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The tiny stone bridge that changed the course of British history

The Twizel Bridge keeps a low profile as it crosses the River Till - Credit: Jim Gibson / Alamy Stock Photo
The Twizel Bridge keeps a low profile as it crosses the River Till - Credit: Jim Gibson / Alamy Stock Photo

Blink and you could miss it. The Twizel Bridge keeps a low profile as it crosses the River Till in Northumberland on a single, graceful stone arch. On first sight it should belong in the eighteenth century, when its parapet and low walls were discreetly embellished, but actually it’s Tudor, completed early in the reign of King Henry VIII.

This demure appearance makes it hard to imagine the scenes it witnessed during the battle of Flodden Field in 1513, when the baggage trains of the English army used what was then a two-year old, state-of-the-art bridge, as thousands of troops forded the river.

In 1513, this was state-of-the-art - Credit: getty
In 1513, this was state-of-the-art Credit: getty

It seems incredible, in an age when we can throw bridges across the Firth of Forth, or the Severn, or the Humber, that this 90-ft long, 12-ft wide crossing of a relatively tiny river could affect the battle’s outcome - and English-Scottish relations for generations. In fact, if you look at a map, the river forms the natural border between both countries.

A map of the Battle of Flodden, with Twizel bridge at the top - Credit: getty
A map of the Battle of Flodden, with Twizel bridge at the top Credit: getty

The Twizel Bridge has long since ceased to carry traffic and is in excellent condition, probably the best of the 16 medieval stone bridges surviving in England. Its Historic England Grade-I listing states that it is probably the country’s largest single-arched medieval bridge, and was its widest single-span bridge until the eighteenth century.

But large and wide are relative and it’s the human scale that makes stone bridges so charming. Anyone who has walked down Dovedale on a spring day and navigated the chunky stone footings of the Stepping Bridge across the rushing water knows that.

A view of the River Till - Credit: getty
A view of the River Till Credit: getty

Same in Devon, particularly on Dartmoor, where peaty-brown waters purl beneath slab-stone crossings known as clapper bridges – possibly from the Anglo Saxon for ‘stepping stone’ but perhaps, more prosaically, from the Roman word ‘claperius’, or ‘pile of stones’ – the stones being great plates of naturally-occurring sedimentary rock.

The longest clapper bridge of all is on Exmoor, to the north. The Tarr Steps crosses the River Barle on a mighty seventeen arches, but that makes it sound grand, while in fact it looks like a shelf of books that has been shoved violently sideways. It was first mentioned in records when the Twizel Bridge was a newbie, but is probably far older.

The Tarr Steps crosses the River Barle on seventeen arches - Credit: getty
The Tarr Steps crosses the River Barle on seventeen arches Credit: getty

I could go on: the delightfully-named Clattern Bridge in Kingston-upon-Thames – from the noise of hooves as people and animals crossed – an island of twelfth-century charm in a sea of post-modern architecture. Look over the side on a sunny day and you can see shadowy trout hanging in the clear water of the Hogsmill, waiting for flies.

Or the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’ in Scotland, an elegant confection by the architect Robert Mylne, hump-backed to allow boats beneath, connecting Oban with the island of Seil over the Clachan Sound (technically the Atlantic Ocean, hence the name).

Clopton Bridge - Credit: getty
Clopton Bridge Credit: getty

Or the marvellously grand Clopton Bridge, crossing the river at Stratford-upon-Avon since 1484, and its eighteenth-century equivalent in Bath, Robert Adam’s fine Pulteney Bridge, lined with pretty shops: both built by self-consciously wealthy citizens.

Pulteney Bridge - Credit: getty
Pulteney Bridge Credit: getty

Next time you cross a river, find the oldest, simplest bridge. Stone is the way to go.

Stepping out

Twizel Bridge, near Cornhill-on-Tweed, Northumberland: the best views are from the modern bridge, just downstream, and you can rent bikes and find maps on Flodden’s website.

Tarr Steps, Devon

Clattern Bridge, Kingston-upon-Thames, Surrey

Atlantic Bridge, Oban/Seil, Argyllshire

Clopton Bridge, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire

Pulteney Bridge, Bath

Secret Britain | More surprising attractions on your doorstep
Secret Britain | More surprising attractions on your doorstep