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TikTok star Addison Rae has launched her own beauty brand, Item Beauty

Photo credit: Item Beauty
Photo credit: Item Beauty

From Harper's BAZAAR

Long gone are the days where the big beauty companies reigned supreme over our skincare and make-up routines, while our favourite A-list stars merely gave their name (or face) to products, signalling a surge in sales.

The new age of influencer-created beauty has been rising for a while – but now, it's TikTok stars who are stealing the spotlight.

The beauty landscape has been shifting for some time, with the growth of social media giving rise to a new kind of celebrity – the content creators who have achieved their 'influence' through their social media presence.

Instagram is most renowned for allowing these savvy individuals to make their living via sponsored posts and beauty-brand partnerships, but such platforms are also providing opportunities for influencers to give their fans exactly what they say they need by creating their own beauty empires.

Importantly, these influencers are often around the same age as their viewers, so have a unique ability to relate to and understand their viewer's needs; think of it as peer-to-peer selling reinvented for the new decade.

The most famous of all is probably Emily Weiss, who built her cult-status beauty brand Glossier out of her blog, Into The Gloss, in 2010. 'Traditional' celebrities such as Rihanna with Fenty Beauty and Kylie Jenner with Kylie Cosmetics have also launched their own brands to great acclaim with the help of social media.

Now, TikTok influencers are entering the fray.

The social media platform known for its short videos, catchy songs and dancing challenges is quickly becoming the most popular hub for Gen Z individuals (without the damaging drama and overly-filtered perception often levelled at YouTube and Instagram). For beauty, it's a place for fun tips and tricks too, from how to curl your hair using your dressing-gown cord to creative make-up looks that appear as if by magic on screen.

As a desire for transparency and authenticity grows among consumers, especially those in their teens, the relatability of this latest generation of influencers means that they seem better placed to suggest what individuals their age actually want to have pride-of-place in their make-up bags and skincare cabinets.

Brand innovation companies (that will arguably have massive sway in the future of the beauty industry) agree.

The incubator Madeby Collective, for example, just announced its partnership with the TikTok influencer Addison Rae Easterling – known for her enviably long lashes – and the result is the launch of Item Beauty.

The 19 year old (whose mother is a former make-up artist) is still just a teenager, but her dancing videos have earned her over 53 million followers on the app, meaning she's now the second most popular individual on the platform. With that popularity comes serious opportunity when it comes to beauty.

“We looked at how Gen Z customers are being served — or not served — by the brands in the market and the opportunities to speak to them,” said the senior vice-president of Madeby Collective Jennifer Gosselin in an interview with WWD. “What we found is that there is an opportunity for a brand based in authenticity, self-love, empowerment. What’s inspiring about [Generation Z] is the idea that they want to enhance what they have versus trying to hide or cover it up. We looked to see who embodied that.”

"We are thrilled to be working alongside Addison," Gosselin continued in the press release. "She is an expert storyteller, an inspirational social media pioneer, and she has an uncanny ability to captivate and mobilise a community. As the brand's co-founder and chief innovation officer, Addison is not just the face of Item; she is the driving creative force behind every product concept and campaign that we bring to market."

The distinction between being the 'face' and the 'creative force' is important to note; a differentiation stressed arguably because customers are no longer content to see their favourite celebrities simply associated with a brand. Instead, they want to hear and benefit from their opinions and expertise too (just as they do by watching their videos online). Being 'just a pretty face' no longer a successful brand makes.

As for Item Beauty itself, dubbed 'a fresh fix for your life', it's everything you'd expect a modern Gen Z make-up brand to be, with all the morals that seem set to define the generation. It's 'clean' (which in this case means it is vegan and free from parabens, phthalates, talc and mineral oil) and is based on the concept of 'instilling confidence, self-love and self-expression' – a message all teenagers should hear as they experiment with cosmetics.

"I wanted to create a brand that supports individuality in a very real and authentic way," commented Easterling. "Item approaches beauty the same way that I do. I want to be able to put something on my face that I can feel good about—clean products with ingredients that are good for my skin and enhance, not mask, my features. It's about embracing all your imperfections because they all play a part in what makes you truly unique."

The debut collection, featuring six playful products, includes (of course) a lengthening mascara that contains hero ingredient castor oil, so users can hope to achieve Easterling's own signature lashes. There's also a jelly eyeshadow, lip oil, brow definer, bronzer duo and brightening powder – perfect for experimenting without the need for heavy make-up.

The kids really are alright – and they are taking the beauty industry by storm.

ITEM Beauty will be available on ITEMBeauty.com from August 11th

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