Tinos, a sleepy gem of a Greek island
With 6,000 pristine islands to explore, Greece, as we all know, really is the gods’ gift to holidays. And now we have another island to play on. Odera is the first major opening on Tinos (a brisk 25 minutes by boat from Mykonos) and it’s an Instagram-ready, luxury haven of which Plutus himself would approve. Featuring understated, exquisite design in local materials, all 77 guest rooms and suites have magnificent views of the Aegean.
The commitment to preserving the environment and supporting island craftmanship is reflected all over the hotel from the traditional Tinian stonework to homespun materials and marble furnishings not to mention the incredible menus that celebrate local suppliers made with the perfect ethos of “simple done well”.
The main pool overlooking the ocean is an absolute showstopper, where if you squint you can blur the lines from sea, pool and sky, and a winding path leads down to a private sandy beach with its own bar and restaurant. As you’d expect, the sea is the same aqua green pristine clear water with glittering jewel tones we’ve all come to love and pine for everywhere in Greece. Back at the ranch there’s a fully-equipped gym and spa replete with its own hammam, hydrotherapy circuit and endless treatments to pummel and soothe you into a state of utter bliss.
Though you probably won’t want to leave the hotel, Tinos, while somewhat barren in terms of greenery to those of us from a more rain-lashed isle, is a delight to explore. Best known by pilgrims for the Church of Panagia Evangeslistria, also called the “Greek Lourdes” for its perceived healing powers, the ancient hills are covered in the most intricate dovecotes or pigeon houses that were built during the Venetian period of 1207-1715. Unique to the island, they give the area an incredibly distinctive appearance, as do the windmills, some also dating back centuries, that dot the horizon.
Picturesque villages — connected by 93 miles of donkey tracks — are well worth a wander. Velox, Kardani and Pygros are all unique and fascinating. Don’t miss out on a swim and sunbathe at the exquisite Kolympithra beach about 15km from Tinos town and make sure you enjoy the buzzing atmosphere in the square at sunset at Ysternia as locals gather for an evening drink.
In terms of tavernas, Svoura in Komi and Choreftra in Kampos village are absolutely stand-out. The former is in a higgledy-piggledy converted home with incredible wholesome Greek cooking — think the freshest of Greek salads and finely crisp feta parcels with locally-produced honey. Choreftra, in a beautiful white little town, has some of the best food I’ve ever tried. Don’t miss the stuffed aubergines with tzatziki or the unforgettable meatball ragu.
With a full-time population of just 9,000, Tinos feels like a rustic magic island full of traditions, history and myths. It still feels totally undiscovered and sleepy, something the locals are keen to maintain. They don’t need to worry about you though. If you’re anything like me, you’ll just be lazing around this new exquisite hotel enjoying the local delicacies and free-flowing wines and sunning yourself on the beach and by the pool in the Greek sun’s seemingly never-ending luminous rays.