With lockdown restrictions easing, there are some people who would prefer things to stay exactly as they are.
The doppelgangers return
Becoming famous in a hit comedy means you may never escape being ‘Mr Sheffield’ or ‘Ross’s girlfriend from Friends’, discovers Adam White, but it also means being endlessly adored, as Erika Alexander, Charles Shaughnessy, and Bonnie Somerville reveal
Over the past few weeks, Rihanna has convinced everyone they need a leather blazer, sheer trousers, and a fringe. Now it’s time to add high-heeled flip-flops to the list. Rihanna recently stepped out, in Los Angeles, wearing a comfy tracksuit with a bowling bag, trucker hat, and a pair of strappy periwinkle flip-flops. Look close, and you’ll see that these are no ordinary flip-flops, these have a stiletto. It’s comfort in the front, fashion in the back. Not to mention a throwback to the late ’90s/early ’00s. RiRi isn’t the only one jumping on the heeled flip-flops trend for spring. The thong sandals that were once deemed controversial — and even crowned the “most hated sandal trend” — are having a moment. Fancy flip-flops were all over the spring ’21 runway popping up in shows from Stella McCartney, Acne Studios, and Tom Ford. These designers gave the humble flip-flop a much-needed makeover that played with proportions and added details that turned them into a trendy staple. (Again.) Now with Rihanna’s latest endorsement, it’s clear, heeled flip-flops are sticking around — just in time to show off that at-home pedicure. Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Rihanna's Monochrome Look Is Perfect For Going OutThe Allure Of Shoes That Make Your Feet Look BigBarbie Ferreira's Sandals Are "Euphoria"-Approved
Of all the skin-care topics I've covered in my years reporting on beauty, chemical peels are one of the most polarizing. The word "peel" alone implies a reptilian shedding process that is nothing short of scary as hell. I get it — who wants to walk around with massive patches of croissant-like flakes falling off their face?Still, there's a reason why the treatment comes highly recommended by experts and dermatologists. Board-certified dermatologist Suneel Chilukuri, MD, says that chemical peels target a wide range of skin concerns, including acne, discolouration, and uneven texture. "If the right peel is used, even those with rosacea and sensitive skin can benefit from the treatment," Dr. Chilukuri says. "Peels also improve the overall barrier function of the skin."The magic is in the acids used for peels. Dr Chilukuri explains that peels can function as single acids or be mixed with exfoliating agents. "Typical peeling agents are alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, which work by penetrating the skin and releasing the bonds between cells that hold them together," he says. "This allows the cells to exfoliate more effectively and bring new, fresh cells to the surface." I'd gotten a gentle chemical peel once before, but decided to get a more intense treatment recently. Aside from wanting to hit a major reset button on my dull, tired pandemic complexion, I also thought now would be the best time for a chemical peel, since no one would see me crusty and dry while I moulted.This time around, I took selfies detailing my post-treatment process. I invite you to join me on my chemical-peel journey through a series of very up-close, not particularly unflattering selfies, ahead... as long as you promise not to judge me.Refinery29's selection is purely editorial and independently chosen – we only feature items we love! As part of our business model we do work with affiliates; if you directly purchase something from a link on this article, we may earn a small amount of commission. Transparency is important to us questions please reach out to us. Before Chemical PeelHere's a look at my skin before my PCA Peel, which I got at KUR Skin Lab in New York City. Before my treatment, my skin-care routine mainly consisted of a cleanser, adapalene gel, Tatcha Dewy Skin Cream Moisturizer, and Supergoop Glow Screen. With residual hyperpigmentation popping up from maskne breakouts, and feeling lackluster overall, I knew it was time to see a professional.During Chemical PeelMy esthetician at KUR blended 12% lactic acid, 6% TCA (trichloroacetic acid), kojic acid, and azelaic acid to treat my skin. You won't find it in products for over-the-counter use, but TCA is a popular active used in professional chemical peels. "This removes surface cells in a controlled manner to instigate a healing response and allow new cells to rise to the surface," Dr. Chilukuri explains.My aesthetician thoroughly cleansed and exfoliated my face, then brushed on the chemical concoction. I was warned to expect slight tingling or burning but felt neither. She felt confident that my skin could handle four layers of acid — she usually takes her clients up to six layers, depending on their skin type. PCA peel administrators work on a "one to ten" pain scale, Dr Chilukuri explains. "This helps us understand the level of sensation they are feeling," he says. "More isn't always better, as over-treatment can make some conditions, like hyperpigmentation, worse."Once my aesthetician neutralised my peel, she applied sunscreen, eye cream, and a nourishing lip balm. The entire process took roughly 45 minutes.After Chemical PeelThe KUR Skin Lab team sent me on my way with specific instructions and a PCA Skin Post-Treatment kit, which included a cleanser, balm, cortisone ointment, and sunscreen — all instructed to use for seven days following my treatment. I was sad to kiss my usual lineup goodbye for a week but was committed to healing my skin.Immediately after the treatment, my skin felt noticeably greasier than usual, but my aesthetician instructed me not to wash my face for 24 hours following the treatment. She also recommended avoiding direct sunlight and sweating (the perfect excuse to hit snooze on my daily workout).Night Of Chemical PeelAs the evening progressed, I noticed the greasy cast left behind on my skin turn a few shades darker than my complexion, almost like I was wearing the wrong shade of foundation. My skin grew increasingly shiny, which further tempted me to wash my face before the 24 hour mark, but I fought the urge. First Face Wash (24 Hours Post-Peel)The minute that 24th hour hit, you bet I was in the shower rinsing off my face. The cleanser in my post-treatment kit was a creamy, gel-like formula that didn't create a soapy lather. I was worried that it wouldn't thoroughly remove the greasy residue left on my face, but it did. I was thrilled to have clean skin but knew to expect some peeling in the not too distant future.Day 1: PeelingMy skin first started peeling around my mouth area, which wasn't surprising considering that it's usually my face's driest area. I felt more taut than usual but didn't notice any other unexpected irritation post-peel.Day 2: Peeling (Morning)Okay, this isn't the sexiest photo of myself, but I took it before I could even get out of bed on day two. Peeling was in full swing. The dry patches started to inch up towards my nose and into my cheek zone this time. The areas that peeled also seemed noticeably darker than usual, which made my skin look splotchy. Yikes.Day 2: Peeling (Evening) By day two, night two, the peeling along my chin area was super visible and formed a bold demarcation line between my new skin and the shedding skin. Day 3: Peeling On day three, my skin took on a scalier look. My forehead, nose, and chin had a flaky white cast not even a face mask could hide when I stepped outside. I also experienced moderate itching in some areas, but nothing a slight tap with my finger didn't fix. At this point, I remained consistent with the post-care product regimen and found that reapplying the PCA Skin Silkcoat Balm in the kit throughout the day helped my skin feel more hydrated.Day 4: PeelingFinally, day four came around, and I didn't feel like a cracked marble statue. The shedding was focused around my forehead and hairline area, but the rest of my skin started to look and feel smoother. Alas, I was sort of normal again.Day 5: PeelingBy day five, I felt like myself but much drier. My shedding had almost wholly subsided, but there was nothing I wanted more than to layer on a hydrating sheet mask. While my skin did feel parched, I was relieved not to wake up to large patches of skin flaking off my face. I continued with the PCA post-care regimen and layered on some of my go-to Supergoop sunscreen before heading outdoors for extra hydration and protection. If you haven't been diligent with sun care before a chemical peel, don't plan on slacking after one: It's the single most crucial step to protecting your skin, especially while it's vulnerable. "Sunscreen is an absolute non-negotiable," Dr Chilukuri says. Skipping out on sunscreen could lead to burning or worsening discoloration, which you can easily avoid by shielding your skin from the sun.Day 6 On the sixth day post-peel, I was greeted by a smoother, more radiant face. If you're considering a chemical peel, bear in mind that the process is different for everyone, and in some cases, you may not even visibly peel. "Visible exfoliation is not an indication of the success of a peel treatment," Dr Chilukuri says. "Some exfoliation is at the cellular level and not as noticeable, while other peeling is more dramatic." The main thing to remember is that your peel ingredients are the most important component and are meant to treat your specific concerns, not solely to remove layers of your skin. As you can see in this photo, my skin isn't perfect. I still have some discoloration and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in areas. It's a reminder to myself and everyone inclined to invest in chemical peels that the treatment isn't a magic wand made to solve your skin-care concerns instantly.My aesthetician encouraged me to make regular peels part of my routine, and space them out six to eight weeks apart. Talk to your expert candidly about a peel frequency that works for your lifestyle and budget (and plan around major events and vacations). Consider it a slow yet effective burn with results well worth having flaky-biscuit skin for a week.Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
They attract and nurture wildlife, celebrate nature and can be lower maintenance
GUCCI ARIA 26 mars 2021 Roma Cinecitta The rumours are true: Gucci and Balenciaga teamed up (sort of), and the results were on full display in Gucci Aria, a film by Floria Sigismondi and Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele. However, Michele doesn’t consider this a collaboration. According to the press release, the crossover is a “hacking” of Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia’s “nonconformist rigor.” Here’s another way of putting it: Michele is “swiping a selection of his Balenciaga designs for the Aria collection.” Call it what you want, it’s a sight to behold. The 15-minute clip filled with “Gucci”-centric songs by Lil Pump, Bhad Bhabie, and Rick Ross shows off Michele’s newest collection, which marks Gucci’s 100th birthday. (Highlight: The cueing up of Rick Ross’s “Green Gucci Suit” just as a model in a velvet green suit strutted down the runway.) There were major equestrian vibes, with models in riding boots and hats carrying riding crops down the runway. But these looks aren’t intended for the stable. Delicate lace layers, brightly colored feather and fur accents, and exquisitely tailored velvet suits in jewel tones made these ensembles something thoroughly glamorous. GUCCI ARIA 27 mars 2021 Roma Cinecitta GUCCI ARIA 27 mars 2021 Roma Cinecitta Of course, the real standouts of the collection were the pieces that featured both the Gucci and Balenciaga logos. There were Gucci handbags with gold Balenciaga “B” buckles. And sequined suits emblazoned with the names of both houses cut in the hourglass silhouette that Gvasalia has become known for. Most exciting might be how Gucci combined Balenciaga signatures like big square shoulders and sparkly fabrics to create something entirely singular. Both fashion houses are no strangers to collaborations: Gucci x North Face earlier this year; the Balenciaga designed Crocs back in 2017. But a collection that sees the meeting of two designers of this caliber is still surprising in the luxury fashion world, even if both brands are owned by Kering. That said, this high-end co-op by Gucci feels rather on-brand for the Italian fashion house. Under Michele, Gucci has flipped the script of what