How to spend a perfect weekend in Prague
Prague offers so much more than alluring architecture, abundant frothy brews and an inherently romantic atmosphere. The city has kept up with European trends in the realms of art, fashion, gastronomy and more, lending it a contemporary sheen that merges comfortably with its historical and architectural prowess. Indeed, as you browse the wealth of impressive Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance buildings (Powder Tower; St. Vitus Cathedral; Kinsky Palace), it’s difficult not to be equally bewitched by the trendy boutiques, swish hotels, and chic cocktail bars and microbreweries that pepper most downtown streets these days.
The city’s various epochs – Slavic, Habsburgian, Communist – are also still visible and make for fascinating explorations, as do their associated personalities, from Rudolf II to Franz Kafka. When the centre gets too much, hit the neighbourhoods – Vinohrady, Žižkov, Karlín, Holešovice – which throw up all kinds of interesting surprises, from independent galleries and cosy jazz bars to the witty public art of David Černý, and plenty of hidden gardens, local restaurants and churches.
We have in-depth guides highlighting Prague's best hotels, attractions, restaurants, pubs & bars and nightlife.
In this guide
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
Start with one of the city’s most peaceful and elegant areas: the former Jewish Quarter, aka Josefov. To see the main sights here, grab a combined entry ticket from the Jewish Museum, then saunter between the 16th-century neo-Gothic Maisel Synagogue, whose fixed exhibition focuses on Jewish history in Bohemia and Moravia between the 10th-18th centuries; the atmospheric Old Jewish Cemetery, whose oldest grave dates from 1439 and is the resting place of Golem creator rabbi Loew; and the Old-New Synagogue (booked on a separate ticket), one of the largest extant Gothic buildings in Prague. Despite floods, fires, and the Nazis, it’s still the main synagogue of the local Jewish community.
Afternoon
Saunter along the luxury-shop-lined Parizska – where you can browse the likes of Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Salvatore Ferragamo – to Old Town Square. As touristy as it is, its medley of eye-catching architecture always manages to impress. The most famous landmark here, of course, is the Astronomical Clock. Rather than joining the throng for the hourly procession of the 12 Apostles, climb to the top of the adjacent Old Town Hall Tower for fabulous views of the square and beyond.
More lovely façades can be found along Celetná, one of the oldest streets in the city, which leads past the Cubist House of the Black Madonna and to the 15th-century Powder Tower. Next door is the flamboyantly Art Nouveau Municipal House, which hosts works by Czech artists such as Jan Preisler, Josef Václav Myslbek and Alfons Mucha, among others. It’s home to the Czech National Symphony Orchestra – which regularly plays in the venue’s glamorous concert hall – and also has a couple of good restaurants, that make for a convenient lunch-time stop; choose from hearty soups, traditional Czech meat dishes, or vegetarian and seafood options.
Stroll over to the New Town, perhaps stopping by the fascinating Communism Museum en route to the National Museum; although it officially spans five different institutions over several buildings, this main hub showcases several long-term exhibitions plus temporary shows and offers cafés, a bookshop and a gift shop.
Late
Head south through Wenceslas Square, site of the Velvet Revolution, to splash on some classic – and classy – Italian cuisine at Divinis. American film stars shooting in Prague are sent here to feast on Czech television chef Zdeněk Pohlreich’s fabulous creations, such as roe deer saddle with mushroom ragout. Simpler but equally memorable dishes include shrimp risotto, roast beef and osso bucco, which can be enjoyed with a glass of good pinot grigio from Trentino.
Day two: morning
Right outside you can find one of David Černý’s playful sculptures, which features two figures peeing onto a map of the Czech Republic; his creepier giant babies, which have large bottoms and bar codes for faces, can be found in Kampa Park, on the other side of Charles Bridge, also close to the river. The associated Kampa Museum has a great collection of international contemporary art and sculptures, while the neighbouring Kampa Park restaurant is an attractive and convenient stop for a lunch—either a simply soup or salad, or a slap-up meal such as pepper steak with roasted zucchini, glazed shallots, crispy potato cake and cognac sauce, or the wild line-caught sea bass with artichoke risotto,semi dried tomatoes and basil beurre blanc sauce with organic trout roe. Bag a seat on the riverside terrace if you can.
Afternoon
Then it’s time for Petřín Hill, most famous for its Observation Tower, affectionately regarded as Prague’s own, albeit smaller, version of the Eiffel Tower. On the way are a slew of interesting stops, including the Petřín Rose Garden, which has plenty of welcoming benches to rest on, and a mirror maze that dates from the Victorian era, plus a couple of attractive churches. At the top, Strahov Monastery awaits, complete a stunning library, pretty gardens, an art gallery and a modern beer hall and restaurant serving Czech and international dishes, plus home-brewed IPAs and wheat beers.
