How to spend the perfect holiday in Sydney
Sydney has a reputation for being beautiful yet shallow, but scratch the surface a little and you'll see that Sydney has a lot more going for it than just the way it looks. Bedazzling beaches, windswept coastal walks overlooking whale-dotted waters, hole-in-the-wall bars, weekend farmers' markets and a thriving food and wine scene are among the drawcards that keep the locals happy and the visitors flocking.
For a beach-centric summer holiday, choose to stay in suburbs like Bondi or Coogee, where clothing is minimal and the water (and people) stay warm past sundown. Those more interested in nightlife, restaurants, bars and shopping will find inner-city hotspots like Potts Point and Surry Hills excellent bases.
For further Sydney inspiration, see our in-depth guides to the city's best hotels, restaurants, nightlife, bars, beaches, things to see and do, things to do for free and shopping.
In this guide
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
Have breakfast at Bills on Hall Street. The late Bill Granger put Australian food on the global map, and if you order the ricotta hotcakes you'll find out why. Afterwards, make your way down to Bondi Beach. Slap on some sunscreen and always remember to swim between the flags – these are the areas of the beach that are patrolled by lifeguards.
After a dip, take the Bondi to Coogee walk, known for its dramatic sandstone cliffs and many beaches. You will pass McKenzie's and Tamarama beaches and end up at the lesser-known (but some say more beautiful) Bronte Beach. You've earned another dip in the water. Continue the walk, which includes passing through the picturesque and historic Waverley Cemetery, until you reach Coogee Beach, another perfect spot for swimming. Find more of the best beaches in Sydney in our guide.
Afternoon
Your long lunch by the water at Coogee Pavilion has been well earned. Head up to the plant-festooned rooftop bar for Middle Eastern-inspired fare and panoramic views of the Pacific.
Jump on the 373 bus to Oxford Street (or take an Uber for roughly AUD $25/£14) and explore Paddington and Woollahra’s pretty-as-a-picture boutiques along the fashion-centric strip with Australian designers such as Camilla and Marc, Scanlan and Theodore, Bassike and Lee Mathews.
If you're still feeling energetic, wander down Oxford Street to Crown Street in Surry Hills, where you will find more eclectic boutiques, including my favourite, The Standard Store. Find more of the best shops in Sydney in our guide.
Late
Fratelli Paradiso is well-loved in Sydney for its warm approach to service and consistently good food. Yes, it's an Italian restaurant, but there is something quintessentially Sydney about it. The Calamari Sant Andrea has been on the menu since it opened over twenty years ago, and should be followed by the ever-popular spaghettini with a split-open scampi on the side.
If you still have energy in the tank, go for drinks at Love, Tilly Devine. With over 300 wines on the menu and only 40 seats, the ratio is just right. Find more of the best bars in Sydney in our guide.
Day two: morning
Take a morning meander towards Circular Quay. While on the way, pay a visit to the Art Gallery of New South Wales, and its new wing, Naala Badu, where you will find the Yiribana Gallery, dedicated solely to art by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people.
Continue your walk through The Royal Botanic Gardens (which has free guided walks than run daily). Pause at the famed sandstone seat at Mrs Macquarie's Chair to take in the expansive harbour view. Find more of the best things to do in Sydney in our guide.
Once at Circular Quay, jump on a ferry and cross Sydney Harbour to Manly Beach. The journey will give you a chance to take in The Sydney Opera House and The Sydney Harbour Bridge. Manly is a popular spot for surfers, and many locals believe it lacks the pretension of the eastern beaches. To the south you'll find the Manly to Shelly Beach Walk and to the north is Freshwater Beach, a local surfing spot with a large rock pool. Find more free things to do in Sydney in our guide.
Afternoon
Lunch by the water at Queen Chow where you can choose from dumplings, salt and pepper calamari, Peking beef and other Cantonese delights.
Once you've taken your return ferry back to Circular Quay you'll be well-placed to enjoy a late afternoon cocktail at Maybe Sammy; with a hint of Rat Pack razzle dazzle, it’s also widely considered to be Australia’s number one cocktail bar.
Late
Treat yourself to dinner at Café Sydney. The location, on the rooftop of Customs House, is spectacular. While the prices are on the steep side, you also get a front-row seat to the best show in town: the harbour, the house and the bridge. Share the seafood platter and enjoy prawns, marron, Moreton Bay bugs, crab and oysters. Find more of the best restaurants in Sydney in our guide.
After dinner, it's a five-minute stroll to The Sydney Opera House. Catch a show in the Concert Hall to experience the dramatic cathedral-like interiors and superior acoustics. Find more of the best nightlife in Sydney in our guide.
Insider tips
Neighbourhood watch
Head to hip Surry Hills for coffee, cocktails or dinner. Be sure to visit The Golden Age Cinema and Bar for an arthouse film and strong Negroni.