a fashion show looks like. After leaving the official Fashion Month calendar, in November, the brand threw their own GucciFest that not only showcased the new collection in a series of films but also spotlighted emerging designers. For Michele, this new collection is about evolution. It’s “an alchemical factory of contaminations where everything connects to anything,” he wrote in a statement. “A place where thefts and explosive reactions happen: a permanent generator of sparkles and unpredictable desires.” In text messages between Michele and Gvasalia, which were posted to Gucci’s Instagram Story, the two talk about missing in-person fashion shows and the importance of the 100-year-old brand. Gvasalia even remembers, in the ’90s, buying a tiny sample bottle of Gucci Envy perfume because, according to him, it was the only thing he could get in post-USSR Georgia where he’s from. “I actually still have at home,” he writes. Gvasalia also seemed to be a fan of Gucci’s latest collection, writing that “it looks really cool how you translated those pieces into your universe.” To see the translations IRL, watch the video below. Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Spotted: Lady Gaga In A Wedding DressThe "House Of Gucci" Heiress Would Like A WordBalenciaga Is Getting Sued...Again
PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 25: Natalia Verza @mascarada.paris wears sunglasses, a pastel colored green and pink oversized tie and dye midi dress with low-neck and puff large sleeves from Sandra Mansour x AGL, drinks mineral water from an Evian blue plastic bottle, during a street style fashion photo session, on March 25, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images) You don’t need to be woo-woo about wellness to be influenced into buying chlorophyll water right now. If you’re on TikTok, you’ve probably seen some variation of the viral clip: an influencer promoting their “morning supplement routine,” which involves a large glass of ice water, a medicinal-looking tincture of liquid chlorophyll, and a metal or glass straw (for aesthetic) to mix it all together. While the drinkable sludge-green water parading as a “supplement” looks about as appetising as liquified seaweed, what’s more persuasive is the claim that these kitchen-counter influencers are making — essentially, that chugging a glass of chlorophyll water a day will give you better skin and clear your acne. The hashtag #chlorophyllwater has already amassed over 29.3 million views on TikTok, but we thought it wise to speak with a licensed dermatologist to get all the facts about liquid chlorophyll and how it can impact the skin — before ordering a $14 (£12) bottle of the green stuff from The Vitamin Shoppe. @snaillyyyyy chlorophyll is the $hit ##chlorophyllwater ♬ jealous by eyedress – sexy cool funny popular person You can use your school science recall to think about chlorophyll: It’s the compound that gives plants their green color through the process of photosynthesis. “Chlorophyll is a green pigment found in plants, algae, and cyanobacteria,” explains Hadley King, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist. “It’s essential in photosynthesis, allowing plants to absorb energy from light. In the human body, chlorophyll has antioxidant properties and therefore has been shown to potentially improve signs of skin ageing.” However, according to Dr King, most of the benefits of chlorophyll come from its topical application — as in, putting chlorophyll directly on the skin, not drinking it. “Some clinical trials have shown that chlorophyll in a topical form has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties that may help reduce acne,” says Dr King, “but with orally-consumed chlorophyll, we don’t yet have data about its effects on acne.” This doesn’t mean that TikTok is lying to you. Dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, asserts that when taken in conjunction with a healthy diet, drinking liquid chlorophyll might be good for the overall health of your skin. “There’s some data suggesting that oral chlorophyll may enhance production of red blood cells in the body,” he explains. “This could mean better delivery of oxygen and nutrients to your organs, including your skin.” Of course, make sure to touch base with your doctor before becoming a micro #chlorophyllwater influencer. They’ll probably echo the same sentiment: There’s no real downside to dripping the green drops in your mason jar of ice water. But as with other forms of digestible “beauty pills,” don’t expect miracles. If getting rid of acne (or maskne) is your goal, try drinking more tap water first. Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Bio-Fermented Skincare Is About To Be HugeBeauty Editor-Approved Skincare Products Under £12Can We Just Stop Skincare Shaming Everyone?
When can I go on holiday? How far can I travel in the UK? The destinations likely to make the 'green list' Advice: travel insurance and the traffic light system Sign up to the Telegraph Travel newsletter The boss of Europe's largest tour company said he was 'optimistic' for foreign summer holidays this year. Tui Group chief executive Fredrich Joussen credits successful vaccine programmes in the UK, US and Europe for his optimism. He told the BBC: "We are still confident that we will have a decent summer. "All medical advice we are getting as a company says that existing vaccines are working with existing variants. "Now they might be less efficient sometimes, but still it's much better than not being vaccinated." Joussen also broached the topic of testing, suggesting a negative test result would be just as effective as a vaccine passport – but only if the cost of individual tests is made more affordable to the average traveller. "The cheaper it gets, the better it works and the less harmful it is for the general economy," he said. He added that bookings in March for Tui had hit 2.8 million, with the company expecting to operate up to 75% of its normal schedule for the summer season. As it stands under the Government's current road map out of lockdown, Britons are set to be allowed to travel abroad for foreign holidays from May 17 – though the traffic light system may mean some destinations are essentially off-limits. Scroll for live travel updates.
