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A tale of two family holidays: All-inclusive vs barefoot boutique chic in the Maldives

Constance Halaveli - Adam Bruzzone
Constance Halaveli - Adam Bruzzone

As unimaginable as it sounds now, what we were after pre-pandemic was a self-imposed isolation. “What do we get for 15 years of marriage?” I had asked my husband. The internet will tell you: crystal. But for our anniversary, what we most wanted was some relaxing time with our children, then aged eight and six. It was dark and cold in Britain; a Maldivian atoll seemed just the thing: no distractions but nature; time to reflect on what we had built together.

But travel choices, like other life decisions – city vs country, tea vs coffee – come laden with the baggage of our childhoods. Some families – the outsourcers – won’t go anywhere unless guaranteed entertainment for their young. Others – the cynics – would rather eat worms than participate in anything with even the faintest whiff of organised fun.

You probably think you know which camp you would most happily slot into. But in the interests of research, or perhaps in a moment of greed, we decided to trial both options, organising half a week at the (literally) all-singing, all-dancing Club Med Kani, followed by half a week at Constance Halaveli, an 86-villa island a short seaplane ride away in the North Ari atoll, which has a discreet kids’ club and sounded like more of a honeymooners’ spot (with a price tag to match).

What we wondered was this: do you prioritise children or parents in ­paradise? Would everyone’s focus be on activities, or do kids crave serenity, too?

Club Med Kani 
Club Med Kani

• The best hotels in the Maldives

Club Med Kani: go-go-go

Activities on tap, as with an all-you-can-eat buffet, is an excellent model when the quality is high and you’ve come with an appetite. Speeding up to Club Med Kani on our 30-minute boat ­transfer from the airport, we took in the buzz of the tiny island in happy anticipation.

From beachside flying trapeze to regular aqua aerobics classes, there is a ­bustle to the main hub that quickly fades into the serene lapping of water on the shore if you walk along the island’s mile of beach to its other side. Guests book rooms according to how much they feel they want to be at the centre of the action.

We settled into our beachside suite of rooms in time for a dip in the pool before supper. Just as the children were perfecting their cannonballs, Marilyn Monroe tumbled into the water next to them. This distressed damsel was rescued by James Bond, with another chap who seemed to be Steven Spielberg directing an approaching shark. As I tried to read Elena Ferrante, my children ogled the scene, which ended in a Mamma Mia!-style group dance-along.

What’s cooking? At Club Med Kani you’ll find Indian, Chinese and Italian meals
What’s cooking? At Club Med Kani you’ll find Indian, Chinese and Italian meals

My six-year-old was entranced, my eight-year-old and her father utterly mortified. “This is all a bit like Kellerman’s,” my husband observed. And yes, there is an insistence on organised fun that’s reminiscent of the early 1960s Catskills resort portrayed in Dirty Dancing. But one of the joys of fun on tap is that it requires little planning on your part: you just fall into step with the rhythm of the operation.

My son did not meet the minimum age for snorkelling trips, so one afternoon while he and my husband swam, my daughter and I headed out to see some fish. Following a swimming test, we took a boat to a nearby reef and spent an hour on a spectacular underwater safari. Expert guides led our group of 20 or so around the coral, pointing out turtles and all the colours. That this is included in the price is something of a relief: there are few hidden costs at Club Med, beyond waterskiing or scuba diving.

We zoomed back to Kani just in time for my daughter to join her brother in the kids’ club foam party. You may not think you need a foam party in your life, but it is an efficient way to buy time for a drink – a great variety of cocktails are available at the bar, all afternoon, on an all-inclusive basis. As the sun lowers, parents enjoy a proper apéro as children continue with the foam, or swim in the pool.

Kani has one main dining room, which expands on to the beach, and two smaller restaurants. Seafood features heavily, with dishes such as grilled lobster and nicely cooked steaks starring in evening meals, plus there is a pasta station, a Chinese corner, and an excellent Indian buffet churning out its own freshly baked bread at all meals.

Club Med Kani
Club Med Kani

• The best all-inclusive hotels in the Maldives

Constance Halaveli: barefoot boutique chic

When you arrive at Club Med, your rep talks you through the programme of events on offer; arrival at Constance Halaveli is a bit more like what I imagine it would feel like to be a celebrity checking into an elective medical facility – they know it’s you, and they know that topping your agenda is the need to shrug off the weight of responsibility. Any details can be worked out later.

When I tell you that my husband and son spent a few afternoons of our anniversary trip playing giant chess on the Halaveli beach beside the turquoise water, it sounds pretentious. But that’s how Halaveli rolls. Nothing is loud or showy; meals in the dining areas (there are four restaurants and two bars) are leisurely affairs, with buffet and à la carte options. Sommeliers offer superb advice and the quality of the meat, fish and vegetables is high, if themed nights – including raclette – seem out of place.

The spa is well staffed and perfectly designed: as you lie face down on the bed, you’ll be grateful for a circular window below the table, allowing you to watch the passing marine life.

My children preferred the kids’ club here over the one at Club Med, in part because the lingua franca was English, but more because with such small groups on the island, the charming staff are liberated and motivated to foster friendships. They embarked on thrilling swimming and snorkelling trips around the island, played games and hunted crabs with peers. The only rub at Halaveli is that the excellent-quality snorkelling excursions, lunch and supper, come at an additional cost.

Constance Halaveli
Constance Halaveli

So which was better? Club Med ­represents great value for money. With delicious food, a spacious island, and superb included water activities, it is an excellent way to access the beauty of the Maldives at a keen price for the region. Constance is a different proposition: it would be easy to spend quite a bit on extras. But its barefoot boutique chic was the perfect formula for my family.

Given the size of islands in the Maldives, I would definitely structure my next trip to the Indian Ocean in a similar fashion: dividing time between two ­different hotels meant we never got bored. The week away reset us and we’ve had fun trying to re-create some of the Halaveli cocktails, though ­without hammocks or serene turquoise waters. But the adventure, embarked upon together, brought us closer – and that, it turns out, is far more valuable than crystal.

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A week at Club Med Kani costs from £6,937 all-inclusive for a family of four in one room with children aged under six, who stay free; interconnected rooms with older children from £9,710, including return flights from London Gatwick and transfers (clubmed.co.uk).

Turquoise Holidays is offering seven nights at Constance Halaveli with breakfast from £10,499 for a family of four (two children aged under 12) in a family water villa, including international flights and seaplane transfers (­turquoiseholidays.co.uk). Prices are based on Easter holidays.

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