The existence of London Fashion Week could be under threat if the UK fails to come to a “comprehensive agreement” with the EU, a new Brexit report has warned. The report, published by the House of Lords EU Internal Market Committee, detailed the potential impact of Brexit on the non-financial services sector. With over 880,000 jobs and counting, it determined that the British fashion industry played a key role in the growth of the economy.
Fashion and politics have always had a rather tumultuous relationship. Think back to a few years ago when Karl Lagerfeld co-opted feminism, creating a women-only protest on Chanel’s SS15 runway that was slammed for its superficiality. Since Donald Trump’s election, designers in all four fashion capitals have jumped on the political bandwagon.
With only Paris left to go, the AW17 Fashion Weeks are almost over. And though clear-cut trends are still yet to be seen, one colour has been appearing again and again on the runways. Burgundy first popped up in New York at Kanye West’s Yeezy show and has since dominated the collections of Versus, Marc Jacobs and Roksanda. The shade, which references military garb, has been used on a multitude of utility wear as well as more elegant dresses and vinyl pieces.
Plenty of brands have adopted the see now, buy now model first started by industry giant Burberry. In layman’s terms, that means you can buy any look as soon as it’s stepped off the runway. No more waiting for six months until it hits stores. This season, the likes of Topshop Unique, Christopher Kane and Tommy Hilfiger (in collaboration with Gigi Hadid natch) have made their designs available to buy straight away.
Marc Jacobs’ AW17 show was one of the most diverse in New York. The Fashion Spot‘s biannual diversity report has just been released, revealing what really happened on the AW17 New York runways. Overall, 31.5% of model castings featured non-white models which is an increase (albeit a small one) compared to last season.
It’s not just about the clothes at London Fashion Week, beautiful make-up looks were all over the catwalks. Over five days of reporting backstage and attending fashion shows, one beauty trend stood out in particular: Vibrant orange eyes were everywhere, ranging from a subtle burnt wash over the eye to ladylike coral lids or a bold neon stripe. After to speaking to beauty experts, we discovered orange eyes can be surprisingly wearable, even for those of you who don’t normally wear colour on your eyelids.
Another season of London Fashion Week has come to an end. While some designers have rejected the seasonal concept altogether, others have fully stuck to the autumn/winter vibe. Plenty of trends emerged; some wearable, a few much less so. America’s current plight proved to be a huge inspiration for many brands with cowboys and stars and stripes appearing on the catwalks multiple times.
Bursting with fantastic collections from the likes of House of Holland, Molly Goddard and Mulberry, London Fashion Week AW17 had a lot going for it. Here's everything that happened.
London's fashion followers were out in force this season, wearing a whole range of street style. From retro shades to statement boots, feast your eyes on the trends the capital's most style-savvy were working.
Another season of London Fashion Week may be drawing to a close, but the memories of the beautiful AW17 collections will linger in our minds for some time. This season saw renowned British designers including Burberry, Christopher Kane and Topshop Unique showcase some exquisite designs, which are absolutely worth adding to your wishlist. But it wasn’t just the big labels that presented the prettiest pieces. Up-and-coming designers Molly Goddard and Ashley Williams shook things up with their exciting new creations and Mark Fast had some surprisingly beautiful new buys up for grabs, too.
Kate has quickly risen to become a British style icon, favouring flattering designs from the likes of Erdem and Preen. This isn’t a usual for the royal family. Cast your mind back to the 1940s and the days of Christian Dior’s cosy relationship with the British monarchy. The Parisian designer’s New Look and theatrical shows were so well-loved by the Queen that she arranged a private appointment for several members of the royal family at The Savoy.
When Kendall Jenner landed in the capital on Saturday, the entire fashion industry got excited. After all, the American model’s arrival could well mean a FROW appearance at a London Fashion Week show – or a quick spot of catwalk modelling. Last night, Kendall made an appearance at *the* London Fashion Week bash of the season – a post-show get together hosted by Burberry in collaboration with LOVE magazine.
Remaining vigilant, Erdem stayed well away from Middle Eastern stereotypes. Instead, he delicately embroidered Turkish patterns onto military jackets and printed opulent designs across long velvet dresses. Faux fur brand Shrimps continues to rise, updating its usually saturated coats into icy designs fit for a snow day.
Arguably the biggest show in the London Fashion Week schedule, Burberry showed its second see now, buy now collection this evening. Last season’s Virginia Woolf references had moved into decadent designs taken from the work of sculptor Henry Moore.
On Monday evening, Christopher Bailey debuted his AW17 collection for Burberry. Decadent, Tudor-inspired and structured, it was full of new season items that social media instantly gushed over. Lucky Olivia Palermo, sat on the front row, even got to wear one of the new pieces (the military wool cape) – as a model waltzed past her on the catwalk in exactly the same look. But it’s not just celebs who can wear the new collection immediately.
Ashish stayed well away from his Indian heritage this season, instead treading the path of many other designers by speaking out against Donald Trump. In the face of minority groups being targeted by the new President, Ashish sent out an inclusive collection full of American uniforms and positive slogans. Models walked through a broken heart, signalling the start of what would become one of London Fashion Week’s most political shows.
Mulberry’s AW17 collection drew on Britain’s vast heritage. Tweeds, quilts and equestrian gear appeared time after time with striking floral looks bringing up the rear. Naturally, everyone was waiting to see which new bag styles creative director Johnny Coca had conjured up. There was the Amberley – a saddlebag (with a top handle that you don’t actually use) – and an updated quilted version of the bestselling Bayswater.
A victim, a detective and a shoe-centric murder. It could only be the backstory to Charlotte Olympia’s AW17 collection.
Anya Hindmarch’s futuristic setting from last season had moved into the land of the Arctic. Of course, Hindmarch is first and foremost about accessories. Works by British poet Carol Ann Duffy and artist Tracey Emin inspired the floral-heavy collection which saw duvet-like coats wrapped around the models as if to protect from the harsh world outside.
Gareth Pugh’s shows are always a dark affair. For AW17, the somewhat macabre designer was inspired by controversial Nazi film, The Night Porter.
After a packed-out Versus Versace show that saw the likes of both Bella and Gigi Hadid take to the catwalk, some of the most famous models hit the capital for an expensive dinner. Fresh from her London Fashion Week runway debut, Bella Hadid arrived at the Sexy Fish restaurant in a grungy ensemble. The 20-year-old model wore a sheer crop top (with aptly placed patches), lace-up jeans brandished with skull logos and a Kangol beret.
73-year-old Italian icon Benedetta Barzini walked along with 70-year-old British face Jan de Villeneuve. Both worked alongside renowned photographers such as Irving Penn and David Bailey to capture the beauty of the 1960s. Other older faces appeared including 80s star Marie Sophie Wilson and industry stalwart Cecilia Chancellor.
You always get the fashion followers at London Fashion Week who like to push the boundaries and don completely bonkers get-ups – and fair play to them. While their style might not be to everyone’s taste, they definitely get noticed (and photographed by camera-clad paps). Above, the most weird, wacky and somehow wonderful looks spotted at this season of Fashion Week. The history of London Fashion Week in photos Live from London Fashion Week AW17: All the FROW and catwalk action
It was business as usual at Julien MacDonald who showcased a glittering collection full of teeny tiny dresses. Although many will never be able to fit into his revealing gowns, everyone was all smiles at the finale as the grinning designer showed off his newest muse, Winnie Harlow, and celebrated a truly diverse show. Simone Rocha also showcased diversity, casting models of all ages to walk in her generational show.