Over the past few years, people have been going out of their way to turn themselves into human icicles in the name of wellness. Whether it's wild swimming in your nearest body of (clean) outdoor water or something altogether more intense like following the teachings of Wim Hof, a Dutch man who absolutely loves wearing nothing but Speedos in Arctic conditions, people are really leaning in to being cold in the name of health right now.With the mercury rising as we head into spring and summer, and for those of you who are city dwellers and therefore a little short on Arctic tundras to roll around on or chilly seas to take a dip in, take your cue from Miranda Kerr and Fearne Cotton, who start their day with a freezing cold shower. The supposed benefits do sound pretty good; improved immunity and circulation, stress relief, better mood, and relief of muscle soreness. Seems simple enough.To find out if making myself really, really cold every day could help me through my fusty pandemic mentality, I decided to take a freezing cold shower each morning for an entire month. Did it make that much of a difference? Read on to find out. Week 1Shit, that’s cold. And by cold, I mean my-housemates-can-hear-me-yelling-expletives cold.Despite my best efforts to prepare myself the night before starting (It’s gonna be great! You’re taking a bold step to possibly increase your well-being! You are young and fierce! Try new things!), I woke up and had only a split second of cozy morning bliss before feeling a sense of dread for the task at hand.I schlepped over to the bathroom, reluctantly removed my pyjamas, and cranked the cold faucet all the way. Why did I agree to this again? I set a timer on my phone for five minutes and got in.The worst part was breathing. Practically hyperventilating from the shock of the freezing-cold water, the sensations in my body felt similar to what I’ve experienced during panic attacks. (So, no, this is not fun at all.) About two minutes in or so, though, my breathing slowed down, and I was able to stand still and shampoo and condition my hair under the freezing-cold stream.When the timer finally went off, I thanked my lucky stars and shut the water off quickly. Immediately, I felt a glowy, warm feeling inside my chest and stomach. I’m not sure if this was just a result of the sudden change back to room temperature, but it certainly felt soothing.Though the initial shock decreased slightly each day, the first week went pretty much the same way: First, holy hell that’s cold. Then, more controlled breathing, and a calm, fuzzy feeling after getting out. Observations: I haven’t noticed any increased immunity — but, to be fair, no one around me is currently sick, and I'm not exactly self-administering blood tests to check my T cells. I do feel like I have more energy in the mornings ("Duh," you say, "you’re practically waking up to a cold bucket of water thrown on your head"), and am less stressed than usual for at least an hour after showering.Illustrated by: Ivy LiuWeek 2By the second week, the hyperventilation-like breathing period at the beginning of my showers lasted for no more than 30 seconds. Cold showers started to feel a little more routine, and I began to look forward to the warm feeling I experienced after getting out.There were a few times when I woke up with a headache, feeling groggy and particularly unexcited about stepping into a shower of freezing-cold water. But, I realised, it was these days that the effects of cold showers were particularly helpful — my headaches went away afterward, and I felt energised in a way that I certainly would not have otherwise.Observations: Better mood? Check. Stress relief? Definitely. Improved circulation, stronger immunity, and relief of muscle soreness? I’ll get back to you on that.Illustrated by: Ivy LiuWeek 3 The third week was fairly uneventful, beyond this: I noted two days when, instead of feeling all warm and fuzzy and calm afterward, I actually began to shiver upon leaving my freezing-cold shower. Observations: Though I haven’t noticed any grand changes in my overall health (but how could I, really, in a period of only 30 days?), my daily cold showers have become almost as necessary to my morning routine and daily energy as coffee.Added bonus: I have no method to measure this as a variable in my experiment, but my girlfriend says my hair has been particularly soft lately (thanks, Zoë).Illustrated by: Ivy LiuWeek 4I am surprised by how easy it is for me to step into a freezing-cold shower now. It doesn’t feel shocking for more than a second or two, and I’m able to go about my normal shower business.The sensation I feel immediately after shutting the water off is lovely. To picture what it feels like, imagine jumping into a freezing-cold river in the summer, splashing around for a little bit, and then feeling the calm, everything-in-the-world-is-alright feeling rush over you when you sit back down on your towel in the sun. It’s nice. Observations: I’m a believer, baby!Obviously, I wouldn’t promote this challenge as a way of obtaining serious health benefits or as replacement for actual medical treatment. Any boosts to my immunity or circulation were too subtle to be noticed (I actually ended up catching my roommate’s cold the day after finishing my 30 days), as was any relief of muscle soreness.I will say, however, that immersing myself in a cold shower felt really damn nice in the morning, and I would recommend it as a quick energy- and mood-booster — and, as it turns out, there might be some medical reasoning behind this."While there is not a huge amount of scientific data out there dedicated to the idea of 'cold hydrotherapy,' I consider it low-risk for most people who would like to try it," board-certified general internist Holly Phillips, MD, tells me via email. "It sounds super unpleasant to me (I'm shivering just thinking about it), but there may be a couple of potential upsides for those who are less cold-averse."In fact, Dr. Phillips writes, "stepping into a cold shower will cause you to breathe more deeply and boost your heart rate (that's so your body can take in more oxygen and distribute it faster to keep your body warm). This will make you feel more mentally alert, and perhaps more ready to take on the day."And, Dr. Phillips notes, while the consensus on how cold showers could function as a treatment for depression and a way to improve mood is unclear, these effects "may have to do with increased release of adrenaline in the body and endorphins in the brain."So if you’re down to get past the initial shock, turning the faucet in the other direction tomorrow morning might not be such a bad idea after all. If nothing else, softer hair may be in your future.Illustrated by: Ivy LiuLike what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Wild Swimming Is The Anxiety Antidote I NeededI Took Cold Showers For Two Weeks For My HairI Took Cold Showers For 30 Days For Better Hair
