The secret to a great plant-based ‘cheese’ sauce
I love cheese sauce, but I’m now plant-based. Are there any easy alternatives? I don’t want to use too many processed foods.
Mike Davies, chef/owner of The Camberwell Arms in London, says he discovered “the dark arts” of plant-based “cheese” sauce from his wife, Bonita, who happens to be both vegan and a chef. The simple answer, he says, is to make a vegan bechamel, which can be achieved in one of two ways. The first comes courtesy of Bonita herself: “She makes a roux with plant-based gear, then flavours it with nutritional yeast to get those cheesy, umami vibes.” You can then adulterate this further, be that with some mustard powder (as Davies’ mother does), a grating of nutmeg or a pinch of cayenne.
A roux is also Katy Beskow’s preferred route, especially when a lasagne or cauliflower cheese are in play: “I use a basic method,” says the author of Vegan Pantry. “Take 50g vegan butter and 50g flour, and make a roux in the usual way. Add some oat milk, then, once that’s nice and thick, add nutritional yeast.” Yes, oat milk and vegan butter are processed foods, Beskow concedes, so look for ones with a low number of ingredients.
The aim of the vegan “cheese” sauce game, Davies adds, is “to create something that has the same richness, texture and mouthfeel, and is also delicious”. For this reason, his second (and favoured) tactic is to enlist the help of cashew nuts. You do have to be organised, mind: “Soak the raw nuts overnight or boil them in water for half an hour, then blend in a good food processor with a little of their soaking liquid, some lemon juice, grated garlic, nutritional yeast, and salt and pepper, until super-smooth and glossy.” And if you fancy it a bit richer, fold in some oat creme fraiche. “That will rival any cheese sauce,” Davies guarantees. “But don’t be shy with the nutritional yeast, seasoning or additional fat.” This sauce works a dream in a pasta bake, for example: “Wilt some spinach, fold it through the cashew ‘cheese’ sauce, then spoon into big pasta shells.” Davies would then bake them in a tomato sauce with a little extra cashew sauce poured over the top for good measure.
Beskow also turns to cashews to pull off a thicker sauce, perhaps for dunking nachos into. She also soaks the nuts, but only for three hours (“you want a bit of substance”), then drains and blends with miso, garlic and chives, which she says “always give that hint of familiar cheesy flavour”. If, however, mac and cheese is calling you, or if you’re in need of a cheesy sauce to pour over gnocchi, say, then it’s roots manoeuvre time, Beskow says, which “I do day-to-day”. In practice, that means roasting leeks, butternut squash, sweet potato and sage for about half an hour. “You don’t want anything to turn too golden and crisp at the edges, but you do want it to be soft and sweet.” Then simply blitz the lot until smooth, and loosen with a bit of water or stock to get it to your desired consistency. “That has a comforting, cheesy flavour,” Beskow says, “and also looks like a cheese sauce, which is helpful. And there’s nothing at all processed in there, either!”
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