This Is the Sort of Menswear That Put Italy on the Map

Murray Clark
·2-min read
Photo credit: Mr Porter x Brioni
Photo credit: Mr Porter x Brioni

From Esquire

It's always been a thing, Italian menswear. Go back as far as the 14th Century, and you'd have seen the big deals of Florence investing much of their fortune into really shiny, really impractical clothes. But it wasn't until the post-war years that Italy really became a fashion capital proper, when brands – much like Brioni – put the country on the map. It's going to stay there. And thanks to Mr Porter's latest crossover with the storied house, there's now another big red Sharpie circle around the northern regions of Europe's boot.

As a 19-piece capsule collection that's exclusive to the luxury retailer, the Mr Porter and Brioni line focuses on the focaccia and butter of Italian menswear: it is sharp, but relaxed; simple, but a bit sexy; classic, but not in no way middling. What's more, it hits all the cornerstones of a solid rotation, with winter essentials like overcoats, denim shirts and knitwear, alongside the punchier "ooooh, very nice" things that are able to punch up staples. Things like a fluid single-breasted two-piece in emerald green, and a black full-grain leather overshirt.

First founded in 1945, Brioni opened its first shop on Rome's Via Barberini, and quickly amassed a reputation for dressing big Hollywood stars, business leaders and heads of state. It wasn't until 1952 when Brioni held the first men's fashion show in Florence's Palazzo Pitti, a hallowed place in fashion thanks to the biannual Pitti Uomo: an industry event that sees traders and brands alike showcase their collections.

In the times of warp speed menswear, it'd be easy to think of Italian craftsmanship as a dying art. But it's alive and well. According to Mr Porter, Brioni can spend up to 22 hours on just one suit. You can tell.

Available online now at mrporter.com, prices starting from £510

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