In our series Salary Stories, women with long-term career experience open up about the most intimate details of their jobs: compensation. It’s an honest look at how real people navigate the complicated world of negotiating, raises, promotions and job loss, with the hope it will give young women more insight into how to advocate for themselves — and maybe take a few risks along the way. Been in the workforce for at least five years and interested in contributing your salary story? Submit your information here. Age: 32Current location: LondonCurrent salary: £85,000Number of years employed: 10Starting salary: I temped for three months after uni as a very generic-sounding Operational Support Analyst. I was pro rata'd for £18,000 p/a.Biggest salary jump: When I switched from permanent employment to contract in 2016, I went from £50,000 p/a to £450 a day, which more than doubled my take-home pay.Biggest salary drop: I quit contracting for a permanent role in 2020 and went from £575 a day to £80,000 p/a. Biggest salary negotiation regret: If I am being honest, I feel good about my negotiations so far in my career. I am acutely aware of my tendency to think I'm not worth what I am paid, so I constantly remind myself that it's less about my own perceived worth and more about the market. I'm always on Glassdoor, checking what people in my role and in my company are getting paid. I've also almost always been happy to walk away from a position/application if my salary expectation was not met, which is a HUGE privilege. With hindsight, I might have negotiated a little more early on in my career — my second job had me managing a team of five or six people, in London, in finance, for a little over 30k. But I was only 25 and it was worth it just for the learning curve.Best salary advice: Do your research. It's so easy to see lots of job ads offering a certain salary band and assume that's the going rate. Glassdoor is an amazing tool for looking up what real people in real jobs earn. Also: ask around. Salary and money are obviously still big taboos (and I wouldn't advise talking pay if your employment contract prohibits it) but the more we open up about what we earn, the more equipped we all are when talking to our bosses about remuneration. One other piece of advice is: if you don't ask, you don't get. If you're offered a job at a specific salary, ALWAYS ask for more. The chances are they are trying to slice a little out of the budget by paying you a few grand less. The worst they can say is no and then you can still take the job if you want it. In December 2010 I started at a company as a Junior Business Analyst for £22,000. I didn't negotiate this salary for this new role. Finding a job in 2010 as a fresh(ish) graduate was hard work. I took more or less the first place to offer me something. In March 2011 I received a non-negotiated annual pay rise to £24,000, same in March 2012 to £26,000 and in March 2013 to £30,000, plus title change to Business Analyst.I got a promotion in September 2013 to Lead Business Analyst when my boss went on maternity leave and I was offered her role. Initially I was not offered more money for this role, which I felt was unfair. I asked for an ambitious £40,000. When I was fobbed off, I looked for other roles and made no secret of it (not sure I'd advise this!). Eventually I was offered £37,000, which I was really pleased with.In March 2014 I received a raise to £40,000 and in April 2014 another to £44,000. These two raises came after some personnel changes at my company. A few senior team members left and took with them a lot of business knowledge. In a panic, they offered a couple of us who'd been there a while fairly big raises, two months in a row. I left the month after.Obviously not a huge jump here but I negotiated it in February 2014 when I was on £37,000. This salary was negotiated up from £40,000 after a really successful interview.This job move was because my previous role was not challenging and I wanted to go back to agency-side working. I negotiated this salary up from £49,000, haha. This was one of the rare roles I was keen not to pass up so I would have been fine with the advertised £49k.This is the big increase. I had started to notice Business Analysts coming in on contracts and being paid a fair bit more than my salary so I did some research and asked around. One BA told me, "I don't know why a good BA in London would ever take a perm role" so I decided to get a slice of that pie. At the time, it was extremely easy to pick up contracts for roles like mine and so I took the plunge and, for the first time ever (or since), quit without having something lined up. It was terrifying. But it absolutely paid off: in March 2016 I started earning £450 per day. In May 2016 that went up to £475 per day. By September 2017 as a Product Manager I was earning £575 per day although this went down to £550 as a Product Manager in April 2019.April 2020 was maybe the weirdest ever time to start something new. Going back to permanent work had been in mind for a while since some stricter legislation for contractors (IR35) was due to come into effect in April and I'd heard rumours of companies placing a blanket ban on contractors. So I'd had feelers out for a while. I didn't negotiate this salary at all. It was already really generous.Negotiation for this one was drawn out, which was a little awkward because the person who approached me for the role is a good friend. I was initially offered a contract at £500 a day, which would work out more than the salary I eventually got. But I was nervous about the uncertainty and wanted a permanent contract. Already having a job, I was in a good position and explained I couldn't switch jobs for a pay cut. Eventually we got to the salary I was looking for.One thing that is a blessing and curse for me is that I am not passionate about what I do. I am not making a huge difference or helping anyone in need or working towards a worthy cause. So when it comes to work, I am really driven by money. Aside from when I started contracting, I have always been in a role while negotiating the salary for the next one. Since I will never leave a job for a cut in salary, it makes job decisions easy – either the prospective employer will make a better offer or they won't. I am aware this is a really big privilege. 2010: £22,0002011: £24,0002012: £26,0002013: £37,0002014: £45,0002015: £50,0002016: £450/day2017: £575/day2020: £80,0002021: £85,000Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Money Diary: A 25-Year-Old In New Zealand On 31kMoney Diary: A 25-Year-Old Civil Servant On 40kMoney Diary: 29-Year-Old Comms Executive On 25.5k
