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The trench coat: a brief history of the outerwear icon

The term "classic" is bandied around far too much these days, but when it comes to outerwear icons, there is no style more deserving of the title than the trench coat. The creamy beige, double-breasted design transcends way beyond its associations with bumbling detectives and WWI trenches – the trench coat wearer is ready to take on the world.

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Brigitte-Bardot-Trench-Coat
Brigitte-Bardot-Trench-Coat

Brigitte Bardot in a trench coat on the set of Une Ravissante Idiote

The style oozes sophistication – the sartorial equivalent of paying your bills ahead of time rather than immediately spunking your paycheck. We don't make the rules, but if you own a trench coat, you almost definitely have your life together. Now that's science.

Reworked-Dior-Trench-Coat
Reworked-Dior-Trench-Coat

Dior AW22/23

Throwing on a trench coat makes you look automatically presentable and put together – and we reckon its magic lies in its infinite versatility. Hardcore minimalists will already be well-versed in the joys of a neutral coat, but for those with outerwear collections in need of an update, trenches are wonderfully egalitarian.

Silver-Trench-Coat
Silver-Trench-Coat

Michael Kors Collection AW22

Patterned, glossy, colour-blocked, patent – there is a style out there for everyone.

How did the trench coat get its name?

The name refers to the fact that the garment was worn by soldiers in the First World War, although the style’s origins derive from long before. During wartime, the coat was perhaps less common than one might think – trenches were an optional piece of uniform in the British Army. They were worn by officers and Warrant Officers Class I who could afford to buy one, but otherwise, they were not permitted among other ranks.

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RELATED: 10 cape coats to switch up your outerwear

The origin of the trench coat

 

Burberry-Trench-Coat-History
Burberry-Trench-Coat-History

Typically crafted from waterproof, durable fabric, trench coats were developed as an alternative to heavier duty serge greatcoats. Two British luxury retailers stake a claim for the invention of the trench – Burberry and Aquascutum.

The need for a lightweight, practical coat with decent water-repelling abilities was clear. Men's lifestyles involved much physical activity – hunting, fishing, riding, you name it.

Aquascutum's founder (its name meaning 'water shield' in Latin) John Emary created the first-ever waterproof wool in the 1850s and then, a few decades later Thomas Burberry, founder of his eponymous label, invented gabardine – a tightly-woven twill fabric – in 1879. But exactly who got there first? Who can say for sure – you had to be there.

Humphrey-Bogart-Trench-Coat
Humphrey-Bogart-Trench-Coat

Humphrey Bogart in the 1940s

Trench-wearing icons over the years have included both male and female stars from the silver screen – think Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart as well as leading ladies Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren in Breakfast at Tiffany's and The Key respectively. Plus, who could possibly forget Peter Sellers' marvellous portrayal of idiot detective Inspector Clouseau in the Pink Panther series in his classic belted version.

Sophia-Loren-Trench-Coat
Sophia-Loren-Trench-Coat

Sophia Loren in a trench coat in The Key

The power of the trench is alive and well in 2022 - just ask Olivia Palermo, Naomi Campbell and Kim Kardashian who have all been spotted rocking theirs during fashion month. Time to dig out ours…

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