Fashion and politics have always had a rather tumultuous relationship. Think back to a few years ago when Karl Lagerfeld co-opted feminism, creating a women-only protest on Chanel’s SS15 runway that was slammed for its superficiality. Since Donald Trump’s election, designers in all four fashion capitals have jumped on the political bandwagon.
Guests were greeted with a giant Chanel-branded space shuttle that took over the Grand Palais (and lifted off at the finale), giving a major clue as to the collection’s theme. Images showing space blanket puffa coats and futuristic-printed dresses were also laid out on seats pre-show.
With only Paris left to go, the AW17 Fashion Weeks are almost over. And though clear-cut trends are still yet to be seen, one colour has been appearing again and again on the runways. Burgundy first popped up in New York at Kanye West’s Yeezy show and has since dominated the collections of Versus, Marc Jacobs and Roksanda. The shade, which references military garb, has been used on a multitude of utility wear as well as more elegant dresses and vinyl pieces.
Plenty of brands have adopted the see now, buy now model first started by industry giant Burberry. In layman’s terms, that means you can buy any look as soon as it’s stepped off the runway. No more waiting for six months until it hits stores. This season, the likes of Topshop Unique, Christopher Kane and Tommy Hilfiger (in collaboration with Gigi Hadid natch) have made their designs available to buy straight away.
Marc Jacobs’ AW17 show was one of the most diverse in New York. The Fashion Spot‘s biannual diversity report has just been released, revealing what really happened on the AW17 New York runways. Overall, 31.5% of model castings featured non-white models which is an increase (albeit a small one) compared to last season.
Another season of London Fashion Week has come to an end. While some designers have rejected the seasonal concept altogether, others have fully stuck to the autumn/winter vibe. Plenty of trends emerged; some wearable, a few much less so. America’s current plight proved to be a huge inspiration for many brands with cowboys and stars and stripes appearing on the catwalks multiple times.
Remaining vigilant, Erdem stayed well away from Middle Eastern stereotypes. Instead, he delicately embroidered Turkish patterns onto military jackets and printed opulent designs across long velvet dresses. Faux fur brand Shrimps continues to rise, updating its usually saturated coats into icy designs fit for a snow day.
Arguably the biggest show in the London Fashion Week schedule, Burberry showed its second see now, buy now collection this evening. Last season’s Virginia Woolf references had moved into decadent designs taken from the work of sculptor Henry Moore.
On Monday evening, Christopher Bailey debuted his AW17 collection for Burberry. Decadent, Tudor-inspired and structured, it was full of new season items that social media instantly gushed over. Lucky Olivia Palermo, sat on the front row, even got to wear one of the new pieces (the military wool cape) – as a model waltzed past her on the catwalk in exactly the same look. But it’s not just celebs who can wear the new collection immediately.
Ashish stayed well away from his Indian heritage this season, instead treading the path of many other designers by speaking out against Donald Trump. In the face of minority groups being targeted by the new President, Ashish sent out an inclusive collection full of American uniforms and positive slogans. Models walked through a broken heart, signalling the start of what would become one of London Fashion Week’s most political shows.
Mulberry’s AW17 collection drew on Britain’s vast heritage. Tweeds, quilts and equestrian gear appeared time after time with striking floral looks bringing up the rear. Naturally, everyone was waiting to see which new bag styles creative director Johnny Coca had conjured up. There was the Amberley – a saddlebag (with a top handle that you don’t actually use) – and an updated quilted version of the bestselling Bayswater.
A victim, a detective and a shoe-centric murder. It could only be the backstory to Charlotte Olympia’s AW17 collection.
Anya Hindmarch’s futuristic setting from last season had moved into the land of the Arctic. Of course, Hindmarch is first and foremost about accessories. Works by British poet Carol Ann Duffy and artist Tracey Emin inspired the floral-heavy collection which saw duvet-like coats wrapped around the models as if to protect from the harsh world outside.
Gareth Pugh’s shows are always a dark affair. For AW17, the somewhat macabre designer was inspired by controversial Nazi film, The Night Porter.
73-year-old Italian icon Benedetta Barzini walked along with 70-year-old British face Jan de Villeneuve. Both worked alongside renowned photographers such as Irving Penn and David Bailey to capture the beauty of the 1960s. Other older faces appeared including 80s star Marie Sophie Wilson and industry stalwart Cecilia Chancellor.
Henry Holland may have celebrated his tenth anniversary last season but that didn’t stop him from pulling out all the stops once again. Collating a whole mixture of references stretching from Western territory to race tracks, the fun-is-foremost designer majorly clashed prints. American flag Stars and Stripes also made an appearance (albeit not together).
Suits were kept loose – comfort is key after all – to match the long chiffon skirts printed with graphic shapes. Victoria is following in many designer’s footsteps this season. As always, David Beckham and the couple’s four children were sat front row and centre.
London Fashion Week is back. Coming straight after New York Fashion Week, the capital will play host to all the major editors and A-list celebrities who will take prime position on the front rows. London is proving itself to be one of the most diverse Fashion Weeks as half of the designers showing this season were born outside of the UK.
From our current political climate to the beehive sand formations in the Valley of Fire State Park, 54 designers share their inspirations for Fall 2017 New York Fashion Week. From ELLE UK