When Boris Johnson announced the roadmap for exiting lockdown, hope crept in. Even with slight delays to the vaccination programme, that hope has stuck around, but bound up with all the (tentative) excitement about face-to-face socialising and – for some – a return to the office, came a distinct panic about our appearance. As if navigating the virus risks and worrying about whether we’ll have anything to say to each other aren’t enough, there’s the undeniable pressure to look our best post-lockdown. Amid the outrageous party memes are quips about how dire our dress sense has become, how much we’ve aged and how much weight we’ve gained. Since the government’s masterstroke of giving us a four-month run-up to the #hotgirlsummer of all summers, the deluge has been hard to ignore. Those who had searched anything tangentially related to beauty on Instagram were assailed with ads explaining how to fix ‘lockdown face’ and cover wayward grey hairs. Beauty brands and salons wasted no time in hyping up treatment offers alongside galleries of before-and-after shots. And of course, the more you click, the more you’re fed. But it’s not just advertisers spewing anxiety-inducing before-and-after comparisons. My iPhone has been particularly efficient lately in presenting me with unsolicited photo montages. Why wouldn’t I want a string quartet soundtrack as I contemplate whether I look older, more haggard, sad or unkempt than in selfies from this time last year? The popularity of ‘tweakments’ For months, many of us have been dreaming about our chrysalis-to-butterfly moment but it seems we’re planning to go beyond a mani-pedi. I have friends who are making ‘get done’ lists, from microdermabrasion facials to CoolSculpting for quick-fix weight loss, and they aren’t the only ones. Save Face, the national register of accredited aesthetic professionals, saw a 37% increase in people researching nonsurgical procedures (aka ‘tweakments’, which include filler and Botox) after the government’s announcement. London-based cosmetic practitioner Dr Vincent Wong’s phone is ringing off the hook as old and new clients rush to book appointments ahead of June. Dr Wong explains that Botox and hyaluronic injections are the most popular among his clients in their 20s and 30s, closely followed by lip filler. But why the surge in newbies? “Most women aren’t wearing makeup [during lockdown] so they may be seeing fine lines, discolouration – anything that was previously concealed by makeup – as if for the first time,” Dr Wong says. According to a study by No7, 82% of women are wearing less makeup and 56% go for a more minimal look for video calls during the pandemic. In ‘normal’ times, we might talk out our insecurities with friends at the pub. Now, we’re facing them alone in our lockdown silos, compounding already spiralling emotions. While filler has been popular among a younger cohort for some time, lockdown has changed the demographic of women seeking tweakments. Discussing the so-called ‘Zoom Boom’, Ashton Collins, the co-director of Save Face, says: “We’ve seen a shift towards a more professional-aged group of people who are on constant video calls, which, let’s face it, can be unflattering even on the most attractive.” Ashton adds: “The video calling has undoubtedly driven their huge interest in procedures and they are mostly asking for Botox to look a bit fresher.” Comparison culture Since it was announced that the beauty industry is opening up again, salon app Treatwell has experienced a 1,645% increase in bookings as many of us make a beeline for hair, nail and facial treatments and everything in between. These treatments are undoubtedly enjoyable, rejuvenating and, more recently, much-needed acts of self-care. But with June looming, the notion that we should all emerge from our homes looking picture-perfect is a stressful and unrealistic ideal. As well as getting her hair, nails and eyelash extensions done, 21-year-old Lauren is contemplating post-lockdown lip filler. “My top lip is really small and when I smile, I lose it. Now that the majority of women my age have had lip fillers, it emphasises the fact I haven’t. In group pictures, I feel really self-conscious about my lips.” Lauren isn’t alone in comparing herself to friends. Twenty-eight-year-old Georgia* thinks this will intensify once lockdown lifts. “I know that I’ll be in so many pictures when we can head to bars again,” she says. “There’s so much peer pressure to look amazing and have a major lockdown glow-up. It feels like everyone I know is booking in for something, whether it’s a hair transformation or injectables. Since the announcement was made, I’ve been targeted by loads of treatment ads on Instagram, particularly lip filler, and even though I can’t afford that right now, I’m very tempted, especially as everyone else is doing it.” Tweakments can be great when done safely but if you are considering anything, it pays to do your research and, of course, to do it for the right reason: because you want to. Rushing into things as a result of pressure or feeling as though you should be doing something can be dangerous. Dr Wong recommends using the consultation (a prerequisite to any good procedure) with a registered professional to make all your wishes clear. “Don’t hold back and make sure all of your concerns are addressed,” he says. “No matter how small or weird it may sound, practitioners have experience dealing with these issues and there’s nothing a patient could say that would surprise us.” Your specialist will then be able to recommend an appropriate treatment and any medical skincare to enhance the procedure. Equally, if they cannot deliver what you require, an ethical practitioner will not hesitate to turn you away. From Instagram to IRL interaction Beyond comparison culture, a proliferation of