Trekking the historic Australian river that's rich with scenic rewards

"I’m going to ask you to keep your head torches switched off,” my guide Tony stated as our little boat slowly drifted towards what I hoped, in the darkness of predawn, was a stable river bank. It was a little after 5am and the only light came from the pinpricks of the stars.

Seconds later we hit something and the vessel bounced back a couple of feet before coming to a complete standstill. I felt someone grab my arm for balance and we shuffled on to a sandy pathway at the bottom of a cliff. “Ready?” came the question, then the air was filled with the muffled squeak of our boots feeling their way up the trail.

It was an odd start to the day, and certainly not the usual beginning to one of Australia’s Great Walks – 12 guided hikes known for their luxury touches. But then, this was no usual walk.

Launched in 2016 by local Tony Sharley – a keen birdwatcher, environmentalist and river man who has worked on waterways all over Australia – the walk is intended to show visitors the value of the area known as Riverland, which starts at the New South Wales and Victoria borders and traces a large portion of South Australia’s section of the 1,500-mile (2,500km) Murray River.

This is a region where, in 1887, irrigation was introduced to the former desert. Almost overnight, the arid land blossomed into orchards festooned with citrus fruit, almonds and pistachios, not to mention vineyards. It attracted entrepreneurs from far and wide, looking to get some of the plots of land that were handed out by the Government at the turn of the century.

Co-operatives were formed to ensure growers got fair deals, and dried fruit production boomed during the World Wars. But when cheaper imports in the Seventies threatened the industry, only a handful of companies survived and the population declined (to just 7,500 in Renmark). Those left are now looking to tourism to bring money back into the area – which helps explain Tony’s three-night Murray River Walk, which I was undertaking.

It began with our small boat planing smoothly across the rippling water towards the starting point for the hike. After 45 minutes, we felt far from anyone. Black swans sailed on the surface; coots and moorhens waded around the riverbanks. Somewhere in the trees, the distinct cry of a sulphur crested cockatoo rang shrill and sharp, while a squadron of pelicans rested on a branch.

When we finally set foot on land to begin the first 7.5-mile (12km) section of the 62-mile (100km) route, the sun cracked through the clouds and sent spindles of light between the leaves of black box and red gum trees. Though our luggage was transported to our accommodation, this was still a proper bush walk – and for the next few hours we wandered through pathless scrub led by Tony. As the water flowed alongside us, a regular stream of local insight gushed from our enthused guide.

We stopped to watch western grey kangaroos, and Tony told us about the ecosystem of which they form a vital part. Later we learned about the importance of the cycle of drought and flood that affects the Murray River, which government initiatives try to control – much to the chagrin of environmentalists. As we emerged at the top of the striped Heading Cliffs, we saw our houseboat waiting below. Soon we were gorging ourselves on Riverland cheese and wine before indulging in a three-course meal designed by a top local chef.

“Go easy,” Tony warned, “it’s an early start tomorrow morning.”

That is how we found ourselves strolling in the dark to watch the sunrise from east-facing cliffs at 5am. With each footstep, our eyes adjusted to the dim light until we reached an observation platform just in time to see the pinkish sheen of dawn breaking on the horizon. The only thing that snapped us out of our mesmerised silence was the prospect of hot tea and biscuits served, as if by magic, from Tony’s bag.

The remainder of the day’s walk took us further north around an oxbow bend – the old course of the river – which had been a prime spot for early aboriginal residents. We passed ancient middens of shell and bone – the site of many a feast – and trees with oval sections of bark removed to make canoes and shields. As we walked, we learned the Dreamtime story of Ngurunderi, who is said to have chased a giant cod around here while its sweeping tail widened the river.

Day three took us to Chowilla Creek (pronounced “chowla” – thought to be a bastardisation of the indigenous name “Tjowila”), a rugged stretch filled with honeyeater birds, laughing kookaburras and Australian ringneck parrots. It was beautiful but, as Tony explained, had almost been wiped out by a dam scheme.

As he led us up and over the final rise of the hike, he took out a government-commissioned artist’s impression of what the area would have looked like if the river had been dammed. It was a far cry from the endless mass of healthy green bushland spread out behind us.

Around the corner, the houseboat crew had set up champagne, beer and canapés for us to celebrate the end of the walking section. The last day would see us travel on board the houseboat, ending with a barbecue at a former woolshed which now serves homemade beer. But for now, we all toasted a successful hike and the man who had made it possible.

Tony and his sheer passion for the river had truly shone a light, not just on this area but also its importance to people, agriculture, wildlife and the environment. The Murray River’s waters had formed the narrative for our trek – and, though time will keep us in the dark about how its story ends, our short meandering along its channels gave us a real glimpse into its depths.

How to do it

Phoebe Smith was a guest of the Murray River Walk (murrayriverwalk.com.au), which offers a four-day, three-night guided journey along the eponymous waterway between May and September every year. It costs from AUS$2,500 (about £1,390) per person, including all meals (made with locally sourced ingredients), soft drinks, wine and beer, accommodation on a luxury houseboat, walking guides and transfers to and from Renmark. The author stayed at the Renmark Hotel (renmarkhotel.com.au), the first community-owned hotel in the British Empire. Prices start at $130 AUD (£72) per night. For information about the region, see southaustralia.com and australia.com.