam it. You could finish off with using a discreetly scented fabric spray to give the garment a fresh scent.”
Shopping online is a little trickier, as you can’t get a real feel for a piece, so take extra time to read the small print when buying vintage online. “Make sure to read the description of the dress thoroughly to determine the condition. Any tears, marks or stains might be difficult to fix or dry-clean,” notes Erin Gunn, Private Client stylist at Farfetch.
Size up and find a good tailor
“An important thing to note is that vintage sizing typically runs smaller than regular clothing, depending on the decade, explains Gunn. “So first measure yourself accurately and pay special attention to the sizing measurements on site.”
She adds: “Trust in your tailor, not many people can buy off the rack without alterations. I would also suggest sizing up as it's much easier for your tailor to take something in than to have to release fabric.”
Take inspiration from Princess Beatrice and upcycle a gown into something new that works better for your taste and body type. Beatrice added puff sleeves, while the underskirts and bubble hem were removed and replaced with a silk trim.
Keep an open mind
When Molly Whitehall first got engaged, she knew she wanted something vintage. “I love vintage clothes and loved the idea of finding a one-of-a-kind dress that has a story and has lived a life before me, she told Bazaar. “Vintage felt like such a special and unique option for a wedding dress.”
Whitehall, who found her dream dress from William Vintage, notes that it’s important to keep an open mind. “Try and embrace vintage for everything that it is - unique, special, full of character and story, sustainable,” she says. “It may have its imperfections but that is all part of its unique charm and story.”
“On the morning of my wedding when I put it on, it made me think of who might have worn it in the 1930’s and imaging who she was and what her wedding day was like,” she recalls. “The small imperfections are what makes it unique and gives it its story. That’s the beauty of vintage.”
Michele Cote also opted for vintage on her big day and echoes Whitehall’s advice: “Keep an open mind for what you want when it comes to going vintage, since everything is one of a kind, it can be fund to find different colours and challenge the definition of what a wedding dress means to you.”
"I found my dress from 1st Dibs, but if something is out of budget it can be a great place to look for inspiration."
Think outside the box
Just because you’re on the hunt for a vintage wedding dress, it doesn’t mean you can’t expand your search outside of bridal to find the perfect ensemble.
Second-hand retailer Vestairie Collective suggests researching different eras, finding out what you like and then searching online with key words rather than going down the ‘wedding dress’ route.
“Searching key terms of styles you might be looking for such as crochet, lace, Seventies-style romantic dresses, or designers of note like Grès or others you know you like, are all great ways to discover styles that aren’t necessarily meant to be for weddings but will work,” advises the site.
"My personal tip would be to not solely search for vintage bridal gowns but expand this into a broader range of vintage pieces that could work as a wedding outfit,” expands Alice Hebrard Lemaire, vintage expert at Vestiaire Collective. “I’m getting married in a 1971 YSL rive gauche trousers and blouse ensemble, which was part of the ready-to-wear collection and just happens to be white, but it’s more importantly, elegant.
“I would also recommend not only looking for labels, but also for handmade pieces. Until the Eighties and the increase of ready-to-wear, a lot of people were either sewing themselves, or working with “Couturières” to create unique looks, in very nice fabrics. They are worth looking at.”
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