Swimming pools
One of the most loved — and Instagrammed — things about Sydney is its ocean pools. Try Mahon Pool in Maroubra, Wylie’s Baths in Coogee and Icebergs in Bondi. Harbour pools are more tranquil: heaven is an hour away on one of the pontoons at Murray Rose Pool.
Attractions
In the height of summer, many of the coastal walks are overcrowded. Try the Federation Cliff Walk from Dover Heights to Watson’s Bay. If your walk falls between April and December, you might just be rewarded with a glimpse of a passing humpback whale.
Hotels
The pool on the rooftop of The Old Clare is open to the public and is a lively community hub in the warmer months.
Did you know?
Sydney's indigenous and colonial histories are tangible, if you know where to look. Behind the tourist-focused facade of Darling Harbour and The Rocks lies a complex history that can be unveiled on walking tours led by an indigenous guide. The 90-minute Rocks Dreaming Aboriginal Heritage Tour is a good one.
City hack
Tap your credit or debit card (or your smart device), when hopping on and off public transport across Sydney and New South Wales.
Map of Sydney
When to go
You just can't beat Sydney in summer (December-February), and this goes for the rest of New South Wales too. The beaches along the coast, from the Norfolk pine-lined south to the sub-tropical beaches and banana plantations of the north, are at their most glorious in the hotter months. Prices do rise significantly in December and January, so if you are trying to keep costs down choose to come in February and March, the months following peak season; the water stays warm and the fun continues long after party season has settled.
New South Wales also has a lot going for it in the colder months. Autumn (March-May) is perfect for touring the Hunter Valley and the Southern Highlands wine regions, when the areas explode with autumnal hues and the ground is crisp with crunchy leaves.
May and June are festival filled – Sydney quite literally lights up for the Vivid Sydney festival, and there's Riesling quaffing at The Sydney Writers' Festival followed by the Sydney Film Festival and the Darling Harbour Jazz and Blues Festival. In spring (September-November), the first signs of magnolias and cherry blossoms appear on the suburban streets; and the jacaranda trees turn the town lilac with their blossoms.
Where to stay
Luxury living
This glamorous five-star hotel exudes a stylish opulence and is carved out of Sydney sandstone. But it's the panoramic views of Sydney Opera House that truly wow guests at the Park Hyatt Sydney. Its five-star credentials include top-notch service, fine dining, a rooftop pool and excellent spa.
From
£460
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
Boutique beauty
The design of Spicers Potts Point – which occupies three heritage-listed terraces – eschews the quaint, old-world style of the Victorian properties in favour of a modern, clean and sophisticated aesthetic. A botanical theme pervades throughout, from green-and-blue custom-made wallpaper to an eclectic collection of artwork. It feels like a private residence tucked away inside Sydney's premier suburb for drinking and dining.
From
£191
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
Budget bolthole
The Woolstore 1888, a hip-but-homely boutique hotel located in a former wool store, pairs uber cool interiors with a kill-you-with-kindness approach. The self-service laundry is a godsend, and a complimentary candy bar, evening drinks and canapés will bring out even the most hardened traveller's sense of fun.
From
£111
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
What to bring home
Don't buy Aboriginal art from tourist shops. Blak Markets, a social enterprise for Indigenous people, sells authentic art and artefacts. Market stalls operate eight times a year at La Perouse, Barangaroo and at regular pop-ups throughout Sydney.
Hit up Carriageworks Farmers' Markets on a Saturday morning. Not only is it a great spot for breakfast, you'll also be bombarded by honeys, pickles, chocolates and other artisanal products to take home.
Know before you go
Essential information
British High Commission in Canberra: Commonwealth Avenue, Yaralumla, ACT 2600; 00 61 2 6270 6666; gov.uk
Police, fire and ambulance: Dial 000
Sydney Visitor Centres are at: corner of Argyle Street and Playfair Steet, The Rocks; and 33 Wheat Road (between IMAX Theatre and Darling Walk), Darling Harbour (sydney.com). Both are open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm
Local laws and etiquette:
There is no set etiquette around tipping in Sydney. However, I suggest 10 per cent in restaurants and for table service in cafés, and rounding up taxi fares to the nearest AUD $5 (£3)
Top tips:
Give fake didgeridoos the flick; buy something uniquely Australian.
Most people are fairly honest, but watch out for taxi drivers who insist on taking you the scenic way to the airport or Bondi Beach.
The basics
Currency: Australian dollar (AUD $)
Time difference: Sydney is nine hours ahead of London in British Summer Time and 11 hours ahead in the British winter.
About our expert
For someone who grew up in Bondi, Ariela spends more time out of the water – exploring new restaurants and interesting things to do – than one might think (it might have something to do with a childhood spent watching Jaws...).
