How to Style out a Receding Hairline, Whatever Your Face Shape

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Receding hair is a concern for many men. The key to styling it out says former British Barber of the Year, Guray Kesman, is to make sure your face fits.

Photo credit: Pascal Le Segretain - Getty Images
Photo credit: Pascal Le Segretain - Getty Images

Triangular Face

Profile: If your jawline is more prominent than your cheekbones, and you boast a relatively broad forehead with a more pointed chin, you’re in the right place.

As typified by: Hey girl, it’s Ryan Gosling.

Do ask your barber to… keep plenty of length and volume on top and as much texture as possible. Consider a swept-back quiff or a side part to reveal the forehead.

But avoid… going for too much softness on top – this can look flat. High fades risk narrowing the forehead, too.

Photo credit: Michael Ostuni - Getty Images
Photo credit: Michael Ostuni - Getty Images

Round Face

Profile: Wide, circular cheekbones, a full forehead and a tapered jaw can give the face a moon-like effect. The trick is to pick a style that undoes this sense of volume.

As typified by: Leonardo DiCaprio. Could be worse, tbf.

Do ask your barber to… aim for height and volume, while going tight on the back and sides. Opt for hard-textured cuts to lend more structure to your facial appearance.

But avoid… styling it flat on top. You’ll want to steer clear of fringes, too. All this will only serve to increase the perception of fullness.

Photo credit: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin - Getty Images
Photo credit: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin - Getty Images

Square Face

Profile: Your face is wide at all points: broad forehead, strong cheekbones and an angular jaw. You have presence.

As typified by: We could say Harry Maguire, but let’s go with Henry Cavill.

Do ask your barber to… administer a tight back and sides. Feel free to go with any length on top, but perhaps consider layering to help accent your features. In general, enjoy nature’s gift and go with what you’ve got.

But avoid… a precision-defined hairline if you’re receding. This will undermine the strength of your profile.

Photo credit: Jason Merritt - Getty Images
Photo credit: Jason Merritt - Getty Images

Oval Face

Profile: Broad forehead, softer, less notable cheekbones and with a generous, round jawline.

As typified by: The never knowingly un-handsome George Clooney.

Do ask your barber to… style your hair how you like, as long as it creates volume and angles on top. You want to balance the roundness of your face, not squash it.

But avoid… fringes. These make an oval face rounder. Think George Clooney on the pies. Short, stubbly beards are fine but beware fuller growth for the same reason. Think George Clooney on the pies with chips.

Photo credit: Mike Marsland - Getty Images
Photo credit: Mike Marsland - Getty Images

Diamond Face

Profile: Narrow forehead, cheekbones you could cut yourself on and a tapered chin = rock star potential.

As typified by: Cillian Murphy – who, incidentally, fronted a rock band before becoming a heart-throb actor.

Do ask your barber to… soften your angular features with a textured scissor cut.

But avoid… aggressive cuts and short sides. (Yes, we know that this is describing Cillian’s Peaky Blinders look, which is sort of the point.)

Photo credit: Amy Sussman - Getty Images
Photo credit: Amy Sussman - Getty Images

Oblong Face

Profile: A tall, rectangular visage with rounded corners will inevitably meet the question: why the long face?

As typified by: Ben Affleck. J-Lo evidently has a thing for right angles.

Do ask your barber to…apply even cuts and styles that work well with gravity. Insist on a scissor cut, too – shorn sides extend the face.

But avoid… too much height or length on top and too little length on the back and sides. You want to soften, not accentuate.

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