new skin-tracking apps, not to mention TikTok beauty tutorials and Instagram Reels on how to make your lips appear bigger or eradicate lockdown body hair may also be amping up beauty anxiety, providing more data with which to critique ourselves. The ongoing digital bombardment feels toxic to the fragile relationship between body image and mental health, which has taken a pummelling during the pandemic. In ‘normal’ times, we might talk out our insecurities with friends at the pub. Now, we’re facing them alone in our lockdown silos, compounding already spiralling emotions. Women have spent the past year navigating a different relationship with their appearance and body confidence without some of the pressure of societal influences. The Big Return risks replacing that positive progression with turbocharged insecurity. Women have spent the past year navigating a different relationship with their appearance and body confidence without some of the pressure of societal influences. The Big Return risks replacing that positive progression with turbocharged insecurity. Nalea, 33, has become more aware of signs of ageing in her skin in recent months and agrees that the digital sphere is a contributor. “There’s been more time to browse on social media and all the filters have made me look at myself more critically,” she says. “I’ve never been concerned about my features but I am about my skin.” Nalea is planning on getting the injectable hyaluronic acid treatment Profhilo, and is also looking into radio frequency, ultrasound, microneedling and mesotherapy. “It was when we heard that things would open up that I really started considering it,” she adds. Similarly, Jamieson, 34, is working through why she’s considering tweakments when lockdown lifts. “My body image and the way I see myself has actually improved,” she says. “However, having never really filmed myself before, I’ve started a TikTok account and that has made me more self-conscious about forehead lines.” Jamieson has had a consultation but hasn’t made up her mind yet. She says: “Is my desire for Botox just for me because I like the way it looks? I hope it’s because I’m making a choice about what I want and not because I exist within a world that values youthful-looking women.” The link between stress and skin Perceived ageing isn’t the only impact of emotional distress on our skin. Psychodermatologist Dr Alia Ahmed, who specialises in skin and mental health, has seen more stress-exacerbated hair loss, known as alopecia areata, as well as acne and facial rashes. This is generating extremely high levels of anxiety in some patients whose worries about their skin and its response (or lack of) to treatment are all-consuming. It can be overwhelming to see Instagram flogging us a buffet of aesthetic perfection, from serums to enhance already blemish-free faces to trends such as ‘glass skin’. The pressure to get hair and skin in tip-top condition and emerge from lockdown with a clear, glowing complexion is real. R29’s beauty editor, Jacqueline, knows this all too well. “Thanks to polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) and the anxiety of returning to ‘normal’, my skin is in a bad place at the moment,” she said. “I have been a little anxious and even embarrassed about returning to the office with breakouts, especially as the beauty industry places a big focus on a ‘summer glow’ or ‘summer ready’ skin. We have so much on our plates, like returning to work and adapting to the new normal, so the pressure to look great or ‘better than before’ is unbearable, not to mention ludicrously expensive.” The invisible ‘should’ – whether it comes from peer pressure, social media or the need to enact change after feeling powerless for so long – will suck the joy out of our unfurling freedoms if we let it. In fact, anyone with an existing skin condition like psoriasis, acne or eczema may have seen symptoms increase because of lockdown-related stress. While flare-ups may fade away when we return to some semblance of normality, Dr Ahmed says that stress-related issues can continue long after the initial stressor has resolved. As a result, those with skin conditions are at a higher risk of developing poor psychological health, she adds. As well as seeking professional help from a GP or dermatologist if possible, Dr Ahmed encourages us to think about why we feel a certain way about our skin. It is unlikely that the billion-dollar beauty industry will stop bombarding us with images of blemish-free faces but maintaining a positive environment is a great place to start. It might be time to unfollow that celeb with flawless skin and give yourself a much-needed break. Everything has changed, including our appearance There is no denying that the strain of the past year has been immense. It might catch us unawares in a supermarket queue, sneak up on us as we drop off to sleep or, for many, taint every moment. Everything is different so why would we expect to look the same as a year ago? We’ve experienced loneliness, long-distance relationships, job losses, grief and an unrelenting news cycle. Forty-four percent of women between 25 and 34 years old say that lockdown has aged them. No one has had an easy ride and it has taken a toll on our appearance, but that’s entirely normal. Personally, I’ll borrow from the principles of body neutrality and hope to focus on what my body has achieved, not how ‘good’ it looks, to quell negative thoughts as I nudge toward a social life. The invisible ‘should’ – whether it comes from peer pressure, social media or the need to enact change after feeling powerless for so long – will suck the joy out of our unfurling freedoms if we let it. The face that made friends feel less alone on endless video calls, the eyes that took joy from the simplest things, the skin that gave me the heads up when it all got too much will be the same features I’ll catch in a car door or shop window and think, Yup, that’ll do, as I hurry to wherever my presence is required next. Here’s hoping we’ll be too high on speaking without needing to unmute, listening without cutting out and basking in the presence of loved ones to stress about society’s next definition of ‘perfect’. Maybe laughter lines won’t be the worst post-lockdown look. *Name has been changed Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?When Does Buying Beauty Products Become Too Much?What You Should Know Before Buying Beauty DupesCan We Just Stop Skincare Shaming Everyone?