Late
Back down the hill, stop off at the outstandingly baroque St Nicholas Church, where you might be lucky enough to find a classical concert. Grab a drink at the cosy Blue Light, whose walls are covered with tattered posters, graffiti from some of its more famous guests (such as Bruce Willis) and jazz album covers.
Then head to riverside venue Jazz Dock, which has a casual menu of burgers and steaks plus soups, saladas and tapas dishes, a great selection of drinks, and a solid programme of live jazz and soul music.
Insider tips
Saturday market
The riverside promenade known as Náplavka, just east of the city centre, comes alive on Saturdays (closed throughout January) with an atmospheric farmers’ market, pop-up bars, live music and more.
City hack
Many restaurants in Prague, aside from the more obvious tourist spots, offer discounted lunch deals between 11am and 2pm during the week. Vinohrady tapas-spot Kofein is one example, with changing lunch menus for CZK 230 (£8) that includes soup, a choice of several hot dishes, and a glass of home-made ice tea or small beer. Don’t be afraid to ask if you don’t see any signs promoting the deal.
Unique place to stay
The Sky Suite consists of one luxurious double room at the top of Žižkov Tower and is quite possibly the city's most memorable stay. The views are tremendous and the chances of being disturbed by other guests are zero.
Neighbourhood watch
Holešovice has been getting steadily hipper over the last few years. Formerly known as a meat-packing district, its industrial buildings now house restaurants and art galleries, and its former 1960s prestigious communist hotel is now a funky Mama Shelter. It's easily reached through lovely Letna Park, and you can grab a pleasant brunch at cosy Bistro 8, dinner at the buzzy Asian-fusion hangout SASAZU, or visit the sprawling, colourful DOX Centre for Contemporary Art in between.
Map of Prague
When to go
Prague is a great city to visit all year round—but of course that means quite different experiences. In summer, the small centre gets quickly overrun with tourists but can be enjoyed nonetheless, especially if you’re willing to explore the surrounding neighbourhoods. The city’s parks and gardens are every bit as lovely in spring and autumn, when it’s a little quieter and cooler, as are boat rides and promenades along the famous Vltava river. In winter, the Christmas Markets are perennially popular and dustings of snow can transform the Czech capital into a fairy-tale destination.
Where to stay
Luxury living
Arguably one of Prague's most impressive accommodation options is the Augustine, which merges a historical location with some seriously sharp contemporary design. Amenities include a comprehensive spa, a magnificent cocktail bar and courtyard restaurant with terrace.
From
£390
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
Designer digs
The Emblem is a classy design hotel located on a quiet street close to Prague's Old Town Square. The 59-room bolthole is nothing if not comprehensive: as well as slick, contemporary bedrooms dotted with punchy artworks, you'll find a rooftop spa and gym, a guest lounge with a daily happy hour, and one of the city's best steakhouses.
From
£230
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
Budget beauty
A convenient location and crisp boutique aesthetic are what’s on offer at Miss Sophie’s New Town, which sits in a renovated Art Nouveau building. The double and triple private rooms are fairly swanky for the price, and the atmosphere is quiet and relaxed. Breakfast is included in the price and there’s a private spa too.
From
£105
pn
Rates provided byBooking.com
What to bring home
Pick up something from a Czech producer at one of the city’s three aptly named Local Artist stores, which stock a range of ceramics, toys, stationary, home decor, cosmetics and more. A convenient outlet can be found along the Royal Way in Mala Strana (Karlova 21, localartists.cz/en).
Know before you go
Essential information
British Embassy: Thunovska 14, Prague; 0042 257 402 370. Open Mon-Friday, 9am-5pm
Czech emergency services: dial 112
Prague Information Service: Žatecká 110/2, 110 00 Prague 1, Staré Město (+420 221 714 714; prague.eu/en)
Local laws & etiquette
Czech law requires that you always have personal ID about your person, so keep your passport on you.
When you address someone, whether to share a table in a pub or to buy something in a shop, say “dobrý den” for “good day” or “dobrý večer” for “good evening.”
Most Czechs in Prague’s centre speak excellent English - but greatly appreciate your attempts at a few phrases of Czech, even if it’s just “děkuji” for “thank you” or “prosím” for “please.”
Prague is, for better or worse, used to hordes of mates on drinking rampages – but recent laws banned public drinking in many of the city’s main parks so best to be discreet in between pub visits. A smoking ban has been in effect since 2017 that encompasses all restaurants, bars and many public spaces including tram stops.
Despite reports to the contrary, drugs, even for personal use, are not legal in the Czech Republic, although enforcement for casual users is rare.
Basics
Currency: Czech koruna
Telephone code: 0042
Time difference: +1
Flight time: London to Prague is around two hours.
About our expert
Paul has been a regular visitor to the Czech capital since 2004. He takes the train several times a year from Berlin to soak up the city’s atmosphere and explore new places.
