The spectacular autumn city break you've probably never considered
Move over, New England: head east to enjoy trees awash with fiery colours.
Go now
Kyoto’s temperatures have moderated and the ancient capital is about to undergo its annual autumn makeover – parks, temples and gardens burst into a palette of red, orange and yellow trees. It’s truly beautiful. Fly direct from London to Tokyo with BA (ba.com), Japan Airlines (www.uk.jal.co.jp/ukl/en/) or ANA (ana.co.jp) – before hopping on a two-and-a-half-hour bullet train to Kyoto.
Stay here
Kanamean Nishitomiya (1 on map, below) (telegraph.co.uk/tt-kanamean-nishitomiya) is a luxurious modern take on a traditional ryokan inn, complete with a small courtyard garden, surrounded by seven tatami mat guest rooms. Doubles from £321. A more affordable option is the Celestine Kyoto (2) (telegraph.co.uk/tt-celestine-kyoto), a low-key yet stylishly finished hotel in Gion, a district famed for its tea houses and geisha heritage. Doubles from £170.
Walk here
Take a Zen stroll along the poetically named Philosopher’s Path (3) – a canal stretching just under a mile, leading to a string of temples with autumnal gardens. Start at the southern end with a stop at Nanzenji Temple (4), a complex with Zen gardens and walkways.
Continuing north, take a detour at Honen-in Temple (5), with its thatched gate, carp pond and, of course, its red maple trees. The grand finale? The seasonal trees ablaze with colour in the grounds of Ginkakuji Temple (aka “Silver Pavilion”) (6) at the path’s northernmost tip.
See this
Walk up the hill – lined with tearooms and trinket shops – that leads to the iconic Kiyomizu-dera Temple (7). The climb (and crowds) are worth it: make a beeline for its raised wooden stage and enjoy a bird’s eye view of the sweeping impressionist medley of autumn foliage that surrounds the city.
Try this
Anyone for ikebana – the Japanese art of flower arranging? Make your own creation at Ami Kyoto (telegraph.co.uk/tt-ikebana).
Shop here
Pick up a handcrafted metal tea caddy produced by family-run Kaikado (8) (www.kaikado.jp/english). Visit its store on a quiet side street (don’t miss its clean-lined homeware range made with Copenhagen-based OEO Studio) then enjoy a cup of tea around the corner in stylish Kaikado Café.
Drink here
Bar K-ya (9) is a small but atmospheric enclave (not far from Nishiki Market) with a wooden counter and Japanese whiskies on the menu. Drinks around £7, plus £3.50 cover charge. (0081 75 241 0489).
Eat here
It’s all about kaiseki-style banquets – countless courses of seasonal delicacies on eye-catching ceramics – at Kikunoi (10), a triple Michelin-starred restaurant in a traditional building. Expect to pay from £140pp, with wine. (kikunoi.jp).
Off the map
Head to Kameoka Station (less than 30 minutes from Kyoto) then take a boat ride along Hozugawa river, surrounded by dense forest. (www.hozugawakudari.jp/en; £29)
