Phoebe Philo Is Launching Her Own Label And This Is What It Means For Fashion

Phoebe Philo has announced her comeback to the fashion industry and is launching her own eponymous label.

On Monday July 12, 2021 the former Celine creative director released a statement to share the news of her forthcoming, long-awaited independent clothing and accessories line.

‘Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,’ the 48-year-old said. ‘I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.’

While little more is known of the label, which will launch in January 2022 and likely be based in London where Philo lives, the British designer told WWD that the clothing and accessories would be ‘rooted in exception quality and design’. Women’s Wear Daily previously reportedly Philo was assembling a team for a sustainability-focused brand.

The news comes three-and-a-half-years after designer Hedi Slimane took the helm at French ready-to-wear brand Céline (previously avec accent) following Philo’s 10-year tenure.

Prior to Celine, the London’s Central Saint Martins graduate took over from former classmate Stella McCartney as Chloé’s creative director in 2001, and later became the first designer at a major fashion house to take a maternity leave, according to the New York Times. Philo resigned from Chloé in 2006 for personal reasons.

If you’re unaware of Philo by name, you’ll certainly be aware of her influence as the woman behind the biggest trends to hit our wardrobes since the early Noughties.

Few designers’ influence is so far-reaching that they’ve inspired new vocabulary: ‘Philophiles’, referring to Philo’s committed following, and ‘Céline-ification’, used to refer to the transformative effect of Philo’s work on the entire fashion industry, having spawned countless copycats.

Famously guarded, giving few interviews and not engaging with social media (‘The chicest thing is when you don't exist on Google’, she once said), Philo is arguably the silent voice of generation, having spoken to women’s interests through clothes; she quietly offered something that spoke to shifting sensibilities, ushering in a new sense of ease at home and in the workplace, prioritising character and comfort.

She also spawned a new generation of lauded talent, including Bottega Veneta's creative director Daniel Lee, who worked under Philo at Céline, and designers Peter Do, Rok Hwang, and Ilaria Iccardi, the design director at Victoria Beckham.

‘It felt better for me to work on an idea of a wardrobe than too much trend,’ Philo said at her 2009 Celine debut. ‘I worked hard to create things that stand the test of time.’ It’s because of Philo we still can’t get enough of wide-leg trousers paired with trainers, oversized cuff shirting, camel coats and pillowy clutches.

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury goods conglomerate behind the likes of Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Tiffany & Co., has taken a minority stake in the new label.

Speaking of LVMH’s stake, Philo noted: ‘I have had a very constructive and creative working relationship with LVMH for many years. So it is a natural progression for us to reconnect on this new project.’ LVMH’s chairman, Bernard Arnault, described Philo’s new venture as an ‘entrepreneurial adventure’ and the designer as ‘one of the most talented designers of our time.

What we can expect from a new brand from the lauded creative director is anyone's guess.

But while we wait to see what's in store from Philo, here's a look back at her most memorable moments to date: