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San Francisco, California's Golden City – an expert guide

Crossing the Golden Gate bridge is a must - Getty
Crossing the Golden Gate bridge is a must - Getty

Why go?

Romantic and beautiful, San Francisco has been the backdrop for many of the world’s favourite films, such as Bullitt and Mrs Doubtfire. The reality is even better, from the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz to cable cars and fog. With great restaurants, shopping and museums, this is a five-star destination.

Cruise port location

Handy for the Embarcadero & Bay Street tram stop, Pier 27 is the main cruise terminal; Pier 35 is used occasionally. Both are steps from the Alcatraz ferry and Pier 39, with buskers, restaurants, barking sea lions, Aquarium of the Bay and the high-tech 7D Experience.

Can I walk to any places of interest?

Walk south along the waterfront to the Exploratorium, a first-rate hands-on science museum; continue to the Ferry Building Marketplace, with its restaurants and farmer’s market. Stroll inland to North Beach, for both Italian and 1950s Beat Generation heritage. America’s oldest and largest Chinatown is a 30-minute walk.

Getting around

The city is very walkable, but the hills are famously steep. So ride the buses, streetcars, light rail and cable cars in the efficient and wide-ranging Muni Metro public transport system. The BART transit service goes out as far as both the San Francisco and Oakland airports.

Hotels

San Francisco is ideal for stays before and after cruises along the coast or across the Pacific. Useful for Fisherman's Wharf is the well-priced Zephyr, which caters to families and couples alike. Small but classy, with a Michelin-starred restaurant, the Taj Campton Place is one block from bustling Union Square. For special occasions, head for Nob Hill and hotels with star-studded guest lists. Choose between the 90-year-old InterContinental Mark Hopkins, with its renowned Top of the Mark bar, or the Fairmont, the 110-year-old grande dame that was the very first Fairmont.

San Francisco's 'painted ladies' - Credit: Getty
San Francisco's 'Painted Ladies', one of the city's many iconic sights Credit: Getty

What to see and do

Whatever your interest, you can follow it in San Francisco. Fans of Sixties’ music head for Haight-Ashbury; film buffs see where special scenes were shot; foodies sample a wide range of ethnic dishes; museum lovers take in everything from fine art to cartoons. Many visitors just explore the eclectic neighbourhoods.

What can I do in four hours or less?

There is plenty to see within walking distance of the terminals. For an easy loop, head north to Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf, where entertainment includes Aquarium of the Bay, showcasing Northern California’s aquatic critters, such as sharks, octopus and jellyfish. Or, ride a roller coaster and blast baddies without leaving your seat at the 7D Experience.

Outdoors, watch buskers and sea lions, a feature of K-Dock since 1989. Otherwise, walk south to the historic Italian North Beach neighbourhood. Order espresso at Caffe Trieste, where director Francis Ford Coppola worked on The Godfather; buy books at City Lights, founded by Beat poets in 1953. Carry on to Chinatown. Stop by the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley for fresh, hand-folded fortune cookies; take selfies at the Dragon’s Gate. Think of Barbra Streisand and Ryan O’Neal careering down these streets on a bicycle in What’s Up Doc? Down the hill, across Market Street is the comprehensive Museum of Modern Art, with works by Frida Kahlo and Louise Bourgeois. On the way back to the terminal, drop by the Ferry Building Marketplace or the Exploratorium science museum with its fun, hands-on experiences.

Transamerica Pyramid, North Beach - Credit: Getty
If time allows, take in the views of the Transamerica Pyramid in North Beach Credit: Getty

What can I do in eight hours or less?

First time visitors often choose organised cruise line excursions for an overview. Disney, for example, offers everything from a city tour with a Dim Sum lunch to crossing the Golden Gate Bridge and touring Sausalito aboard a bright red, open-top fire engine. But it is easy to do your own thing. You could board a London-style open-top bus, for a one-day hop-on, hop-off tour, with 20 convenient stops including the cruise terminals, hippy Haight Ashbury (Stop 10) and the Golden Gate Bridge (Stop 12).

Alternatively, combine two tours. Visit Alcatraz Island with its eerie abandoned prison – but do book well in advance. Take a San Francisco Movie Tour: ride the bus with an expert guide; watch clips from 55 films; photograph the Yoda fountain and Darth Vader figure at Lucasfilm headquarters. Revisit the Sixties on a hippy history-packed Haight Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour. Or, join enthusiastic guides on a San Francisco City Guides walking tour. Among the 90 on offer, some, such as ‘Fisherman's Wharf: A Hidden History’ and ‘Historic Market Street: Path Of Gold’ start close to the cruise terminal. And they’re free.

Eat and drink

Thanks to California’s fresh produce, seafood and wines, the city has long led the way for innovative modern cooking, from posh restaurants to neighbourhood bistros and hip food trucks; 50 restaurants carry a Michelin star. Find influences from Italy and France, China, Japan and Vietnam, Mexico and South America.

Alcatraz island - Credit: Getty
Alcatraz Island makes for an eerie trip Credit: Getty

Don’t leave San Francisco without…

For large stores with familiar names, check out Market Street and the Union Square area. Away from the crowds is Pacific Heights, where tree-lined Sacramento and Fillmore Streets offer upmarket fashions, shoes, gifts and more. Ride the Number 1 bus from downtown along Sacramento Street, up and over Nob Hill.

Need to know

Flight time

Direct flights from London Heathrow take about 11 hours with British Airways, Virgin Atlantic and United.

Safety

Although not a dangerous city, San Francisco has a large number of homeless people. At night, keep to well-lit, busy spots; keep wallets and valuables well hidden.

Seal surrounding Pier 39 - Credit: Getty
Pier 39's seals are not to be missed Credit: Getty

Best time to go

The climate is temperate year-round. Winters are mild and damp; summers are dry, but chilly when the fog rolls in. Some of the sunniest weather is in Septembe and October. Always busy, the city is large enough to absorb visitors.

Closures

Major museums close one day a week (usually Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday); always check. Major shops are open daily.

Save money

As well as reduced prices on attractions, the bonus with CityPASS San Francisco is unlimited public transport. The Go City Card is also flexible. The city tourism website features deals.