Trigger warning: this article contains references to rape, slavery, racism, homophobia and anti-Semitism. Divides within movements are hardly a new phenomenon. Causes rarely meet their goals without their internal disagreements. We’ve seen them throughout the history of feminism and repeatedly within politics. But when a small minority of a movement becomes extremist, what impact does it have on the future of a cause? Western veganism was established in 1944 with the founding of the Vegan Society. However if we look eastwards, vegan principles are baked into cultural history, with vegetarianism appearing in India in Jainism as far back as the 8th century BC. A few centuries later, Buddhist teachings not to eat meat or fish spread vegetarian cuisine far and wide across the Eastern world. In the past few years, as concerns about climate change have gathered steam, there has been an exponential growth in the number of vegans globally. With more and more people gaining access to information about veganism through literature, documentaries, lectures, events and social media, it is estimated that 600,000 people in the UK have adopted a vegan diet. With this rise in numbers, there has been a growing divide in opinions on how to progress the movement, encourage more people to go vegan and how best to persuade them to make that change. The divide mainly centres around people’s motives for going vegan, whether it’s for the animals, the planet or personal health reasons. In the 1970s, animal rights activists became famous for using violent and confrontational methods in the form of protests, attacks and fire-bombing animal research labs. Over time, the methods have mellowed to more peaceful protests, fairs, events and information on social media. Today, however, there are still some vegans who believe that more radical forms of activism are necessary to spread awareness of the impact of eating meat and dairy and to encourage people to adopt a vegan lifestyle. This rift has taken on a more sinister tone of late as a number of activists have used their considerable social media following to spread their use of controversial language in their efforts to ‘shock’ people into veganism. Over the past year especially, as communities of marginalised people have seen their trauma played out on a global stage, several high-profile vegan activists and influencers have taken advantage, using language associated with slavery, the Holocaust and rape. One person is Canadian vegan activist Kadie Karen Diekmeyer (aka That Vegan Teacher) who had over 1.6 million followers on TikTok before being removed from the platform in February this year after numerous complaints of homophobic, racist, anti-Semitic and disablist comments. In one comment on TikTok, she described coming out as vegan as “much more special” than coming out as LGBTQ+. She later made a YouTube video claiming “the animals have it worse” than victims of the Holocaust. James Aspey, an Australian animal rights activist and vegan of eight years, uses his platform of over 240k followers on Instagram to share information about animal agriculture and to ‘call out’ people who eat meat, dairy and fish for their role as consumers in the industry. In a recent post, James shared an image of a cow being artificially inseminated and claimed that non-vegans are “paying for animals to be raped”. His posts garner hundreds of comments but alongside the worrying messages of support, people are calling him out for his use of language at the expense of victims of trauma, often drawing the conversation away from saving animals or going vegan. James also makes regular references to the Holocaust and slavery. Activists and organisations within the vegan community have condemned this use of language. The organisation behind Dominion, an influential documentary exposing standard farming and slaughter practices in Australia, spoke out on Instagram, saying: “This is a superficial and harmful justification that does nothing but generate controversy and division without any benefit for the animals themselves.” Vegan lifestyle blogger Emma’s Ditto created an information guide on Instagram, denouncing the comparison of the exploitation of animals to the Holocaust and saying: “Don’t shout over the voice of one cause, to further another.” Many members of the vegan community are obviously keen to distance themselves from language of this kind but many worry about the impact it will have on growing the community. London-based, Indian-British vegan influencer and animal activist Moon Onyx Starr focuses on spreading positivity and inspiration through her posts on Instagram. Moon told R29: “I feel as vegans we need to be more sensitive about the kind of language we use. From my experience, the best way to drive the vegan movement forward has been to lead by example and share with people how amazing and important a vegan lifestyle is.” Vegan influencer Marta Canga, who lives in London and writes about sustainable vegan fashion and skincare, agrees. She says that such triggering language is problematic and counterproductive. “I think it’s incredibly offensive and, while I understand the need to highlight animal suffering, nowadays, animals are killed for food.” Demi Colleen, also from London, is a vegan beauty and lifestyle blogger who discusses racism and whitewashing in veganism over on her Patreon page. “Communities with veganism at the heart of their cultures need to be placed at the forefront of the movement,” she explained to R29. “White vegans must do meaningful anti-racist work alongside their vegan activism because animal liberation depends on the ending of oppression of people to truly succeed.” When vegan activists appropriate language from other communities’ traumas, it not only causes more pain but also further isolates marginalised groups both within and outside veganism. The fact that lots of the top vegan influencers in the UK are white only adds to the narrative that veganism is an elitist white movement. Mainstream veganism – sometimes referred to as ‘white veganism’ – neglects vegans of colour, perpetuating the myth that veganism was invented by white people and ignoring the roots of the movement in Buddhism, Jainism, Rastafarianism and the Black Hebrew Israelite community. Foods which have become popular over the past few years thanks to the growing number of vegans in the West mean we ‘borrow’ cooking ideas and recipes that vegans of colour have been using for years. To have to weather racist language from within their own community as well is unacceptable. Sadly, the response so far from activists criticised for their language has been unapologetic, often calling out critics and labelling them ‘speciesist’. When extremists label themselves as working for the movement, it can be immensely frustrating for other vegans. Jokes and memes about pushy and vocal vegans are already part of the internet’s rhetoric and can be a huge turn-off for anyone considering going vegan. If the appropriation of other communities’ trauma continues to gain steam within the movement, we may see more young people avoiding the lifestyle altogether due to the increasing number of negative connotations. For the vegan movement to progress it needs to be intersectional and, as Demi Colleen says, led by communities with veganism at the heart of their culture. There needs to be more discussion around the barriers to veganism and ideas about how to help vegan and vegan-curious people living in food deserts (areas where there is limited access to affordable and nutritious food). There need to be conversations about how to tackle income restrictions and cultural isolation and the many other difficult and individual issues that may prevent someone from adopting a vegan lifestyle. It’s no secret by now that going vegan can be an incredibly healthy way to live and is one of the best ways we can reduce our environmental impact. Not only does it give you a profound connection to the planet and the creatures we share it with but it can save the lives of over 10,000 animals over the course of your lifetime. Whatever a person’s reason for exploring veganism, they deserve to feel supported, welcomed and included by the vegan community while they make the difficult transition. Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Can Netflix Vegan Documentaries Make Me Quit Meat?Storytelling & Tradition In West African CookingWhat Asian Fusion Says About Asian Americans
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