A thriving modern city, blessed with some of Brazil's best beaches – an expert guide to Fortaleza
Why go?
Fortaleza, Brazil's fifth largest city, began life in 1654 as the Dutch outpost of Shoonenbroch, but was soon retaken by the Portuguese – Fortaleza means fortress. A thriving modern city it will appeal to cruise visitors for its history – Ceara State was the first state in Brazil to abolish slavery in 1884 (four years before the rest of Brazil) – but above all its balmy tropical climate and gorgeous beaches, such as Cumbuco and Futuro.
Cruise port location
The sleek, low-slung cruise terminal, opened in 2014 to the north of the commercial docks, is some way northeast of the city centre. The berthing is designed for one large vessel, and with only four or five visits per month this is plenty. It’s a 2km (1.3mile)-plus hike/ride to Mucuripe, where the beaches begin and 7km (4.5mile) to the historic centre/downtown area.
Can I walk to any places of interest?
No, not from the port – it’s safer and, in this heat, a lot easier to take a taxi or an excursion bus to get to the city centre’s attractions or the beaches. Once you’re in the city you can walk to most places.
Getting around
Taxis are the best option for getting around independently. Cruise excursions use a combination of minibus or coach and walking. Local taxis are ok, but drivers may well not speak English.
What to see and do
Fortaleza has been the capital of Ceará State since 1799, but only grew into the major city you see today – home to more than two million souls – in the second half of the 20th century. Historically its growth is partly due to the cotton industry and migration from the countryside. Fortaleza is a planned city, laid out on a grid scheme in the 1870s. Tourists from São Paulo and the cooler south are drawn here by the year-round sunshine and endless beaches.
What can I do in four hours or less?
Costa, Silversea, Princess and others offer classic city tours of Fortalaza, taking in all or some of these: the imposing Gothic-Roman cathedral, stunningly decorated Art Nouveau-influenced José de Alencar Theatre, the Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar (a cultural space for Brazilian theatre, art, music and dance) and the Ponte dos Ingleses or English Bridge, which is photogenically sited with the ocean and city as backdrop – quite gorgeous at sunset. Fortaleza’s Central Market, close to the cathedral, is packed with souvenir stalls and crafts.
Some tours add on Cumbuco Beach, 50km up the coast heading northwest, which has soft white sand, lovely swimming conditions in warmish green-blue water, and sections for windsurfing and surfing. Some cruises offer quad-bike rides on the dunes. If you do it independently, you can try horse riding along the shore.
What can I do in eight hours or less?
No cruise ships currently stop here for eight hours. Princess combines a city tour, with most or all of the above, with a cachaça tour – for adults only, obviously – that involves two 70-min transfers to Maranguape and takes around five hours in total. Passsengers visit the historic Cachaça Museum located in the colonial estate that has been home to five generations of the Telles Family. Made from sugarcane, cachaça is the key ingredient of the caipirinha cocktail. As well as learning about the traditions, there’s a sipping session – it’s strong! Silversea also offers the cachaça trip.
Holland America’s combined city and beach tour takes 4 and 1/4 hours: from the coach, passengers are shown some of the city’s other landmarks, including the unusual round plaza of Parça Portugal, the mausoleum of locally born former president Castelo Branco, the central Iracema Beach, and the 17th century Fortress/Fortaleza of Nossa Senhora de Assunção.
The city has lots of beaches, but the longest and the one photographers love is the one included on this tour: Praia do Futuro, which stretches for four miles and is great for a walk and/or swim, as well as people watching. When the gales arrive, which is not uncommon, surfers and windsurfers appear en masse. Tents and dining tables line the beach, some with swimming pools and playgrounds for children. There’s even music concerts and stand up on the sand.
Eat and drink
As well as the classic churrascos (steaks) and feijoada bean and meat stews sold across Brazil, and classic northeast dishes such as conconut-laced moqueca fish stew, Fortaleza is known for a handful of specialities. Paçoca is a tasty treat made using sun-dried beef, red onions, cassava flour. You’ll see it at most lunch buffets. On Praia do Futuro, Quinta do Caranguejo (Crab Thursday) is a big deal: all the tents serve huge crabs. On other days fried pargo (snapper) is the thing to try.
Don’t leave the island without
Good buys here include the regional lace handicrafts, hammocks and tablecloths; state-run CeArt (Avenida Santos Dumont 1589) is not the cheapest but it can be trusted. Cachaça is another popular gift purchase.
Need to know
No flights operate between the UK and Fortaleza. Condor flies from Frankfurt, Air France from Paris and TAP Portugal from Lisbon – the latter in just 7h 35 minutes. Flying via São Paulo/Rio is longer and more tedious, and usually more expensive.
Safety
In January 2019, violent protests flared up in Fortaleza in response to new president Jair Bolsonaro, sworn in on New Year’s Day; five hundred national guard troops were deployed to the Ceará region. The main hazard for visitors though in this city, as in other Brazilian major centres, is liable to be petty crime, such as pickpocketing and bag-snatching. Avoid walking after dark, especially away from the beachfront promenade. Use ATMs by day and in busy areas.
Best time to go
At three degrees South, Fortaleza is a tropical destination. The cruise season is December to April; August to Jan is the driest period with March generally the rainiest. Carnaval is a small affair here so no need to avoid the parade weeks.
Closures
Smaller shops close on Sundays. Major cultural centres such as the Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar are open seven days per week.
